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Replies: 25 / Views: 3,147 |
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Valued Member
United States
295 Posts |
I've been looking for 20th C. US overdates on ebay. I struck out with the 1918/7 5c and 1942/1 10c--but I picked up this nice 1943/2 Nickel!  Perhaps what I like best about this coin are the 43/2 details--a lot of the underlying diagonal of the 2 is preserved. In later die states, much of this detail is obscured by die wear. The 43/2 markers are best studied from several lighting angles.  In hand, the coin is brighter. I shot this way to resolve detail on Monticello.  Compared to pictures in Photograde (top/bottom), I think my coin places closer to EF40...  Edited by Thulium 03/17/2017 2:30 pm
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Moderator
 United States
56855 Posts |
How much did it set you back? It is a nice one. John1 
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Rest in Peace
United States
7075 Posts |
Wow -- the lighting really does make a huge difference.
I think it might do a little better than EF40.
Very nice.
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Valued Member
 United States
295 Posts |
Thanks...I had a hunch it might grade better than the seller's pictures showed....and got a good price on it.  The earlier die state is what really makes it good to me--details are everything in varieties. PS: when I received the coin, I initially was disappointed because I thought the coin was tooled in the hair ends--until I remembered this was done on a hub and is found on other '43 obverse dies. 
Edited by Thulium 03/17/2017 6:55 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1000 Posts |
Just looking for confirmation that this one is a tooled coin so I can report it in that subforum: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1943-2-SILV...AOSw4A5Yys-jFourth picture shows an incuse area around the bottom of the 3 where the slight slant upwards could have been created. No other markers on the three, no doubling on the four.
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Rest in Peace
United States
17900 Posts |
Really a superior example and great photo presentation. Congratulations.
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Valued Member
 United States
295 Posts |
Quote: Fourth picture shows an incuse area around the bottom of the 3 where the slight slant upwards could have been created. No other markers on the three, no doubling on the four. I suspect this 43/2 is genuine--just more wear overall and a later die state than mine.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5193 Posts |
nice 43/2 coin , congrats
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Pillar of the Community
United States
650 Posts |
I recently picked one of these 1943/2 from a forum member (slabbed AU-53). Where do you find info about the die state? I'll post my date, the diagonal line of the 2 is not as well defined on mine. Guess that means it's a later die state? 
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
62064 Posts |
This is a DDO on the Obverse. It is not an over date. Those ended with the Indian Head cents after 1900. This was the case of two different die wears used to hub the die a second time. An over date is deals with an issue of when the die was created, two different date punches were used. This is not the case on this coin.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5964 Posts |
Nice coin.   I've been looking for one these for a long time.
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Valued Member
 United States
295 Posts |
Quote:This is a DDO on the Obverse. It is not an over date. As an overdate collector, just for the record-- yes this is an overdate. It's simple really--a die from an earlier date was dated to a later date, ie one date over another.  Just because a hub was used to change the date doesn't change the fact it's an overdate--the process used to change the date is secondary. For example, before dies were dated with punches, they were dated by hand engraving. So, there are overdates done by re-engraving the date, by impressing a new date punch, and by re-hubbing the die--a different process, but all overdates. More to the point, Fivaz/Stanton call this an overdate; Coneca calls this an overdate. PCGS calls this an overdate, as does NGC.
Edited by Thulium 03/18/2017 1:56 pm
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Moderator
 United States
54283 Posts |
Quote:This is a DDO on the Obverse. It is not an over date. Both PCGS and NGC refer to this coin as an "overdate". NGC goes on to say it is ALSO a double die ("Like all overdate varieties of the 20th Century"). EDIT: Thulium posted while I slowly composed my message...and beat me to it.
Edited by nss-52 03/18/2017 1:33 pm
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Valued Member
 United States
295 Posts |
Quote: I recently picked one of these 1943/2 from a forum member (slabbed AU-53). Where do you find info about the die state? I'll post my date, the diagonal line of the 2 is not as well defined on mine. Guess that means it's a later die state? Congrats on getting yours!  I'm not sure if there's a reference on die states for Jefferson nickels or any coin really. From what I know, the experts can call die states by the degree of wear seen on the die and how it affects details. I don't claim to be an expert on Jefferson nickels--I only guess it's an earlier die state due to details seen in the overdate.  So comparing the date on yours to mine, I would guess yours is a later die state--due to less detai in the 43/2 and more flow lines in the fields. Quote: NGC goes on to say it is ALSO a double die ("Like all overdate varieties of the 20th Century").
Right--when hubs have the date on them, overdates are performed by hubbing with the later date. This is not only true for 20th C. US coins, but for overdates from other mints. Take for example this overdate on a 1 Rappen coin from Switzerland. In both 1924 and 1925, the date was on the hub. Therefore, dating a die from 1924 to 1925 involved a second hubbing. This is usually listed as a 1925/4, but you could also call it a 1925/1924 as doubling is seen on every digit. 
Edited by Thulium 03/18/2017 2:27 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4211 Posts |
Congrats Thuilum! I also recently purchased this coin as it was the LAST one I needed for my Jefferson album.  I found an AU at the ANA show last Friday for $140.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
94367 Posts |
Surely overdates didn't end with the 1900 IHC. What about the '18/17-D nickel or the '42/41 dime - aren't those overdates? 
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Replies: 25 / Views: 3,147 |