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Replies: 16 / Views: 2,462 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1590 Posts |
I recently decided to start a Buffalo set with my youngest son. Now normally I would fill wholes and then put out money for the keys and then upgrade.
This time I started him off with a very nice used Dansco and a 1913-S T2 in a solid Fine. I wasn't sure how I would feel at the time, but looking back; I think it was one of the smartest things I've done. I feel no pressure anymore. Everything is now downhill and we have had a real blast putting this together.
He lives in Northern California and when I went to visit I took him with me on my buying trips. I got to explain to him about horns, tails, fur, and knots. It's been a blast, especially not having to worry about coming up with the money for that "last key".
So does anyone else collect this way?
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
I don't start with key dates or expensive coins. When I start a new series, I just buy what I can find, afford, etc. I go to coin shows a lot and take a list of coins needed for a new set. Usually I just buy the cheapest. I do this in case I loose interest in that one so not much is wasted.
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Rest in Peace
United States
18456 Posts |
No , I do not start that way ,but you may be on to something there. I can see if you buy the key first then the rest of the set will be all down hill. also it will give you an incentive to get more nice coins to fill those other holes. I do just the opposite , keys last. like I'm sure many members also do . 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1188 Posts |
If you know what you're doing, buying the key date first is probably a good idea. If you're new to the series it could be a big mistake. One example I can think of is the 1921 Peace dollar. It's a semi-key date but if you bought one right off the bat you might not know that some have better strikes than others. Even if you bought a MS-65+, it still could have a weak strike; so you may have spent a ton of money and will later regret it wanting one with the better strike. If you're new to a series it's probably best to buy a few common dates and really start to understand the coins in series before shelling out a ton of money on a key. I still don't own the key date for any series though (unless a circulated 50-d I found it circulation counts!). Sounds like you and your son have had a good time starting to put the set together, that time will be priceless. Good luck! 
Edited by LibertyEagle20 03/31/2016 7:39 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2815 Posts |
The keys are last for me too. It's like beating the final boss from a 90's video game. But the idea of getting the keys first is intriguing. If I'm going to do that then it better be a series I'm really going to enjoy. I just finished my buffalo set, and the last coin to join the herd was the 1913-S T2.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4211 Posts |
I pay no attention to key / semi / common as far as purchase order. I make a list in a little book I carry around and when at a show I pick two or three open Danscos and buy what I come across that I like that is in my budget. So, for say $800 I have to spend can leave with one or two coins, or 50 or more. Just whatever catches my eye when I am there. I like that you picked up the key date first. You and your Son will have fond memories of putting that set together! 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1450 Posts |
That is how I started on my Buffalo set. I usually start with least expensive, but the Buffalo's were just not that expensive I found in F to VF condition. I bought only graded and slabbed coins for key dates. This probably cost me a premium but I can sell those coins easily with no long debates about condition. I did the same thing with Washington quarters. I bought the 32-d and 32-S in EF and AU condition and then I just bought a set minus those coins and now I have complete set. I bought a set of Mercury dimes basically in VG to VF condition except for the 16-d. That one I will see what I negotiate with LCS's or coin show dealers and perhaps get one in F condition. That is a lot of money for one coin but I have the same situation with my LSQ's I lack only 1916 and I am probably not paying $7000 for one in just fine condition. I feel a little vomit in my throat when I think of that, but then I see one in mint condition and I start to cry. There are many sets where one or two coins make it impossible for average Joe to complete a set ($5 gold Indian Head 1929). Indian Head eagle same thing: 1920-S, 1930S and 1933 make this almost impossible for average collectors. Saint-Gaudens just the same and 1895 Morgan just the same. Does anyone here have a 1895 Morgan?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1450 Posts |
I see sets of silver Roosevelt dimes for sale that include silver and silver clad dates up until 2013. Just the man-hours it took to actually put together this set is awesome. They are not worth much in physical sense of the scarcity or silver quantity, but the work involved to fill such a set gives me wonder. If I could buy such a set for less than $100 I probably would just because they are so cheap. It must have taken the collector years to do that set. You could will such a set to your grandchildren and I bet they would be worth ten times as much then as now. A common Morgan in MS64 condition sells for at least $75 and there is only $15 of silver in that coin and it sat in a vault for 100 years.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4211 Posts |
@terry. I am one of those that have been working on and off on mint set / proof set P, D, S S both Roosevelt and Kennedy Danscos. I have some $'s sunk in those two albums. It adds up quickly! And yes...the man hours. But I love every minute of it 
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Rest in Peace
United States
18456 Posts |
Right now I'm working on a few different circulated sets . and I have to tell you; the keys are killing me . V nickels , Buffalos , Mercs, SLQ's, and Walkers. I have to admit ,when your a home owner in New York it's just not feasible to pay all your bills and buy key date coins . 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
717 Posts |
Every set I have started, I have bought a coin I have later replaced, or plan to. I'm glad it wasn't a key date. That said, if it is a series that you are familiar (read knowledgeable) with, it is a great way to go.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Many people say start with the key dates. The problem with that is they are expensive. The problem then is so many people loose interest in a hobby and if a large amount invested right from the start, very costly and disapointing way to go. I'd always advise people to just buy what you can afford and or want, not to even think about all those expensive key dated coins.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4415 Posts |
JMKendall .... Buff sets were my favorite ones to assemble. Now that you've started with the most expensive one, not counting the error coins, I humbly suggest that you try to match all the rest to your fine, key coin. Get your son to study the horn and look for half to two-thirds. Have him match the color and seek full, sharp dates, legends, with no problems. This will train his eye and prove to be somewhat of a challenge.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1499 Posts |
When I decide to start a set, I begin with whatever is available at a fair price. My situation is a bit different from some. I've had a lot of experience, and I have a lot of reference books on various subjects. So I don't have a huge "learning period."
The convention wisdom is that you buy the key dates first. I think that is a terrible idea for most collectors for two reasons.
First, for most collectors, when you are starting out, you still have things to learn about strike quality and grading. Goofing up on the purchase of common date probably is not that expensive of a mistake, but if you do it for a key date, you can get hurt badly. And don't think that buying certified coins is going to keep you from falling into the pit. There are grading goofs in slabs too, and the mistakes tend to stay in the holders. Get some experience, then look for the expensive key date stuff.
Second, one of the reasons for buying the key dates first is that the prices for them will keep rising. Therefore it's best to get them out of the way before they become more expensive. In the current market that reasoning might not hold up. Prices have been coming down on some items, and key date coins might not be an exception.
One of the things I've noticed over that last 15 to 20 years is that there are some collectors, investors and speculators who won't buy anything but the key dates. They don't think the other coins are worthwhile for much of anything . That has driven up the prices for the keys disproportionately in my opinion. Such coins will lose value if their market base melts away.
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Valued Member
United States
431 Posts |
I am currently working on many sets. Good luck on the buffalos I need 8 more. I normally go for the key dates last but this isn't always the case. For example, I need about 20 more Mercury dimes to finish my set. As soon as I got the album I bought the 1916D. Just don't buy a coin just to fill a hole, look around for a decent example that you are happy with.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1450 Posts |
I started working on liberty Standing quarters about a year ago. I have all of them except the 1916. Will the cost of that coin ever come down to where I can buy a decent coin for less than $5000? I think it may be going the other way. The 1916 LSQ is worth ten times what all the other LSQ's in same condition are worth. I am not a trust fund baby so it is hard to justify spending $7000 to buy a thin, silver coin in just fine condition that may appreciate. Lots of sets have these ringers in them . I might just collect some of the attractive commemoratives old and new. When as a collector I start to think of my coins as an investment all the pleasure goes away. I can buy stock as an investment or a house. Coins are just coins.
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Replies: 16 / Views: 2,462 |