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Replies: 40 / Views: 10,242 |
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Valued Member
440 Posts |
Well I stole a piece of glass out of one of my wifes framed pictures on the wall; hopefully she won't notice right away. Shot at f8 with 1 daylight bulb 5600k and no diffusion. Seems to me to best represent the coloration on this coin. Opinions please. 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4809 Posts |
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
I like it; seems like an excellent representation of a subtly-toned Morgan.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
651 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5825 Posts |
Well done! Axial lighting can also be used on proof and proof-like to good advantage.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
Looks like there is a combo of direct and axial going on. Did you block the direct light from the bulb from hitting the coin? The result is good, but it may not really be axial. Do you have a pic of your axial setup?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5825 Posts |
Quote: Looks like there is a combo of direct and axial going on. Did you block the direct light from the bulb from hitting the coin? The result is good, but it may not really be axial. Do you have a pic of your axial setup? Good observation. I missed it completely. I made that mistake when I first tried axial lighting.
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Valued Member
 440 Posts |
Ray here is the pic of the axial setup. Crude I know but it is all I had to work with at the time. I used a single light source from an 8 inch aluminum Home Depot light reflector and a Sylvania Micro Mini CFL 6500K daylight bulb. I tried to bring the light in from underneath and off to the right by hand holding the light source. Attempted to get light to shine only off of light but I'm sure quite a bit creeped in on the coin also. Please feel free to be critical as I have thick skin and want honest feedback to improve my technque. What can be done to improve this? 
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Valued Member
 440 Posts |
The Jansjos were not used to provide lighting. They are only used to prop up (hold in place) the glass with the cardboard props.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
Another piece of cardboard could be used to block the direct light from the CFL hitting the coin. It's fairly important to do this since direct light will overpower the reflected light.
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Valued Member
 440 Posts |
So the cardboard (or other light blocking item) would be placed (using my pic above) on the table directly in front of the microscope stand standing a couple inches high to block any light hitting the coin from the CFL. The light would then only reflect off the glass onto the coin. I'm thinking doing this in a darkened room to eliminate ambient lighting would also help by 1. eliminating ambient light on the coin 2. being able to better monitor where the light from the CFL is being directed. Is the glass I am using the correct thickness or does it even matter? Funny part is I went back and re-read "Numismatic Photography" by Goodman after I took the above photo. I actually had an image similiar to the one described in the text under axial photography and abandoned it as it did not look good to me. So basically I may have discarded the axial image I was attempting to achieve. You know what they say: "If at first you succeed, try something harder".
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Pillar of the Community
2087 Posts |
You should get a black background ( a black towel is best and cheapest) behind the Axial set up. The set up you pictured will be suffering from light being reflected off the wall behind your copy stand. A black Towel will absorb that light. Opps just realized onee one else said effectively the same thing will leave this post up as The black towel will be more effective than cardboard
Edited by austrokiwi 03/18/2014 02:47 am
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Valued Member
 440 Posts |
austokiwi: Thanks you for the suggestion. I like the idea. I may surround the whole setup with black cloth/towel. While taking pics I noticed the silver metal from the microscope stand was reflecting light back onto the glass and used a black piece of cloth (can see it falling off in above pic) to block that reflection. I have a lot of work to do to get this right including coming up with a more secure way of propping up my glass.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5825 Posts |
Quote: You should get a black background ( a black towel is best and cheapest) behind the Axial set up. I had a similar problem caused by the polished finish on the vertical pole of my camera stand. The result was a lighter, diffuse "bar" running up the middle of my image. Fortunately my wife sews and made me a sleeve to cover the pole. An axial lighting system is quite sensitive to light sources and reflections that come from elsewhere.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
The cardboard in front of the axial setup, and the black surface behind it, have two different functions, and both are needed if you want to get the most "axial" look to the setup.
Right now, you have a couple pieces of cardboard holding up the glass at a 45-deg angle. If you replace those with a single, flat piece of cardboard, vertically-oriented, with glass taped on top edge, then you can cut a round hole in the cardboard to allow light to shine through and not go directly toward either the coin or the lens. You need to make the cardboard side that faces the setup black with paint, a towel, etc.
As Kanga says, axial systems are very sensitive to light coming in from outside. This is because you lose a lot of light from the bulb through the glass rather than reflecting, and then you lose more coming from the coin but reflecting back toward the light, so you end up with very little light getting to the lens. So any light from other sources is much more of a problem.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com
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Valued Member
 440 Posts |
Thank you for all the ideas, I'll have to wait until the weekend to try these suggestions.
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Replies: 40 / Views: 10,242 |