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AU 58 Vs. MS 62

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Valued Member

United States
121 Posts
 Posted 06/13/2014  8:34 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add ziskindd to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
I learn a lot here, but is there a place where there are high grade photos of MS60 vs. AU 58 to detect the "rub?" My LCS explained it to me as taking a BU modern coin and walk around with it a week in your pocket. I still cant see the breaks in luster. perhaps I have chosen the wrong hobby !

He also referred to submitting coins in these grades as playing the plastic lottery.
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968 Posts
 Posted 06/13/2014  8:45 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add chasingtailbar to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
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Dave H's Avatar
United States
1436 Posts
 Posted 06/13/2014  9:07 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Dave H to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
ziskindd,

Don't give up so easily. It takes time to learn the hobby . Every collector had to start at the beginning, and we've all made mistakes along the way.

In addition to Photograde, which chasingtailbar linked, there is also a book titled "Making the Grade" which shows in color, the wear areas of each coin. I personally don't have it yet, but plan on getting one very soon. I have attached a link to one site that sells the book

http://www.amosadvantage.com/scotto...tegory=CNWGG
Edited by Dave H
06/13/2014 9:08 pm
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trout1105's Avatar
Australia
7096 Posts
 Posted 06/13/2014  9:16 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add trout1105 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
He also referred to submitting coins in these grades as playing the plastic lottery.


WHY
AU58 and MS62 are totally different grades .
If your dealer is unable to tell the difference I suggest finding a dealer that can
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KenKat's Avatar
United States
4085 Posts
 Posted 06/13/2014  9:23 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add KenKat to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
It is always harder to judge based on photos vs. in hand just because you have less chance to see the coin under different lighting angles. Each type of coin also has high points which tend to show the rub first. Some I know, some I don't. A good grading book can really help too.
Valued Member
United States
121 Posts
 Posted 06/13/2014  11:31 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add ziskindd to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I think he meant that with these "sliders" some times a grader will give it a 60 or 61 and sometimes the "rub" and break in luster is evident, yielding a 58. I think it speaks more to the grader than anything else.
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jayman1970's Avatar
United States
274 Posts
 Posted 06/14/2014  07:53 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jayman1970 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
ziskindd, you are correct with the lottery assumption. When submitting high AU-low MS coins it is like playing the lottery. You could crack out a AU-58 coin and resubmit it with a good chance of receiving a MS grade or vice versa. How can you expect any dealer to always know the difference between high AU-low MS, when the TPG's cant.
Rest in Peace
dave700x's Avatar
United States
10625 Posts
 Posted 06/14/2014  07:59 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add dave700x to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
with jayman. It also depends on the date, mint mark and series. If the coin in question is a conditional rarity it will more than likely not get the bump up to low MS. (unless you are a high volume dealer )
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kanga's Avatar
United States
5825 Posts
 Posted 06/14/2014  08:10 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add kanga to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Dealers and collectors are gravitating towards preferring AU-58 coins over MS-60, -61 or -62.
In general if you can get a -58 for less than the other grades I mentioned DO IT.
An AU-58 is a MS-63 or -64 (-65?) with just a touch of rub that most collectors can't detect.
MS-60, -61 or -62 are UNC coins that have too many distracting marks to make -63 (or better).
A -58 looks better than those AND often costs less (but watch out, dealers are catching on).
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matthewvincent's Avatar
United States
3486 Posts
 Posted 06/14/2014  09:58 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add matthewvincent to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I prefer XF40 to AU58 coins and dislike MS.
In the Barber Series (ALL FOUR!) it is often easier to get a MS .. but
high grade circulated examples are difficult to find.
Often, an AU coin looks a lot better than an MS. Certain dates just do not exist in AU.
But I keep looking.

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Jaobler's Avatar
United States
6384 Posts
 Posted 06/14/2014  11:54 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Jaobler to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Regarding the "carry a BU modern coin in your pocket for a week" theory: the luster on clad coins seems much more durable than that for silver coins. I find that the dulling of luster from slight friction is a lot easier to spot on silver (and gold, for that matter!).

If you are willing to sacrifice a low-value BU silver like a 1964 Roosevelt dime or Washington quarter it might be a useful exercise. Take some pictures first, then carry the coin and photograph it day by day. It might make a very interesting thread!

There is really no value difference for coins like these in BU vs. AU anyway.
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johntookit's Avatar
United States
589 Posts
 Posted 06/14/2014  6:52 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add johntookit to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Watch this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Apn-kYEl-Xw

Can you tell which is AU-58 and MS-60
AU-58-Vs.-MS-62

AU-58-Vs.-MS-62
AU-58-Vs.-MS-62
AU-58-Vs.-MS-62

Now which one is MS or AU
AU-58-Vs.-MS-62
AU-58-Vs.-MS-62
AU-58-Vs.-MS-62
AU-58-Vs.-MS-62
1913 is the MS and the 1915 is the AU
WLH MS. Barber dime AU. Seated Liberty AU. Standing liberty MS.
Hope this helps.
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