Top Pop 2008

all of the coins shown fall below the control coins

Judging from the photos 44 #2, 52 #2

I really don't think any but maybe the 44 #2 has a chance
for anything over MS64. But photos of BU can be hard to judge,

Jim

Metalman,

I think I need to work on the photo's some more, as I look at them they are not representative of the actual cents and when being graded a 5X loupe will be used (I was rushing to get done before the children woke up). I understand the strike differences, on the other side of things, the "S" mint rolls were hoarded more than the "P" mint. If you take a look at certified totals the 52-S has 1072 certified cents and the 52P has 681. An MS67 52P is quoted at $6500 and a 52S is $625 (thus verifying your statement on quality of strike). Rolls on the other hand are the opposite, the 52S goes for more than the 52P (which is due to mintage), except I think the 52P are harder to find. If you do a search for rolls, the 52-S comes up a lot more than the P. In fact there are no P rolls for sale now on ebay, just the 52-S.

I have 5-6 rolls of the 55-S, I will go through them and pull out some of the better strikes so we can have an apple to apple comparison.

I may have rushed this thread and need to spend some more time finding some of the better ones I have and improve on the photo's.

Chris - I think you're MUCH better off using your eye to determine which one to send. Pictures just aren't going to "cut the cheese"....unless perhaps you post full resolution, uncompressed images....even those can deceive. There's no beating the tilt and turn eye-balling of a coin. With the eye, you're able to see every nuance, you just can't do that with pictures. We just see a flat, lifeless image with no light reflections.

I understand what you're going though. As I've upgraded from MS64>65>66>higher BU coins, it's can be a VERY difficult decision and I understand the quandary you're in. I fought with this so hard sometimes, I just made another space in my binder and put BOTH coins in there. LOL Sometimes they are equal quality, but one might be more red or more bassy or have interesting toning....arrrgggg....it's TOUGH to decide sometimes.

For your posts, just put a "You vs PCGS" thread and let us guess how it's going to come back.

What? You're using logic, TPG's don't use logic! LOLOLOLOLOL

Seriously, you're advice is sage. That sounds like a good process to follow IMO. The beard details is one of the first things to go on a die, followed by the ear/hair. Seems early die states get better grades.

Thad,

The whole ideal behind this was to give me something to do for the next 3 months, now I am rethinking my plan. I understand the decisions of "who" makes it into my Dansco album and have decided to just start a 3 ring binder with all of my toned, woodgrain and other Lincolns that IMHO look better than some of the MS65-67 ones in the Dansco. Heck I think I have at least 10 VDB's that are more beautiful than most of the ones I own.

I think I will just stick with my eye on this one, I will still send in a couple of the ones above just to see. I have the 8 free submissions, now to decide which ones out of my gallery to send in? I was also thinking of finishing off my proof set, I think I have a handful left to complete my registry set, I know I want to send in my 38 proof and a couple more.

Maybe I will do the you VS PCGS, I should really be concentrating on organizing my coins, the piles have grown to a point where there might be no hope of finding he bottoms.

you won't find any cents in my collection with black spots .

but then again you won't find any of my coins in slabs with irresponsible grades on them either .

I have found that the only truely consistent standard is the one I apply .

The rims are a great indication of strike quality ! I'm glad to see others using this method already it shows a level of collector maturity which will produce very positive results in the hobby in the years to come !