| Author |
 Replies: 16 / Views: 4,023 |
|
Valued Member
United States
71 Posts |
I just received a Whitman folder as a present for Buffalo nickels, and although I have a few here and there I am a long way from filling it. I have been looking around to find a way to get a good start on filling it up. Where is a good place to purchase buffaloes at reasonable prices?  |
|
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
3540 Posts |
Start with a WTB post on this site. Post a list of what dates/mm you need. Also, there are several listed on the auction side now.
Start with lower grades, as you can always upgrade.
|
|
Valued Member
 United States
71 Posts |
Is that something I can post in the forum? I was not sure if it is allowed here. I am trying to get my number of posts up so I can check out the auctions, but I have a ways to go yet!
|
|
Pillar of the Community
1028 Posts |
You need a few more posts to start a thread in "want to buy". Right now most coin shop dealers will sell at greysheet prices, which are going to be better than anything you see offered on any coin website I've ever seen. ebay can be good, but only if you know what you are doing and how to chose your spots. I disagree with "upgrading" in general. Buy all the coins in the grades you want and if there are any dates you feel you can't afford, wait until you can. No use in buying a coin you know you're not satisfied with. Since you said "folder", as in the $3 whitman folders, I imagine you would be okay with lower grade coins as long as they aren't ugly or damaged. These are plentiful on ebay. Just watch out for "restored" coins. I won't have an argument with anyone on that topic like last time...I'll just say, if you chose to buy restored pieces to possibly fill more expensive holes, just be sure you are educated as to exactly what happens to a "restored" coin, and if that is something you want in your collection. |
|
Moderator
 United States
14463 Posts |
when I was first starting on my buffalo set, I bought a roll of mixed dates from an online dealer. There were duplicates, but I sold those and got more mixed date rolls.
Edited by Fuzzy317
12/15/2011 01:10 am
|
|
Valued Member
United States
71 Posts |
[quote]when I was first starting on my buffalo set, I bought a roll of mixed dates from an online dealer. There were duplicates, but I sold those and got more mixed date rolls.[,quote] I saw a few of those on ebay, I just wasn't sure how good or bad the deal was, and there was not too many around to compare and contrast. I have also noticed that on my roll hunts, the buffaloes and the Mercury dimes rarely show up(I haven't found one yet), while I have found quite a few wheaties. Thank you all for the help. I am still learning what all is available on this forum and I appreciate the support! Edited by firstcoin
12/15/2011 08:43 am
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
4415 Posts |
Welcome aboard, Firstcoin! It was about fifty years ago now that I started my first set of Buffalo nickels in a blue Whitman folder. I recall that the hasty feeling of trying to fill it so that I wouldn't have to stare at all those holes! I learned about using acid to raise the dates, and that was fun for awhile. Then I learned that such treatment rendered the coins virtually worthless to all but novice collectors. Gradually, I replaced those acid fillers as my budget allowed. Also, I gradually replaced the partial dates with full dates. When I bought my first "Library of Coins" folder which had plastic slides that revealed the reverse design, I started looking more closely at the buffalo horns and other detail. I then endeavored to match the grades and found myself assembling a number of sets, simultaneously .... G, VG, F and VF. In my later years, I assembled an XF-Unc set. In time, I grew as a collector, studying and learning, and here I am, decades later, still doing just that. My humble advice for newbies is to take your time, set some goals and avoid impulse buying. One footnote I'd add is that nowadays, there seems to be something of a collector market unfolding for those acid dates on ebay in particular; this, simply because there are insufficient numbers of various date, higher grade Buffs available in the marketplace as a whole. Buyers of these acid treated coins need to realize that most coin dealers will shun or pay very little for them. |
|
Valued Member
United States
136 Posts |
Welcome to the forum, Firstcoin! In my opinion, Buffalo nickels are one of the best places to start when beginning your collecting journey, as a nice date/mint set can be assemble for relatively cheap. I'd say one of the best places to start is here on this forum, as mentioned, but you'll need to work on getting your posts up to make a WTB post. Also, check out the list of members that sell on ebay as well. This way, you can find a solid set of ebay sellers that you can trust. Also, as ExoGuy said, a lot of acid-treated coins can be acquired for relatively cheap compared to their non-treated counterparts. |
|
Valued Member
United States
71 Posts |
Thank you for the warm welcomes, and I appreciate all advice! How can I tell the acid washed coins from the undamaged ones? I feel I am pretty good with details, but I am still learning to ID some cleaning damage. I am trying to learn as much as possible by looking closely through the grading posts.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
1028 Posts |
Cleaned coins are actually much more difficult to identify than acid-dated or "professionally restored" ones. Luckily, not very many Buffalo nickels were ever cleaned mutually exclusive from those restored. An acid date coin is when someone puts a strong acid (usually a product Nic-a-date) on the date area to reveal the coin's date. Here is an ebay example. Note how the date area just looks messed up. Stay far away from these coins http://www.ebay.com/itm/1913-S-Buff...em4ab1f65f55A professionally restored nickel is one where less harsh acids are used (like household vinegar or Tabasco sauce) and the entire coin is submersed in them over a greater period of time. This results in a mushy and pale look....but one where the coin's details are more visible, although the degree to which this is true depends on the process used. Here is an ebay example. Although these are more desirable than acid dated coins, most long time numismatists agree to stay far away from these as well. The altered surface of the coin will generally also be more susceptible to unattractive toning or problems if placed in an inappropriate environment. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1913-D-TYPE...em23173a428dThe gist of why this works is simple regardless of if you are using strong acids or weaker ones. These Buffalo nickels were made of both Nickel and Copper. The Nickel reacts to the acids, and thus removed form the coin, while the copper is not. Concentrations of nickel are much more prevalent in low lying areas such as crevices and fields. Those are removed first and what you have left is a coin that appears to have had it's detail "restored." If you ask me, the coin was simply burned and ruined, and what you really have left is a piece that has suffered worse alteration than any conventional cleaning. Of course, some individuals, those who sell such coins naturally, will disagree and point out the lower cost and (false) appearance of more attractive detail. Purchasing these, or any buffalo, will, in the end, simply be your preference. |
|
Valued Member
United States
213 Posts |
A complete set of circulated Buffalo nickels, not including die varieties, can be assemble for a modest price. A set in Extra-Fine (EF-40) condition at today's retail prices would cost the collector very close to $8,000. In Very-Fine (VF-20) condition, where the tip of the Bison's horn can just barely be seen, it will cost about $4,300. A nice challenge is a collection of Very-Good (VG-8) Buffalo nickels, and that can reasonably be assembled for $880 or so. As coin grades go up, so do prices. Collectors who wish to pursue uncirculated specimens with die varieties should be prepared for a significant investment of time and money. A Mint State set of Buffalo nickels, that includes the "Big-4" die varieties, will cost the collector about $281,500 in Choice Uncirculated (MS-63) condition. In Gem Uncirculated (MS-65) condition, the price jumps to $1,225,000. Clearly, collecting the best Buffalo nickels is not for little kids...... it's for the Big Kids. |
|
Valued Member
United States
71 Posts |
Thank you all very much for the the help, especially with picture examples. I have some buffaloes that I aquired with the bundle that I initially purchased that got me started collecting coins. I have several that the date and/or mint is barely or not ledgible. Is there a safe way to determine the date and mint mark? It appears to me that the Buffalo nickels seem to not hold up as well as some of the other coin types. Is this fairly accurate, or is there just alot of them around but not as many for sale? |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
2936 Posts |
firstcoin, Look me up and send me an email. I may have an offer you can't refuse... paleoguy45  |
|
Valued Member
United States
71 Posts |
Paleoguy, You have my interest peaked, But I am still new enough that I cannot send you an email at this time. I do not know how many posts it takes to no longer be listed as a "new member", but that seems to be the key. I added you to my friends list and if it is something you cannot post, I guess I will have to wait(anxiously). You can try to email me and see if it works for you.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
2936 Posts |
I can't email you either.... I'll put em aside for you and, when you lose your newbie status, we'll work out the details of getting 18 different dates (all four digits showing with no acid baths) to you for a dollar (plus shipping)... Nothing like getting a guy on track early Ho... ho... ho.... |
|
Valued Member
United States
71 Posts |
Wow! Thank you very much, I don't know what to say but Thanks!  Btw, I love the Aerosmith quote! Edited by firstcoin
12/17/2011 2:36 pm
|
| |
Replies: 16 / Views: 4,023 |
Posted 12/15/2011 12:37 am
