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 Replies: 33 / Views: 5,156 |
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Valued Member
 United States
175 Posts |
Thanks! Shopping around the 2011 tonight just the sake of it.  Looks like I will be better off buying a complete set. Even at MS69, which believe it or not is hard to come by. Never the less, we're talking in the high 4 large for the Rev Proof alone. I haven't even begun checking on the BU S coin yet. |
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Valued Member
United States
64 Posts |
In PF69 you should be able to find the reverse proof for $250 or less. Same goes for the S burnished in MS69. And pay close attention to the standard proof, the bullion, and the W burnished. Make sure you are buying them with labels that identify them as being from the 25th set. Not just 25th anniversary, but wording stating its from the set.
Edited by 01GTB
03/12/2016 10:53 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1913 Posts |
silverbob, the 25th Anniversary Set includes a bullion ASE without a mint mark. All of these bullion ASE's that were included in the set were minted in San Francisco. In order to be sure you have a true bullion ASE from the 25h Anniversary set, you'll need to make sure the slab label indicates that it's from the 25th Anniversary Set. Otherwise, it's almost certainly just a 2011 mint state bullion ASE. The picture in the link below shows what I'm talking about. The coin is top left. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-25th-A...AOSwT~9WjUKH |
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Valued Member
United States
175 Posts |
A little conflicting here. I think earlier in the thread someone mentioned not to pay premiums for those labels? I like the matching labels with "set" in the labels. But I was under the impression that was overhyped and priced. I am following that link and some others that were recommended from that post. One of those may end up in the cart tonight depending on how my ebay sales go today. I looked for about an hour last night and I never found any that cheap. I must be using the wrong search criteria. Another thing... What is with all the anniversary slabs for 2012 ASE's? It's a little late now as the deed is done and they are either on the way or already here in the collection. All of this slab labeling I am finding it to be one of the more difficult things to understand. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4901 Posts |
This forum expresses opinions and you can use them to form your own ideas. Some like raw coins, some like graded specimens, some see the value in Early Release or First Strike labels... some think they are not worth it. From those collectors who collect slabbed coins I did not see any negs re: coins from sets being labeled as such but I DID see a few suggesting they should be purchased. The point is to be consistent...if you decide to buy the 2011 group of ASE's then buy those with the 25th Annie SET label and decide if you will collect blue label Early Release or not...your choice BUT keep it consistent... I collect 99% NGC MS/PF 70's and all are Early Release. All ASE's from yearly sets are in the appropriate slabs. Most all I have submitted to NGC after buying direct from the Mint. All also have the original presentation box and most fit back inside after being graded. The 25th Annie 5 coin set is a perfect example with all 5 slabs fit right inside the great looking presentation box. I still have six of my original 11 MS/PF 70 ER sets remaining.  (not my pic) |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4901 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1913 Posts |
Quote:
A little conflicting here. What I wrote regarding getting the correct slab on the bullion ASE from the 25th Anniversary Set may have seemed to be contradictory as I previously stated that I collect ASE's in the original packaging. My point was simply that if you're going to collect slabbed coins and want the complete 25th Anniversary Set, then you're going to have to make sure the label for the bullion ASE indicates that it's from the 25th Anniversary Set. So, it's not that I'm recommending you collect slabbed ASE's. But if you do, it's just a hint on what to buy/avoid. |
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Valued Member
United States
175 Posts |
I just want to make sure I am understanding things correctly before I go out on a limb and drop that kind of coin (pun intended). I'm sticking with MS/PF 69. For both cost and conflicting grading horror stories. My biggest issue with this year and ASE's in general you folks have already addressed. That being the labeling and identification of such. I'm not rich, so so for piece of mind I needed to know. I've come to the conclusion, that I will TRY to collect the "sets" when possible financially. There is a little OCD involved here so a valiant effort goes without being said. I just hope those slabbed "set" coins hold their value 10, 20, 100 years down the road. Next to those that are not slabbed "25th ann set". The whole process seems a little gimmicky to me. But also one that has me buying into it. My bottom line is pretty much the same as anyone elses.I want as perfect of an example as possible for the least pain at the pump so to speak. I am collecting for me right now. But down the line it will my childrens little nest egg to do what they choose with. And I want it to be as pristine and profitable as possible for them when the time comes. I will have other questions and concerns along this journey. You can trust me on that!  lol. I'm sure you folks may get the  syndrome from me... My apologies in advance! Also, sorry for being all over the map with my OP. That in itself was difficult to answer. Edited by silverbob
03/13/2016 11:16 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7390 Posts |
I bought my 25th Annie PCGS-69 set on great collections 2 months ago for $450. I suggest you look there (as well as ebay) but you can really score at GC auctions!  |
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Valued Member
United States
175 Posts |
Thanks for the heads up Cascade!  |
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Valued Member
United States
64 Posts |
Anything new can be overwhelming. If you are a little baffled by what you are looking at, it's probably best to take time to study the coin before jumping in. In moderns there will always be more for sale next day, next week, but sometime. Definitely look at ended sales to see where they are selling. If you are someone that gets pretty mad at yourself for overpaying, don't jump in without doing your research. I always remember the few coins I have paid too much for and it eats on me for a long time. You always hope to turn a profit, but at the very least you hope to be able to sell without taking a loss. Back to the slabs, these are the rules I follow: 1) Buy the best label I can for the money. Don't overpay. But if I can find a better label for the same price or just a few bucks more, I'll buy it. NGC and PCGS population reports will be very helpful to get to know your labels. 2) Match the labels within the set. I don't try to match every set to one another. My 2011 set, all of mine are Blue ER. My 2013 set is Black Retro slabbed ER. My 2012 set is the trolley label. For my "sets" that weren't sets from the mint like the 06-08 and 11-15 W burnished ASE, I don't really try to match them. I actually look for bargains in the rarer labels on them. Last year I got a couple ER. One black, one white, both with flag labels. And a couple Baltimore Releases. And one ER from the 2015 UNC Dollar Set. |
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Valued Member
United States
175 Posts |
Good piece of advice GTB. And it almost sounds like a perfect, and much more doable way of doing things from here on out. But at the same time has me already contemplating my 2012's posted previously. No worries about that though. They will serve a purpose until the right time. But what does have me a little annoyed... They bidding war trap has me already kicking myself in the backside. Spend a couple hours trying to nab the best deal to save a 20 spot or so. Just to end up spending $20 more during the hyperclick auction mode! Ughhhh... That will never happen again, I promise! So yeah, I get a little annoyed at myself for that mess.
You pretty much nailed it brother!
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Valued Member
United States
64 Posts |
My Dad and I collected when I was a kid. I quit and didn't return for 30 years. We had bought stuff that was really fairly common and worth no more than what it cost when purchased. We were the basic coin shop suckers. I can tell you the first coins I purchased when I jumped back in was the 2012 set in PF69 So we have that in common. But after that I have purchased only a few more 69 coins. Everything has been OGP or 70 since. I don't look at buying the 2012 set in 69 as a mistake, I still have it. I just look at it as part of figuring out what I really want. At the same time there is no way I could afford to buy the 2011 set in 70 all at once, and it's still not complete. I still need the money coin, the reverse. Basically I won't chase a coin anymore after that one. If I think it's overpriced and don't think it has any upside, I'll pass on it. Looking back at that one I would have purchased OGP and called it a day. I don't look at MS/PF69 slabbed coins as worse than OGP. After all, someone paid to have them graded and they are in nice protected slabs. But there are people who buy sets, even years later, that think they might be buying an OGP with "perfect" coins in there. And they might get lucky. Or they might just like not knowing. And for that reason, in ASE anyway, I'm just trying to guess what people will want down the road. Edited by 01GTB
03/13/2016 4:17 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4901 Posts |
Quote:
2) Match the labels within the set. I don't try to match every set to one another. Exactly...and a point I missed. Love those Trolley labels |
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Valued Member
United States
175 Posts |
Well... Finally got my last 2012 coin in. I guess I shouldnt say "last". I will be flipping the PF without the "set" label. But not until I get her sister in correct labeling. Thanks for all your help! Big, and I mean Big props to Cascade! You my friend just saved me at least $200! I wish I could buy you a drink brother! Go take a look at last nights greatcollections auction. And search out that 2011 set.  . Hmmmm.... Wonder who won that auction.... lol.  Actually, I still need the P coin stiill too. Edited by silverbob
03/21/2016 9:24 pm
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Replies: 33 / Views: 5,156 |
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Posted 03/12/2016 10:30 pm
