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Greysheet Vs. Bluesheet Prices And Cracking Slabs

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Biedercoins's Avatar
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 Posted 10/12/2016  1:36 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add Biedercoins to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers

First of all, this is not a topic about how to crack a slab. I've seen seen all those treads going back at least a decade.

I'm not usually concerned about cracking a slab to put the coin in my collection. I'm not planning on selling any of my little buddies, but when I kick, my kids might want to sell. Yesterday's mail contained both the Greysheet monthly supplement [has Lincoln Cent Prices] and a nice upgrade of my 1921-P specimen, an NGC certified 1921 MS-63 RB that is still leaning to the red end. I'm still going to crack it and put it in an Air-Tite with their brothers but it started me thinking about how values of mid-series mint condition Lincoln Wheats are determined.

I put the number in the NGC verification deal just to see the stats and found it had a pretty respectable average of about $100 compared to what I paid ($50). Even bettered the greysheet price (interpolated to ~ $75). What I'm curious about is how Bluesheet prices fit into the continuum with Greysheet (raw) at one end and Auction Prices at the other. What's the Bluesheet price for this coin rating?

In the twilight of 2016 does it "pay" to leave a coin slabbed? Has this been discussed before and I've missed it or can anybody fill in the gaps? Any opinions?

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BStrauss3's Avatar
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 Posted 10/12/2016  5:10 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BStrauss3 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
There is only a passing correlation between the NGC/PCGS values and the real world.

Now, on that same page NGC conveniently lists a sample of auction prices. Those might be PCGS, NCG, even raw. Those are real, albeit sometimes dated.
-----Burton
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Author: 3rd Edition of the Sample Slabs book, https://www.sampleslabs.info/
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paralyse's Avatar
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 Posted 10/12/2016  10:26 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add paralyse to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Bluesheet bid represents the LOWEST bid seen on CPX (now called CDNX) or on active/ended auctions for a given date and MM of a particular coin. The assumption is sight-unseen bids on PCGS or NGC coins without CAC approval. In other words, this is the least amount of money you can expect to pay for that coin under normal circumstances.

Greysheet bid represents the HIGHEST bid seen on CDNX or bids entered/sale prices realized from auctions for that same coin. The assumption here is sight-seen bids on PCGS or NGC coins which are solid in the grade (not over or under.) These days, almost all Greysheet bid prices are for coins in PCGS/NGC slabs -- under JD's direction CDN is really making Bluesheet more of "what's the bottom of the market" report and Greysheet a "what's the average market" report.

Example: A (pick a date) NGC 63RB cent of average quality is listed for sale on a dealer exchange network. Dealer A, without even looking at the coin, bids $45 for it just based on the coin, the holder and the stated grade. Dealer B enters a bid for that coin at $70 sight-seen, and Dealer C offers $80. Meanwhile, in the last couple of months, 4 other coins sold at auctions: a really choice CAC green stickered 63 RB in a PCGS OGH for $125, an average 63RB in a new NGC holder that didn't get much attention and sold for $60, a 63RB in a PCGS rattler that's retoned in the holder to BN and has a weak strike for $65, and an ANACS small white holder coin graded 63RB which has outstanding eye appeal sold for $90.

They take all of those results, in this case, and average them up, and whatever that average is, sets the new Greysheet bid for that particular coin at that particular grade level.

In other words, if a dealer wanted to buy that particular NGC 63RB cent, they would reasonably expect to pay anywhere from $45 for a coin they've never even seen to $125 sight-seen for a choice example with great eye appeal and CAC approval.

The value for any coin over a given time period can be determined pretty much this way: (sum of all recorded sales) / (number of auction appearances) - to me this is the only "true" price guide, and even then, it's only useful if a coin trades enough to make it useful. If 50 1898-S Morgan dollars in NGC MS64 holders have sold on ebay, at Heritage, at Stacks, etc. over the last 6 months, for a total of $42,000 in sales, you can estimate that the "average" 1898-S Morgan in an NGC MS64 holder should sell for around $840, with that number varying up or down based on over/undergrading, eye appeal, toning, strike, CAC approval, VAM type, provenance, and a host of other variables, with maybe an overgraded by 1-step coin with a poor strike and ugly toning going for $650, and a really high end 64 with a green CAC, attractive toning, and a sharp strike going for $1120, just to throw some numbers out there. I pay more for coins I like, and I pay less for coins I don't like.

My only opinion on crackouts is this: do what you like. You're collecting for you, not for me, for him, for her, or for Joe Public, or anyone else, except maybe your kids. Do what makes you happy. Someday, God forbid, if you are in failing health and must face the prospect that your children will be inheriting your collection, that would be a great time to get it slabbed. TPG gradeflation has been creeping up steadily for years, so if you crack out a MS63 now and store it safely, there's a chance that your kids/grandkids might end up with a 65 when they get it reholdered 20-40 or however many years later. (That may not be such a good thing, though -- the populations of MS64/MS65 coins for certain series continue to grow at a fast enough pace that values are starting to fall noticeably as former condition rarities have their rarities made non-rarities by gradeflation.)

JMHO.
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Biedercoins's Avatar
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 Posted 10/13/2016  09:30 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Biedercoins to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply


Quote:
These days, almost all Greysheet bid prices are for coins in PCGS/NGC slabs -- under JD's direction CDN is really making Bluesheet more of "what's the bottom of the market" report and Greysheet a "what's the average market" report.


Thanks paralyse! I'd always been told that grey prices were based mostly on sight-unseen raw coin prices, as rated by dealers trading those coins over the past X amount of time. Before the new owners took over there were the bid/ask numbers which I knew by definition, but never really believed. I like that they are phasing this out. But now you're telling me that the grey numbers are based on TPG rated coins, which surprises me. I thought the bluesheet was similarly laid out based of certified ( TPG) prices gleaned from a dozen, mostly auction, prices over a similar amount of time.

So, with that in mind, grey and blue could easily be combined. Not good for CDN publishing but would be loved by dealers who use the publications.

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paralyse's Avatar
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 Posted 10/13/2016  10:55 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add paralyse to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
They kind of stepped in it a bit, so to speak, by admitting this. In fact, if you read page 2 of a new Greysheet, it now explicitly states that the bids reflect PCGS and NGC graded coins in most cases. The problem is, this has sort of made the Bluesheet redundant, so JD is trying to reposition the Bluesheet as still necessary "to get a complete view of the market."

Personally, I dropped my Blue sub for the first time back in April. I'm not a volume dealer, just a small-time occasional seller, collector, and investor, so I don't do much activity in sight-unseen slab trading or exchange bidding. Bluesheet's value as a tool for slab pricing has been diminished by the changes to Greysheet pricing to reflect both raw and graded coins. John F has done a lot of good things for reviving a moribund CDN; perhaps now is a great time to integrate Blue low-bid pricing into the Greysheet and create a unified guide that will show both the low and the average bids, just as you suggest. Yes, they'd lose sub fees for Bluesheet, but it's been bleeding subs for years, and making that data available in Greysheet might actually sell more Greysheet subs.

The old "ask" has been replaced by "bid + 10%."
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Biedercoins's Avatar
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 Posted 10/13/2016  2:44 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Biedercoins to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Although it's only been a few months since the new owners & management have moved in, I give them credit for sticking to their goals of change, trying to report prices that more reflect current markets & being more relevant in general.


Quote:
perhaps now is a great time to integrate Blue low-bid pricing into the Greysheet and create a unified guide that will show both the low and the average bids


I suspect many would agree with us.

Thanks for pointing out that page 2 blurb. I glossed right over it. It looked like editorial copy when in fact it's another advertisement. And a coupon!

Now they just need a marketing department!

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BadToTheBone's Avatar
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 Posted 10/15/2016  1:09 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadToTheBone to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Otay I have a question Are Graysheet's or Bluesheet information available to the general coin collecting population!
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paralyse's Avatar
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12057 Posts
 Posted 10/16/2016  8:37 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add paralyse to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Yes, BadToTheBone, they are, but there is a yearly subscription fee required, and it's not inexpensive.
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"Most of the things worth doing in the world had been declared impossible before they were done." -- Louis D. Brandeis
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BadToTheBone's Avatar
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 Posted 10/27/2016  09:12 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadToTheBone to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
@ paralyze Thank you for your reply but could you answer me why it would behoove me to consult those lists. Would they actually save me money on say ebay purchases or just from dealing with dealers per say.
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Conder101's Avatar
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 Posted 10/27/2016  2:32 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Conder101 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
You don't have to get a subscription, individual copies of the weekly, monthly and quarterly supplements are available as well. If you aren't a full time dealers the individual copies when you need them would probably be a better option. Prices rarely change so quickly that a collector would need a new copy each week.


Quote:
Would they actually save me money on say ebay purchases or just from dealing with dealers per say.

Well in theory they would tell you what the market value and buy/sell spread is. This is probably true for average commonly traded material, but not for high end material or older less commonly traded material.
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Coinfrog's Avatar
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 Posted 10/27/2016  4:54 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Coinfrog to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Well said.
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paralyse's Avatar
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 Posted 10/28/2016  11:12 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add paralyse to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
For the average collector not engaged in volume trading who wants to buy individual copies, I would recommend buying JUST the quarterly supplements, if possible, and then maybe one greysheet a month at most, or maybe even every two months, as Condor astutely noted.

With most dealers, if you go to a dealer and demand to buy coins at greysheet bid, expect to get the cold shoulder, and rightly so -- they run a business, not a charity.

What it will do for you is let you make smarter decisions by recognizing coins priced above the market (or, very rarely, below.) If Tom's Coin Shop has a 1917 Walking Liberty 50c in a PCGS MS65 holder for, say, $1395, and grey bid is $950, a collector's offer of $1150-$1175 would probably not be unreasonable, with room to negotiate up if the coin is choice in the grade / a CAC candidate, or negotiate down if the coin was overgraded/below average eye appeal.

As Conder also noted, greysheet goes out the window for stuff that doesn't change hands that often. You're not going to bid on an 1804 $1 based on greysheet, nor any other key numismatic rarity. In the case of those sorts of coins, along with others that only come up for sale once in X number of years, past auctions, your gut feeling and the size of your bank account / letter of credit are the only "price guides." Dealing with things like Morgan/Peace dollars, Walkers, IHC's, early 20th c. keys, Buffalo nickels, Mercury dimes, BU modern rolls, etc. the price information is more likely to be useful.
Member ANA - EAC - TNA - SSDC - CCT #890

"Most of the things worth doing in the world had been declared impossible before they were done." -- Louis D. Brandeis
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