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1859, Another One With Open Questions.

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 Posted 01/07/2015  8:15 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add 47P7 to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
here is another with some mysteries .
perhaps someone can help?
thanks

1859,-Another-One-With-Open-Questions.
1859,-Another-One-With-Open-Questions.
1859,-Another-One-With-Open-Questions.
1859,-Another-One-With-Open-Questions.
1859,-Another-One-With-Open-Questions. 1859,-Another-One-With-Open-Questions.
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 Posted 01/07/2015  8:35 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add viper to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I do believe that on the Haxby catalog your Rev. is J22 with D/C at leaf 6 and 8 and the Obv. is 64a with the DP T in Gratia and the DP D in Canada.

MG
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 Posted 01/07/2015  9:15 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add okiecoiner to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The other markers are not there for a 9/6 or DP#5. Too bad it is so worn or we might be able to tell more.
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 Posted 01/07/2015  9:32 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add 47P7 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thanks so far fellows. Maybe others have some ideas also.
Oakie, I know you are an expert in these, so your input carries a lot of weight.
maybe I should try some more close ups? am not sure if it will help.
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 Posted 01/08/2015  06:56 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add okiecoiner to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
47: You have a real puzzler here and I may or may not have seen one like it. It would be nice to se the coin in-hand to work around the anomalies that are there. I, personally, do not use the Haxby die-tracking system since I use a short description of what I see rather than assign numbers to '59 varieties that I research. I think that you are using the term "expert" a little loosely when you describe my fixation on Victoria Cent varieties, but I have spent over 30 years working with them, starting with Zoell's pamphlets from the 60's through Griffin's work in the 80's & 90's and then to my own tweeking of what I found. The following are some binoc shots at 60X of both the DP#5 (R2b) and the 9/6 (or 9 over inverted 9) which which your coin some attributes of both. All of these shots are old and may be mine or someone else's image, but it gets the general idea down. I do not know how attachments are displayed on this site, whether the first one I attach ends up first or last on the post, but you should be able to figure it out with the legend.

I will say a couple things first: I have not seen (or recorded) a DP#5 Reverse married to any other Obverse other than the mangled D/C's at the R in Regina (among other markers for that Obverse). Likewise, I have never seen a 9/6 type(there are at least 2 Reverses) overpunch that did not have the finite vine break at leaf 2. Since all 1859's had the final digit handpunched in and it took 2-4 smacks with the hammer to make a deep enough impression into the working die, you may have a combination of the 2 overpunches on a different Reverse. To start with, all of the raw '59 working dies had just the "185" impressed into the die from the hub. After each blow with the hammer to add the 9 to the date, the punch was hardened and the die annealed(softened) so the floor worker didn't smack it 1, 2, 3 like pounding in a nail. There could have been hours, days or weeks between the indivdual blows. Since the 9 and 6 digit punches were the same (just turned 180 degrees upside down), a liquid lunch or distraction or newbie wielding the hammer may have produced the single blow that resulted in one of the 2, 3, 4 punches needed to complete the impression showing to be upside down. I will add that, on many of the working dies that did not have the 9's directly on top of each other (the digits are actually very small in reality), they polished off the mistakes that showed outside of the outline of the digit. I'll say MOST, not all of them, tried to correct the outside-showing misalignment by polishing. Those underpunches showing inside the digit were usually left alone.

As can be seen in the following attachment, the DP#5 (R2b)is just a hi/lo overpunch with the inside arc of the upper loop showing inside the digit, with what-have-been the underpunch tail polished off the die. Normally all you will see is the underpunch arc in the upper part of the loop of the 9 but, on higher grade examples of early pre-worn dies, you can see some of the underpunch below the final 9 where polishing didn't remove it all flush.

1859,-Another-One-With-Open-Questions.


Now, the 9/6 is a different animal. This is an overlay shot to show what you would see on the coin, with the underpunch 6 showing within the confines of the final 9. I think that the arc that shows is the outside(upper edge) of what would be the lower loop of the 6 as well as what fills the gap between the tail and the loop of the final 9.

1859,-Another-One-With-Open-Questions.

Next is a sideways shot of what an actual coin looks like (I couldn't get it rightside up and have the glare or resolution correct).



1859,-Another-One-With-Open-Questions.

Your coin seems to be a combination of the two on an entirely different reverse die and caused by a wild-swinger with the hammer.Your "E" marker I think is definitely a hi/lo underpunch just like a DP#5. The flag or pennant-like impression (your B) at the top left is another underpunch that is not only the upper part of the 6, but also lo/hi overpunch of the 9. The space between the B and the E is too wide to have come from the same hand-punch strike, so it had to be 2 separate whacks. The stuff that shows outside the outline of the final 9 is just misalignment between the consecutive blows. The guy must have had a 3-beer lunch.

I may have seen a coin like this personally sometime in the past, but may have passed it by or didn't save it because it didn't have all the proper markers to fit into one of my classification niches. I'm pretty sure that someone in the past showed essentially the same coin on one of the other coin sites some time (years) ago (CCRS?).

I hope that all these words have helped clear up a few of the mysteries, but I may just have fogged it up more. I'd love to see a more crisp example to see for sure what it is.

1859,-Another-One-With-Open-Questions.
Edited by okiecoiner
01/08/2015 07:04 am
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 Posted 01/08/2015  07:31 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SHAFTA9a to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
I think that you are using the term "expert" a little loosely....

Well.. okie I just read your great post on the 1859 Large cents and, I would say.. you are a excellent 'expert' in the knowledge of this coin..
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 Posted 01/08/2015  08:43 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add viper to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
47P7 here is a pic of mine! If you compare your coin to mine I believe that they will be the same

Hope this helps!
MG



1859,-Another-One-With-Open-Questions.

1859,-Another-One-With-Open-Questions.

1859,-Another-One-With-Open-Questions.

1859,-Another-One-With-Open-Questions.

1859,-Another-One-With-Open-Questions.

1859,-Another-One-With-Open-Questions.

1859,-Another-One-With-Open-Questions.

1859,-Another-One-With-Open-Questions.
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 Posted 01/08/2015  08:59 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add okiecoiner to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Viper: With the re-engraving of the vine break at leaf 2, it looks like the same Reverse die, only with more wear on the working die due to either later strikes or mor polishing. It appears to be the same Obverse as well, especially when you look at in hand and look at the C and D in Canada. These shots are from a well-defined 9/6 (ICCS) that shows the inner arc nicely, but it has the D/C on the first lobe of leaf of leaf 12 to the denticle. This D/C, people have called the "type 1" 9/6 and usually shows very well inside the upper loop of the 9 as well as in the gap. The "type 2", which does not have the D/C at 12 usually is very faint in upper loop (if at all) but shows well in the gap between the tail and the loop of the 9. Here are the C & D of Canada from the 9/6 type 1:

1859,-Another-One-With-Open-Questions.

1859,-Another-One-With-Open-Questions.
Edited by okiecoiner
01/08/2015 09:19 am
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 Posted 01/08/2015  09:17 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add viper to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Yes and this is the 9 over inverted 9 #2 and you can still see the circle inside the 9

MG

1859,-Another-One-With-Open-Questions.

1859,-Another-One-With-Open-Questions.

1859,-Another-One-With-Open-Questions.

1859,-Another-One-With-Open-Questions.
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 Posted 01/08/2015  11:23 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add torgemco to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
great thread !!
thank you
when trying to discern
anomalies or varieties
may I ask what power device you might use ?
I have a few of these and
will buy a loupe if you think it
would do the trick for me.
thanks in advance
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 Posted 01/08/2015  2:07 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add okiecoiner to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
My opinion is that, if you can't see it with your naked eye or less than 5X magnification, it is not a worthy variety. To really see specific markers on some varieties, I use a 16 or 20X loupe, preferably unlighted to eliminate glare. For binocs, I use 20X or 60X for close photos.

With enough magnification, every single letter or digit on a Victoria Cent would look like it was repunched. I also do not consider die cracks, filled dies, or broken vines or stems to be any type of variety because they were made with faulty machinery or tools. Likewise, Cuds, strike-throughs, planchet cracks, etc are errors and not varieties. Again, that is what I consider all these different types of anomalies. To a purist, every single working die or different die marriage is a variety, as well as anything that happens during its life.
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 Posted 01/08/2015  3:27 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add 47P7 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Torgemco
if you can not see it with a 7-10 times lupe, it is probably not there.
If you buy a lupe, check the bay. there are some which have 5x and in addition another 15x I believe. they fold together and are black in color. using both together you get 20x.
cost around 10 bucks. get two, you will need them. lighted lupes ar not so ideal as Oakie said. you will be better off using a small LED flashlight or other source.
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 Posted 01/09/2015  7:51 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add colonialtokens to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

The initial Vicky of this thread is a relatively common lower grade
ensample of Dr. Haxby's Obverse 64A1 / Reverse J22. The mark atop
the nine is a characteristic die-clash of the throat and chin area.

doug
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 Posted 01/10/2015  05:28 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add okiecoiner to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Doug: I wouldn't think that a clash from there would show up on the 9 and it's not the right shape. Who knows? I usually don't pay much attention to clashes.
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 Posted 01/10/2015  09:14 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add colonialtokens to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Throat and chin clash marks are commonly found about the 9.
Some varieties are found having five and six superimposed
clashes.

doug
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 Posted 01/10/2015  09:22 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add okiecoiner to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Yes, I have found quite a few around the 9, just not exactly there and that defined. I'll do some more superimposed study, but I still think that it is an underpunch
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