Collections That Are Cheaper To Complete

HI,

I put this together a few months ago. I'm sure some values have shifted a little, but in general the totals are likely in the same ballpark.

For my data, I used NGC's online price guide, so it represents a higher retail value and a savvy collector is going to build a set at a notable discount to these numbers :) Take courage! The totals represent the run of coins generally listed including all mint marks, but I did remove a few specific coins entirely from the data set that are SO expensive (thousands even in G condition) that even more advanced collectors won't even chase after them and I don't think should be a reason to avoid building the rest of the set. So further discounts can be had if only looking for 1 coin per year, and not all the mint marks. I just wanted to post what would most likely be the most one would spend, or "worst case scenario" because it all gets easier from there! (As a side note, some of the present day affordability of 20th silver coins could quickly end if silver returns to the days of $40/ounce. Enjoy it while you can!)

Not sure why, but I left off the Capped Bust Half Dimes. That's a pretty feasible set, and there aren't any "keys", they are all relatively equally "common". I'm about halfway done with that set, but been distracted by my 82's full time for the past couple of years.

Great chart Collects. I know you spent A LOT of time working on that.

And yes, values do shift but you have at least listed a ball park to get started in to say at the minimum it would cost X dollars.

Thanks for your efforts!

Gets my vote

So what would your research show the cost of having all the Walkers and Buffs to be in VF and EF condition respectively? To exclude the semi-keys and keys from your chart makes it confusing to me. I would love to have a complete Date/mint set of Walkers in EF condition. Most of my Buffs are in VF. My calculations shows that just for keys and semi-keys you are getting close to $6000 if they are all in EF condition. To be honest I don't want coins in good condition from that time period. They are usually worn flat and smooth and you can just read the date.

It is true that most beginning coin collectors balk at spending $500-$1000 for a key date for a LWH dollar or $500 for a Buffalo nickel. Soon they realize that key dates in the best condition they can afford stand the best chance of appreciation and also get the "oohs and ahhs" from fellow collectors. When I first started to collect I also bought common coins in better condition and keys and semi-keys in lower grades due to price. The fact that you must buy or trade for higher value coins comes as a shock to some. When I plunk down $1500 for a coin I do think about it.

John

I concur with those who suggested a type set. Most 19th and 20th century types are not hard to find and affordable. Should one of the coins in the type set catch your fancy, you can always shift your focus away from the type set to a set of that particular coin. But if you enjoy doing a type set and want to continue, you can expand it to include 18th century coins and gold. Some are quite a challenge to acquire and will keep you busy for awhile.

Andrew99

Your method is a sophisticated method for people who understand coins from an appreciation point of view. I can see just collecting key dates from many collections. There are just a few rare Mercury dimes that suck up all the value as well as LSQ, LWH dollars and a bunch of others. Instead of buying a 1916-d Mercury dime in good condition with idea of completing the whole set, just buy the key dates. It is sort of hedging your bets. If you only have 500 bucks to invest each month buy a stock index fund. Every book says to buy the key dates first but I bet 99% of collectors do just the opposite.
If you get Walkers in higher grades like MS63 you are going to spend a fortune for the coins from 1916 to 28-S. Just getting EF coins will knock your budget in the ditch, but probably worth it, maybe.