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CaptainFwiffo's Avatar
United States
4132 Posts
 Posted 02/26/2013  1:58 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CaptainFwiffo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The reason why black is black is because it absorbs light - that's what black is. If it scattered more light than gray, it would appear lighter than gray, by definition. That's so much camera gear, flocking material, etc. is black. There has to be something else different between those two images, or you must have them labeled backwards.
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
United States
23522 Posts
 Posted 02/26/2013  2:26 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
EXIF data is still embedded in those images, and it's identical for all of them; Cygnus obviously did this carefully. I'm therefore at a bit of a loss to understand why the black background image is lighter than the grey, unless they were shot in .jpg rather than RAW and the camera's conversion engine chose to process them differently.
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CaptainFwiffo's Avatar
United States
4132 Posts
 Posted 02/26/2013  2:32 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CaptainFwiffo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
That's why I'm wondering. I'm thinking either the images were switched inadvertently, or there was something else reflecting light (perhaps his hand was near the coin in one shot).
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Buddy's Avatar
United States
7075 Posts
 Posted 02/26/2013  6:15 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Buddy to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Perhaps it had something to do with the texture of the background. If he was using a very smooth paper it could still reflect ambient light. If the gray was a rougher texture, it would not....but I am guessing...

I am also going to go buy a package of colored construction paper (one of these days).
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52Raymo's Avatar
United States
8517 Posts
 Posted 02/26/2013  6:23 pm  Show Profile   Check 52Raymo's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add 52Raymo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Post-It Notes have multi-color pads.
Oregon coin geek.....*** GO BEAVS ! ! ! ***
New Member
United States
16 Posts
 Posted 02/27/2013  11:53 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Cygnus to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
That's why I'm wondering. I'm thinking either the images were switched inadvertently, or there was something else reflecting light (perhaps his hand was near the coin in one shot).


No, the images were not switched, altered, edited or anything else. I'm am a commercial photographer, it is what I do for a living. I have demonstrated this many times over the years for beginner photographers and in workshops around the country and it is always the same.

The distance between the camera did not change, the lights did not change, the camera was fired remotely (tethered) with me being six feet away, so I am relatively sure that I (my hands) didn't cast any color onto it.

I can only post the results. If you do not agree with the results, I can only suggest that you try it for yourself.

My setup is pretty simple.

Nikon D3 mounted on tripod and tethered to my computer.
2 Sb 900 Flashes set on either side of the coin with white shoot through umbrellas (about 2 feet away). The flashes were set to manual power 1/32 and fired with pocket wizards.

The exif info is in the images so you can see that no settings within the camera were changed.
Edited by Cygnus
02/27/2013 11:55 am
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CaptainFwiffo's Avatar
United States
4132 Posts
 Posted 02/27/2013  2:01 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CaptainFwiffo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Question: Why do you shoot at a 1250 ISO? If you're using flashes and are on a tripod, why not use your camera's native ISO?
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aladinslamp's Avatar
United States
3076 Posts
 Posted 03/29/2013  11:51 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add aladinslamp to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Has any one ever tried shoot the coin with the back round being a MIRROR? My point is, as I have done this in the past, there is no color absorbancy due to the back round color..and as far as lighting is concerned, the angles of the lighting bouncing off the mirror fill the lens but seams to leave the overall coin itself well lit, but the angle of the lighting bounces off the mirror and leaves the field around the coin some what black....
Crisp..for the back round VS the field have you ever tried it? I'm on a new computer so I don't have pic's right now to present you, just wonder if any one else has tried this?....G
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northtexas55693's Avatar
United States
14 Posts
 Posted 04/03/2013  12:29 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add northtexas55693 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thanks for the information and example pictures in this thread. It will come in handy when I start taking pictures.
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GaryN's Avatar
Canada
293 Posts
 Posted 05/24/2013  10:25 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add GaryN to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
What I use is one incondescent bulb and one fluorescent bulb to get a wide color spectrum, then try several different picture modes that my camera takes, until I get the coin color that is very close to the coin's true color.

Any other ideas, please keep them coming
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
United States
23522 Posts
 Posted 05/25/2013  05:56 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Although I generally try to set an appropriate Custom White Balance - a much easier process with only one type of light in use - it really doesn't matter because the overall tint of an off image will be in a single hue, no trouble to correct in postprocessing.
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