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Replies: 14 / Views: 2,703 |
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Valued Member
United States
167 Posts |
I to have a difficult time with DDO's. This penny has several markers that I circled, but, the same cracks are listed for several versions. Is this even a DDO?        The more I learn the less confident I feel (except for DDR's). Just because a coin is not attributed does not mean it is not an error, right? There must not be enough people who do attributions out there. I thank all of you again for the knowledge I am receiving. Deb
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
62064 Posts |
I see a lot of die cracks. Some Machine Doubling on the reverse. But no hub doubling. Still a nice original coin.
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Valued Member
 United States
167 Posts |
I'm adding another picture of the eye. It is hard to get the angle and light right but it appears to be the 1DO-002. I don't understand? I seem to be fighting with this DDO thing. How can this coin have so many of the markers and look like 1DO-002 and not be it? It has markers from several of the DDO's listed on Coppercoins. This is getting frustrating.('  ')  
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Valued Member
 United States
167 Posts |
And what's up with this funny image around his face?('  ') 
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Pillar of the Community
872 Posts |
I took at look at Wexler http://doubleddie.com/395701.htmlI'm looking this one over, and 002 might be a match. I can look at this one in a couple of hours. Don't confuse yourself. Remember - if you find ONE marker that matches, its a start. From there, look for the rest for that particular coin. If not more match, that coin could have been transitioning from say a MDS stage to a LDS stage coin, and markers may be in a flux of change. For Coppercoins, check the all the links.... EDS, MDS and LDS if available. I personally do NOT rely on coppercoins, I use Wexler, and CONECA master listing first and CC as a last resort. Problem is, once markers change, and people see what appear to be a "eyelid" DDO, they instantly think its another version when all it more than likely happened is the die received some maintenance and it changed the obverse die markers. I like to do the attributions, but they require a boatload of examples. They also need all 4 types of die states - eds,mds,lds and vlds - which very few attributors have all of them, and they seem not to share too often. Eyeball doubling. personally I think its simply a die chip, but, hey, call it like you see it. I don't care to look for them what so ever. But If it can be proven, I guess it potentially can be a sale for some one. To each their own ! = Þ I know about diecracks ! I am fighting two rolls of 1973-D and its being an adventure to try to separate and then match up a die crack with a potential RPM. Give me a few hours and I will help if I can.
Edited by Collector-Corner 05/13/2014 12:46 pm
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Pillar of the Community
872 Posts |
The 1943 year isn't one that's easy to decipher. You have a coin with multiple die cracks and have to remember - die cracks, when in multiples boil down to one simple thing. Process of elimination. For instance, if I go to http://varietyvista.com/Variety%20M...s%201943.htmProcess of Elimination using CONECA. This will take a few posts. One die crack at a time; ======= Die crack from E of EPU South-Southwest to C of CENT - 1943 / DDR-004 / 4-R-VI (Die crack is a match - need to see if they list others)Description: Light extra thickness on E PLURIBUS UNUM, both wheat ears and stems, and AMERICA That was the only one listed on CONECA for the "E" diecrack. Many die states aren't listed. ======= Lets do the "W" in WE die crack next ! Light die crack to rim through W of WE 1943 / DDO-002 / 2-O-IV+VIIIThat was the only one listed on CONECA for the "WE" die crack. Many die states aren't listed. ======= Die Crack from Rim, in Northwest direction to E in LIBERTY, I did NOT find a CONECA listing that had that die crack. ======= Die crack from Tie area (near lapels) to rim - Die crack Southeast across lapel to rim 1943 / DDO-017 / 17-O-IVDESCRIPTION: Medium spread South as an extra eyelid - Die crack across lapel to rim - - " LMDS 1943 / DDR-014 / 14-R-V-CW from K-7DESCRIPTION: Strong spread on UNUM and Right wheat tip with medium spread on E PLURIBUS, ONE, T of CENT, ES of STATES, and last A of AMERICA ======= No listing for die crack from rim to the "3" in the Date on CONECA ======= So far, none of these die cracks line up to support each other. The BAD thing about the mint Die designs is that when a die starts to fail, they generally fail in the same location due to the way the die was designed. Over time they just seem to fail in same locations, and it makes it tough to match up at times. CC listing of "002" doesn't cross reference to anything, so who knows what is up with that listing, or how many examples they have and of what die state. With your example being a potential Late Die State (LDS) or Very Late Die State (VLDS) the listings are slim pickings on trying to find an absolute match to the references that are currently listed. Eyelid DDO's aren't my cup of Tea. I typically don't even look for them. You'll have to look at the listings I provided above and see if any other markers are available for each die crack on the CONECA link I provided above. Since you believe it could be a "eyelid DDO" you can also look on CONECA just for an eyelid listing, but there are not many listed for the 1943-P year on CONECA.
Edited by Collector-Corner 05/13/2014 10:32 pm
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
62064 Posts |
CONECA 002 has doubling under the (From the disk) Description: Medium spread on lower RTY of LIBERTY.No doubled eye lid. Just under the "RTY" on LIBERTY. CONECA 004 Light spread on LIB of LIBERTY and IN.Just on the "LIB" no doubled eyelid. CONECA 014 Light spread on date, IN GOD WE TRUST, and LIBERTY with medium spread on 3 of date. DDO & DDR with die change. Not from this die. CONECA 017 Medium spread South as an extra eyelid.South of the eyelid. The coin is a normal coin with die cracks. Matching markers mean nothing if the hub doubling is not present. Keep in mind this year they used steel planchets on steel dies. The die broke down a lot faster because of the harder planchets. They cracked, chipped, wore excessively, suffered clashes more often. It was just the way it was that year. Working backwards on matching markers on coins that are not a variety, mean nothing. Find the variety first, then the markers.
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Valued Member
 United States
167 Posts |
Ok guys, I'm not going to bother you with all this business of coins not listed. I did think it was a DDO-002 originally and that is why I posted the coin to get confirmation. I guess there are some things I don't understand fully. What is a "Medium spread on lower RTY of LIBERTY"? I know I have the coin in hand and that puts you at a disadvantage. There is a die clash at the throat in addition to the other die crack markers listed on Coneca DDO-002. The date looks like the one listed on Coppercoins DDO-OO2 with the exception of the crack being not as long through the numbers. If both sites have different references for the same DDO-002 what am I to think? It is not my intention to stir up a bunch of controversy over something that is not. I thought this coin was the variety, hence, my post. I really appreciate all the help you give, your patience and expertise! I may be in over my head as all I really wanted to do was to learn so that I don't cheat myself or look stupid when I sell them. I am not a collector like you by any means. I am going to start listing these coins on ebay and if you think they are worth anything for your collections, you are invited to bid. You are also invited to comment as I do consider you the authority for coin research. That said, thank you so much for all your time! I am grateful you are here. Deborah
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Pillar of the Community
872 Posts |
No problem Deb, I listed the die cracks because those were identified by you. I understand that some of them didn't line up with the eyelid theory, and the die cracks are markers which could lead to another variety. When I find a variety in rolls or bags, and that die crack or die scratch, chip or otherwise is obviously on all coins with the variety, its easier to spot them and put then aside. I am here to help when I can. Remember If coppercoins doesn't cross reference to CONECA or Wexler, it may not be the same die or variety. No controversy from me, I purposely looked up all those die cracks, and I was like, eh, it would not hurt to list them since I have the data in front of me to show you where they might match up. Sometimes it is very possible for a person to have a con in hand, think it is one type of variety and then find out it is slightly different. My process was to show the process of elimination, and to see if any two, three or four die cracks would line up to the same variety. Unfortunately they did not. Its kind of Ironic, but I was going to ask you about the dieclash and thought - NAH - she would have looked for that and mentioned it already....hehehehehehe A Medium Spread is a very light separation or doubling of the RTY. It may look just a tad wider or show some doubling in respect to what a doubled die would look like. I don't know how many of the 1943-P cents you have, but you can try to look at a couple and get a general idea of what a normal or thinner date/ LIBERTY should look like. It may be a bit tougher if you do not have a lot of them to look through, or if they don't come from the same die pair. I take "medium, Light or Heavy thickness" with a grain of salt and shake my head. Even after 30+ years that type of statement is speculative and open to interpretation to the person holding the coin. Its a blanket statement to say, hey, there is something amuck here, but its not quite a true DDO or DDR. I started a long time ago on circulated coins, and quickly seen my frustrations build with lack of markers and hard to determine coins. For the last 25 years or so, I buy only BU coins so they are easier to attribute and the markers have a better chance at survival. Not to mention, the value of the find can be significantly increased. I totally understand the frustrations that go along with Cherry Picking through coins, All I can add is, I have been there and done that ! Let me know if you want to pursue this coin farther. If I have the time, I will. Its all about passing the education along, I am one to help til the end, not simply shooting down attempts. Your doing fine Deb, some of the Lincoln Years are easier than others. Some of them are just really tough.
Edited by Collector-Corner 05/14/2014 3:24 pm
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Valued Member
 United States
167 Posts |
Thank you Gary. I do have some more 43's to compare with and will do that after this coming work weekend. I will start a new post with the comparisons to help me solve this coin dilemma in my mind. Or do you think I should continue the comparisons with this posting? It is easy to see why less circulated coins are easier, that's for sure! Thanks Again, Deb
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
62064 Posts |
Deb: Here is another die listed on coppercoins with the light spread below the "RTY": http://www.coppercoins.com/lincoln/...ie_state=mdsThis one I found from a purchase from ebay that was supposed to be a RPM and it wasn't. But it was a doubled die. So I still made out. I would like to show images, but they are copyrighted, so I can't. I would recommend you get the CONECA e-files disks on the wheat doubled dies and RPMs. They do have one out now for Memorial cents as well, but just the RPMs so far. Different sites use different sets of numbering. Crawford, Wexler, Coppercoins and CONECA. So you have to know which one you have used as the numbering system. Most are easy to figure out but when the numbers are not displayed correctly with all the numbers, dashes and letters, they can be confusing. I forgot to add the cherry pickers number systems. (They had one and then updated to a different one.) Coppercoins notes the crossover numbers, but not all. That is an extra large task to figure these all out. But until there is a UPC for the varieties that makes them all the same, we are on our own.
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Pillar of the Community
872 Posts |
Quote: Thank you Gary. I do have some more 43's to compare with and will do that after this coming work weekend. I will start a new post with the comparisons to help me solve this coin dilemma in my mind. Or do you think I should continue the comparisons with this posting? I think it is best to start a new post for each coin. I think it allows closure, and its less confusing where we stand, and which coin we are talking about. If you have some that are relatively close, say, RPM's that are from same year, maybe put them together, but, once one is done, another can be posted. It will open up the chances that others may already have the same coin in hand. Attribution can be a pain, let alone trying to get pictures right and finally posting them up. Its a process thats for sure. I have to be in the right mindset to tackle the amount of RPM's I have here, and its a big hill to climb. Its all a process of elimination. One step at a time. Its a great Idea to figure out what the issue MIGHT be, and then look for one marker, then another. If one is found it could be a match, if the variety is showing strong enough. Honestly, its simple as that. The hard part is identifying the variety or error and finding the markers or matching up the picture of the variety/error to a reliable source. Thats where the time and effort can be spent. Yeah, I didn't mention taking the hours and hours of going through the rolls/boxes of cents to find one of them, on purpose. herhehehee. My son is now out of college and we are going to tackle alot this summer. We might be able to get all of these listed in the shopping cart and be ready for the fall. Yay. = ) If you run into any older coins, such as Half Cents in VF+ or better condition let me know via PM/email.
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Valued Member
 United States
167 Posts |
You guys are great! I work Thurs-Sun so I get little done then except research. What is Cherry Picker's exactly? Perhaps you could start a new topic for that? I will look into buying the disc if they are not to pricey. I'll check ebay then Amazon. Have a good weekend. It is actually suppose to get warm here by then. Almost time for gardening! Can't wait! Thanks Again, Deb
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Pillar of the Community
872 Posts |
Quote: What is Cherry Picker's exactly? Perhaps you could start a new topic for that? Cherry Pickers Guide is a two volume set from Whitman Publishing. It is authored by Bill Fivaz and J.T. Stanton. I'd WAIT on this as the volume curently out has pricing issues ! PLUS, the CP guide is NOT all inclusive. They do NOT list every variety known for all coins. They list some of the better ones to look for, but not all. People refer to "cherry picking" when it comes to finding a good source of coins, and picking out the best, to include any varieties. I simply use the CONECA master listing, and wexler for the most part. Both are free.
Edited by Collector-Corner 05/15/2014 07:59 am
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
62064 Posts |
I've never owned one of these as the prices they give are way out of line with what the market is paying. They seemed to make it appeal to those that are looking for the fast buck. When they find something that matches, then the reality of the market price hits them and they feel like someone is offering too little for their coins.
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Replies: 14 / Views: 2,703 |
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