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 Replies: 15 / Views: 1,782 |
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Valued Member
United States
245 Posts |
First off, about how much money would it cost me to put together a set of Mercury dimes in AU condition versus a set in BU condition? Second question, when doing these coin sets, is Dansco the way to go or is Whitman any good? I've got a set of high AU/M state Roosevelt dimes in an old school Whitman album that someone told me should be transferred to a better album using white gloves to handle the coins. *** Moved by Staff to a more appropriate forum. ****** Edited by Staff to clarify topic title. Titles are important! *** |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4085 Posts |
Because of the key dates, you are looking at $10k+ in AU and probably $20k+ in BU.
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Valued Member
United States
486 Posts |
and if you're looking for white coins, something like a dansco where you see both sides is better because in a folder the reverses tone black overtime because they're up against the cardboard.
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Valued Member
 United States
245 Posts |
Oh crap, never mind. I don't have that kind of money. I had no idea the Mercury set in AU was that high.
So the Dansco album is the ticket or Whitman?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1189 Posts |
Maybe you can do the 40's in AU/BU and the others in lesser condition. As KenKat the few keys would really cost a lot in the conditions you want.
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Valued Member
United States
424 Posts |
The Dansco albums are kind of the standard that everything else is compared to. There are some very comparable albums that some collectors like to use. If the dimes are in an old style Whitman folder then get them into something better ASAP. A new Dansco Roosevelt dime album should cost about $25 from an online coin supplier (Google Dansco coin album, there are several sites) or about $32 plus at a local coin store. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
997 Posts |
If you do decide to do such a collection and spend that kind of money I would suggest collecting them in certified slabs. They will protect the coins better so that the AU's of today will be AU tomorrow. Perhaps use a book to keep track of the collection by putting in a placeholder for each slabbed coin you acquire.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4085 Posts |
You could potentially do a "mostly AU" (and possibly "some BU") set for around $1500-2000 maybe (?) with about half of that amount for the key and semi key dates in lower grades.
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Valued Member
United States
124 Posts |
 PCGS price guide lists a complete date/mint mark set in 40 (without major varieties) as valued at around $8,500. The same set in 60 is listed at $19,600. (I'm not saying that the PCGS price guide is the best estimate of price, but the difference between the two prices listed gives you an idea of what you can do if you lower your grade expectations just a little). Why not shoot for BU or AU in 1934 and after, and EF or VF from 1916-1931? I currently am saving up for the 1916D (the last one I need for a complete set including major varieties) and for that one I'll probably have to settle for VG or F. Not all of my set grades as high as I would like, but I can always buy better coins when I can afford them.   ] |
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Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21788 Posts |
I am a coin collector, and not one who needs to aspire to always have the best. Leave that to others. The coins temselves, and not their best condition is my motivation.
For me, a nice balanced set in EF would be just right, with not too much money spent.
When it comes to storage I would not be too keen on putting a nice set of dimes worth more than a few hundreds of dollars, in a 'press in', 'see one side only' type of album.
For investment, I would be far better of accelerating my mortgage payments, and saving the interest on the loan. You don't pay any tax on money saved in this way.
Edited by sel_69l
12/30/2015 6:22 pm
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Valued Member
United States
245 Posts |
You can also collect a short set from 1941 to 1945 in all mints in high condition and that is quite popular.
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Valued Member
United States
398 Posts |
Whatever option you go for purchase the most expensive ones first Ike the 16-D as once you knocked down the toughie all others get easier and you'll pay less in the long run ......
Consider it takes 2-3 years of searching and buying .... The rarer and better grade coin will appreciate more during those years than the more common date ones .....
But this does not mean you pass that 1927-D in choice AU with sharp bands but you don't overpay for that one either as your focus will be on the 1916-D and 19121 P/D coins ....
Good luck, 1916-D in any grade is a tough guy!
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
I've presently 12 sets of those and all except 2 are completed and all are in Whitman Classic Albums. Set #1 is all FSB. I really like the dark blue color of the Albums and they make Silver coins really stand out. What you should do for prices is get a copy of the Red Book by Whitman Publishing and look through that book for Mercury dime prices. As a general rule, all those prices will be on the high side but adding up all them could give you an idea. Best thing to do is try to get to coin shows where numerous dealers make prices much better. Also, ask friends, neighbors and relatives if they have any. |
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Rest in Peace
United States
18456 Posts |
 Yeah , I like the blue Whitman albums too. I had bought some in the mid to late 60's and are holding up just fine. These have clear plastic slides that lets you to view both sides of the coin like the Dansco's With Carl about the color of the Whitman's against full mint luster silver coins.  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1795 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5832 Posts |
If one decided to go with a set of Full Band, the cost can double or more, even for a AU set.
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Replies: 15 / Views: 1,782 |
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Posted 12/29/2015 9:31 pm
