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Help With "Pl" Morgan Dollars

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Valued Member

United States
320 Posts
 Posted 08/02/2014  9:56 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add Ant76 to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
I wanted to just say thanks real quick to all the members who have advised me so far.

I have decided to not only complete, but upgrade certain coins in the Morgan dollar set with PL coins. I just love the mirror finishes on those coins. There were several already graded with the PL deaignation. My thought was to try and get at least one PL for every year. The other mint marks can be regular coins. Since the lowest grade is 64, I'm using that as my starting grade. I have already purchased 6 on ebay over the last 2 days. I think this will make for a fun challenge. Any thoughts?
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dave700x's Avatar
United States
10625 Posts
 Posted 08/02/2014  10:03 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add dave700x to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Feel free to post pictures and/or auction links.
Valued Member
United States
320 Posts
 Posted 08/02/2014  10:15 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Ant76 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply


Help-With-

I got these today. I had such a hard time figuring out the photo uploading, can you imagine what it would be like for auction links lol. I paid between $150-$170 each. I'm using pcgs iphone app for prices. They have a section just for pl and dmpl. The problem is most sellers are asking 3-4 times the price that pcgs says they are worth. I was lucky 10 min ago. I offered a seller $160 for a 1885 ms64. He had it for $250 and accepted my offer.
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CherreePicker's Avatar
440 Posts
 Posted 08/02/2014  10:15 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CherreePicker to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
United States
23522 Posts
 Posted 08/02/2014  10:16 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Any thoughts?


I think you've caught the fever and are moving too quickly, to be frank. Can you accurately grade a Morgan and differentiate between regular coins, PL's and DMPL's? Have you an accurate pricing database? If not, you have to rely on somebody else's opinion of the coin and its' value. And even slabbed coins vary wildly in quality; every long-time collector has seen dogs in TPG slabs.

There's a reason for the universal saying "Knowledge is King" in numismatics. The differences between two coins which could amount to thousands of dollars in value are very subtle, do not follow an objective ruleset, and can only be learned through experience.

So I worry for you.
Valued Member
United States
320 Posts
 Posted 08/02/2014  10:29 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Ant76 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
To answer your question no, I can not accuratly grade a morgan. I didnt even know that is was called a Morgan dollar till a few weeks ago.

Can I tell the difference? I think so maybe. They have a almost mirror finish to them.

Yes, I rely on price sheets and the knowledge of guys like yourselves to tell me what they are. Which I guess could leave me very vulnerable to be taken advantage of

Knowledge is power! And I'm trying to learn. I rely on the holder and what it says. Without that, I have no clue. But I know this, I only like a pure white coin with no color. So far, the few I bought are that. Actually, the next one I was going to bid on was an 1879 pr55. Its on ebay now. Its at $999 by a seller fatdaddy or something like that. I welcome all advice

Yes I think I have the fever. Probably as bad as when I got fever on safari in africa. But this is a good fever
Pillar of the Community
968 Posts
 Posted 08/02/2014  10:32 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add chasingtailbar to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Yeah, I'd slow down. It's nice to be ambitious, but a lot of the coins I bought in my first couple years of collecting, slabbed or not, have been relegated to the closet (where I store my cheap, bulk crap) instead of the safe deposit box or at-home safe, because they're simply not all there for the money I paid. I'll probably consign them to an auction house (and I almost NEVER consign my coins) so I don't have to be reminded of the thousands of dollars I wasted buying subpar coins.

Learn about the series, as much as you can, then refine your eye for quality coins. It takes a long time to really learn how to discern the great coins from the mediocre coins.
Valued Member
United States
320 Posts
 Posted 08/02/2014  10:36 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Ant76 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thanks so much for the suggestions. I was going to take a grading course in arizona for 3 days just to learn a little better about condition. I study photograde book every day. Ill get there one day
Rest in Peace
dave700x's Avatar
United States
10625 Posts
 Posted 08/02/2014  10:36 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add dave700x to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Personally, I would pass on that PR55. The obverse is very distracting for a proof strike. I would spend a few more dollars for an un-impaired example.
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 Posted 08/02/2014  10:38 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add chasingtailbar to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I don't play with problem coins, by personal policy. I'd rather have a hole in my set than a coin with an issue. That includes impaired and/or low grade proofs.

It's better to have one fantastic $2,000 coin than ten $200 coins, imho.
Edited by chasingtailbar
08/02/2014 10:39 pm
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
United States
23522 Posts
 Posted 08/02/2014  10:57 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Ill get there one day


Yes, you will, and I'm thinking that with your relatively strict standards you haven't gone wrong yet (even though we haven't seen your purchases).

One thing to keep in mind: Grading from images has significant differences to grading in-hand. If you're already a good hand grader, you're going to undergrade digital images. Digital photography, and the bright light required for it, exaggerates every mark on a coin. Color is very difficult to get right, and is the one thing even decent photographers can screw up. Look to the background of the image; see if you can discern what its' exact color should be and how close the actual image is. The closer the background, the closer the coin is to in-hand look.

Size also matters. I would not attempt to grade an image showing the coin less than 600-650px in diameter, and at that size I'll only guess within a couple each way for MS coins. 800 pixels is OK, but only for high-quality photography. A large-but-poor image is actually worse than a smaller, clearer one.

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SsuperDdave's Avatar
United States
23522 Posts
 Posted 08/02/2014  11:05 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Now, for PL/DMPL.

Both faces of a coin must show equal reflectivity for the PL/DMPL designation - a PL obverse is a PL coin even if the reverse is DMPL. This is the standard I use: For PL, a coin must clearly reflect 12pt newspaper type at a distance of 4 inches. For DMPL, that distance must be at least 8 inches. You have examples to compare to - see how that works for yourself.
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Matteproof's Avatar
Korea, Republic Of
1881 Posts
 Posted 08/03/2014  02:03 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Matteproof to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I didn't start buying any coins until I was a couple of months into numismatics, when I could have bought coins.

It's important to learn before you buy anything. You need to study about Morgan dollars, learn to grade them, get more knowledge about the series and so on before you buy anything. I am also worried for you.

Get a Red Book, and learn more about American coinage. Although that is a bad source of coin market prices, but the info in the book is some real helpful stuff. Then, maybe you will discover something better, more attractive to collect. It sounds like you haven't explored much about other coins, and that's why you jumped right into Morgans which are the extent of your numismatic knowledge at this point.
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Joe2007's Avatar
United States
3843 Posts
 Posted 08/03/2014  02:12 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Joe2007 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
You might enjoy reading this ......

http://www.pcgs.com/books/silver-dollars/
Valued Member
United States
320 Posts
 Posted 08/03/2014  07:38 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Ant76 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I bought the RedBook thursday. I understand everything you guys are saying. I was always a guy who swings for the fences. I always attacked a challenge head on once I put my heart and mind into something. I know how special the morgan series was to my grandfather. It had to be, he had more of them than anything else. Thats why I decided I'm going to continue acquiring them and complete the set. Thankfully he already has several of the very tough ones needed like the 95 and 4-93s. I will go slow and take everyones advice. The only thing id like to do now is get a pl coin for every year if available. I posted a pic of only 3 ms64pl coins that I purchased. Theres a few more on the way that when I receive them I will post. I just thought it would be cool to have a pl coin for every year. I was up late looking at how many coins are needed to complete the set. I think I'm correct at 106 including the 1878 versions? I think thats a great and fun challenge. Id like to get my 2 sons involved.

I pick coins with much scrutiny. No toning (sorry guys) they have to be white and shiney. And I will not buy a raw coin. I purchased an 1881 and 1883 cc's raw and they were fake. The guy on ebay said he was from the midwest, but the package originated from china. ebay helped and got my money back. And I do know slabs are faked too. I'm very careful of who I buy from. High feedback or a reputable coin shop.
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CherreePicker's Avatar
440 Posts
 Posted 08/03/2014  07:39 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CherreePicker to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
"This is the standard I use: For PL, a coin must clearly reflect 12pt newspaper type at a distance of 4 inches. For DMPL, that distance must be at least 8 inches. You have examples to compare to - see how that works for yourself."

I think the OP is only buying slabbed coins. While this type of reflectivity "test" works well for raw coins the slab itself can impair this process.
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