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 Replies: 20 / Views: 2,847 |
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Valued Member
United States
104 Posts |
Looking for the right 1934-S and 1928 Peace dollars for my collection. I'm looking for at least MS-63 with good eye appeal (and strike!). This little hint of mine got me wondering...How long did it take you to find the key(s) to your set... or are you still looking? :-) Make sure to let us know the set you are working on! |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
12057 Posts |
Still looking for the right raw, circulated, problem-free 1921 & 1921-D for the last 2 holes in my Walker Dansco Also still looking for the right 1909-S IHC and 1916-D Mercury dime for their Dansco holes. My Washington set was a bit different, bought the 1932-S and 1932-D first and built from there. Member ANA - EAC - TNA - SSDC - CCT #890 "Most of the things worth doing in the world had been declared impossible before they were done." -- Louis D. Brandeis |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
6370 Posts |
I never looked for the keys because I never cared about the keys. I am a type collector, not a set collector, so take my opinion with a grain of salt.
For the keys of the type set, counterfeits are sufficing for the time being.
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Rest in Peace
United States
17900 Posts |
I collect by date, rather than by series, in other words I buy and display all my 1936 coins together in denomination order.
In doing so I do need key and semi key issues as I progress.
But I don't buy them any differently than any other coin. Regardless of the rarity, or lack thereof, I treat every coin that goes into my collection with equal deliberation.
There are very few post-1900 coins that are hard to find if you have loose standards. You, on the other hand, have fairly strict requirements, which is exactly the right attitude as you progress.
It will take much longer to find the coins you want, even for common dates. That patience will result in a much more desirable collection.
Think of it as hunting with only one bullet for each coin. Don't fire at a sickly or lame or mangy coin. Save your bullet for a beauty.
You've already heard buy the coin, not the holder plenty of times, and it's very true.
I have a sign on my inventory book which I take with me when I go to shows and the same sign attached to the top of my computer monitor that says: Buy what you love. Never buy anything else, regardless of the price.
Even if I buy for resale I keep to that standard.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7187 Posts |
Also waiting for the right coin and $ for the 1921, and 1921 d Walking Liberty halves to complete my set. Other missing keys are: 1928 Hawaiian comemorative half, 1916 d dime, 1877 and 1909 s Indian cent. |
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New Member
United States
37 Posts |
I'm a bit lucky. I am a new collector and pretty much just started with my collection on Christmas (when I was given two of the key coins for my Peace dollar collection). I have the 1921 AU58 and the 1928 XF. So the only one I have left is the 1934-S like you Logntrky. Although I am a coin collector on a budget, so I won't be getting any 1934-S MS-63 any time soon. I am collecting XF and up and the 1934-S will most likely be XF when I find it or AU55 at best. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1450 Posts |
I am still working on my sets because there is always room to improve them. Right now I am trying to finish a Morgan set, but if I see an outstanding LWH or Peace dollar or Buffalo nickel for a great price I will buy it if I can. Some key dates like 1893-S Morgan are so expensive in anything beyond VF condition it is really a long process to get there, but the journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. You know you have these conditional rarities within sets like the 34-S Peace dollar in MS63-65 condition and you have to take these into account. There are many Morgans that jump from $250 in AU to $7000 in MS, so you have to set realistic goals for your income and resource level at the time. |
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Valued Member
United States
404 Posts |
My main collection is colorful toned Mercury dimes, because of that I buy them only when I see a date I don't have, or when I see a prettier coin than the one that I have for any given date |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1373 Posts |
Quote:
*moxking* ...There are very few post-1900 coins that are hard to find if you have loose standards I totally agree with this prior statement. For me, finding that special coin to complete my sets is not at all difficult (in today's world I could buy whatever I was looking for within the next hour). The only difficulty I have is financing my addiction. :) |
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CCF Advertiser
United States
1533 Posts |
This is why you should be particular. Its not much of a hobby if the bulk of your activity is saving. That doesn't even sound much fun at all.
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Valued Member
United States
383 Posts |
Earlier this year, I decided to put together a set of Indian Quarter Eagles. Had the key 11-D come along with the right look, and at the right price, I would've jumped on it without hesitation. I did bid on a couple over the year at auction, but missed out both times. Ironically, it was by chance that I found, more like stumbled upon one that had the look I was after and at a reasonable price... it just so happened to be the last one I needed. Set complete.
ET
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
94367 Posts |
Guess it mostly has to do with the particular series and your grade target. Almost all 20th c. series can be collected in mid-grade quite quickly, while assembling a mid-grade set of, say, Liberty Seated quarters could take a lifetime. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1499 Posts |
I spent about 50 years completing a U.S. type set of coins from the Half Cent to the $50 gold Panama - Pacific slugs. It took me about two years to find a 1796 No Stars Quarter eagle that pleased me, and I had the bucks to buy it. Some collectors spend decades looking for coins. Of late I've been looking for a suitable 1839-C quarter eagle ($2.50), and I've had one of the leading gold dealers in The United States looking for one too. I could have bought one any number of times, but all of those coins were over graded and not attractive because most of them had been cleaned. Peace dollars are a good deal easier. There are no "impossible" coins in the set, but you have to be patient and find "the right coins." |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
757 Posts |
Quote:
Of late I've been looking for a suitable 1839-C quarter eagle ($2.50), and I've had one of the leading gold dealers in The United States looking for one too. I could have bought one any number of times, but all of those coins were over graded and not attractive because most of them had been cleaned. Heritage has an AU50 coming up for auction on the 27th of January. There are also a few on Heritage you can make an offer to the owner. Here is another one. http://www.rarecoinwholesalers.com/...2-sku-132524With the internet as long as you have the money you can get anything. |
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Valued Member
United States
97 Posts |
I am almost finished with an AU wheat Lincoln set. I bought most of the semi-keys early to get some of the more expensive ones out of the way. I also paid a bit extra for some to get them slabbed. It helped me immensely in my grading skills and learning about strike quality. For instance, my first 26S was AU but had a weak strike on the reverse-my upgrade doesn't suffer from that issue! I got a 25D for Christmas after searching for 1 year to find a coin with a decent strike. I'm still short the S VDB but will have enough saved in Feb to do my hunting. Debating about the 22 plain-regular issue or mint error like a 55 DDO? Not convinced either way. Besides not getting a 22 Plain allows money to be used for keys in my next set (Buffalos? Mercs? WLH?)! |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Oddly enough if you go to enough coin shows you would see more so called key dated coins than some you just need. I spent years looking for some coins that were no way key dates.
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Replies: 20 / Views: 2,847 |
Posted 12/28/2016 9:57 pm
