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 Replies: 14 / Views: 2,021 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3234 Posts |
I will be breaking up a couple of raw sets soon, including a 7070, and sending off a good chunk of the coins to grading services. I'm not thrilled about paying a bunch of extra money to get the coins in plastic. However, with my past experience of buying/selling, I have found that various coins will have an easier time selling and at a stronger price once slabbed. I know....it's dumb....it's still the same coin in a 2X2. For some coins, I will leave as raw. Also, when showing the coins to local dealers, generally speaking, the debate of coin grade is largely abated (but I do realize that's not always the case, but the plastic does provide a bit more power to the argument given their grade). I'm curious to see what you guys think about my system of determination and what you might do differently. Even as I type this post, I can hear the groans of why does he need to put it in plastic?! And, I hear you. I will be probably trying to be more constrained to put coins I would have once thought need to be in plastic and leave it raw. Raw: Value $50, no brainer. Depending on how common and if minor grade difference don't change the value much, coins up to about $200 or so. ANACS: Non-gold value over $100-$300 for common type coins where minor grade differences won't change the value much. Common gold coins up to $1000 in value. PCGS: Value $150+ for coins with sensitive grading valuations and those that are a bit more scarce, especially Proofs. For instance, my AU 1883 and 1887 3CN will be sent here since they need to be confirmed as business strikes (for which I do believe they are) and the buying public puts a bit more trust in this plastic. NGC: All the rest. I'm a member of the ANA so I have direct privileges with NGC and I would join the Platinum level with PCGS. ANACS is local to me, so I will try to save on shipping by delivering and retrieving coins directly (esp. once shows start happening again). Once all the grades are in, then I will decide which coins should go out to CAC. Again, more money, but for certain higher end types, this can prove to be very beneficial on the selling end. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7273 Posts |
I think your logic makes sense. I finally broke down and sent a few coins to Anacs to see more how my grading is. If it's good, I have a few RAW IHC that I might get slabbed. Personally I don't understand slabbing everything and cacing every thing but there are instances when it makes sense. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5825 Posts |
I'm VERY pro-TPG. Why (in order of importance to me)? -- 1. Verification of authenticity. -- 2. Verification of originality. -- 3. Verification of grade Anything I believe will value at $200 or more will get slabbed. Anything I pay more than $150 for will be bought already slabbed. Order of TPG preference: -- 1. PCGS (already slabbed coins and raw coins requiring variety identification) -- 2. NGC (already slabbed; I'm an ANA member but I have issues with NGC which is why they are not tied with PCGS.) -- 3. Others - ANACS, ICG, SEGS, PCI, etc. (I will buy $50-$200 coins from these TPG's if I can't find them in PCGS or NGC slabs. ) -- 4. Raw coins <$50 will remain raw. One factor for all the above is I'm older and will probably pass on before my wife. If that's the case I intend to die with my collection intact. All this slabbing will make it easier for her to convert to cash. If she passes on first, well ...? And I don't pay to have coins CAC'ed but I will buy CAC'ed coins if they cost about the same as non-CAC'ed coins. Edited by kanga
08/10/2020 10:12 am
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
10284 Posts |
I have only sent maybe 25 or 30 coins to get graded and they were all sent to ANACS because I took them to a coin show during a special summer offer and an ANACS representative at the show took them from there saving me half the shipping and insurance. I found that ANACS results were disappointing on about 30% of those coins, generous on another 20% and suppose I agreed on the rest. It was cheap to do it this way but the better coins got the lions share of my disappointing results. Funny too, how a certain series coins got hammered critically and others were more forgiving. I suppose that different series go to different graders? The grades I received make little difference to me, I still like the coins. I have to be honest, I did like the generous grades.  I sent them just to make sure those coins didn't get lost in the shuffle if there was a sale at some point. The slab would tell somebody it was a noteworthy coin, that there was something special about it. I bet if I resubmitted a few elsewhere I would get a better grade. |
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Moderator
 United States
56855 Posts |
Here's my Two Cents  : if I am going to keep them I would use ANACS. If I am planning on selling them soon,PCGS. I know that each company kinda specializes in certain series,but I don't remember which is what  . John1  |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
8938 Posts |
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Non-gold value over $100-$300 for common type coins where minor grade differences won't change the value much. Common gold coins up to $1000 in value. I agree in general, but stuff like common G$20 can go ANACS as well as there isn't much of a price difference. Quote:
PCGS: Value $150+ for coins with sensitive grading valuations and those that are a bit more scarce, especially Proofs. For instance, my AU 1883 and 1887 3CN will be sent here since they need to be confirmed as business strikes (for which I do believe they are) and the buying public puts a bit more trust in this plastic.
NGC: All the rest.
Yup. Quote:
I would join the Platinum level with PCGS Or. If you want, I can let you piggyback on my PCGS account and save you the money. |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
3234 Posts |
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Or. If you want, I can let you piggyback on my PCGS account and save you the money. GrapeCollects, that's much appreciated. I know of a number of dealers in my area (although I haven't talked to any of them in many moons now) that I could probably (ab)use of that privilege as well. I probably would still set myself up with Platinum Level due to the number of coins that I would want to send in over multiple shipments. Also, my paranoid and impatient side can be a bit more mitigated by directly dealing with the shipments. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
8938 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1613 Posts |
I'm with John1. Simply because of cost if for my own collection, PCGS because of their track record when time to sell. Almost always more than the others of the same grade.
ANA member - PAN Member - BCCS Member There are no problems only solutions - the late, great John Lennon
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Pillar of the Community
United Kingdom
2133 Posts |
I prefer raw coins. I wouldn't actively buy slabbed coins but I've got a few because they came in mixed lots where was something raw I wanted.
However, the most valuable slabbed coin is probably worth $30.
Why would someone get a coin of low worth slabbed ?
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
I hate slabbed coins. I never keep them in slabs if I buy one. I don't collect plastic, just coins. I think to many people are just slab happy.
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Valued Member
United States
100 Posts |
I'd say ANACS for the infrequent senders of coins in the sub 300 dollar range, and PCGS and NGC are equal unless the coin has a huge jump in price to the next higher MS grade, which I would then send to PCGS.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
17884 Posts |
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Even as I type this post, I can hear the groans of why does he need to put it in plastic? I no longer groan over this any more. I have just come to accept that a great many if not most collectors no longer trust their own judgement and need their hand held. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3234 Posts |
Quote:
I no longer groan over this any more. I have just come to accept that a great many if not most collectors no longer trust their own judgement and need their hand held. Conder, I completely disagree with you on this, as it relates to what I'm doing. I'm not getting them graded because I need to know the grade, I'm doing so to maximize selling potential and ease of transactions. I've been and seen too many situations where collectors/dealers will waffle at grade differences (small and large) and the plastic in most cases will settle the argument (but not always). Plus, the N/P plastic normally nails down any issues in the mind of the buyer if the coin is "good for the grade". To be a bit more blunt, in some cases, if you don't put it in plastic you can be leaving a lot of money on the table. You might have incredible relationships and deep trust with all the people you transact with...that's not the norm. Edited by Prethen
08/12/2020 08:49 am
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
17884 Posts |
My comment doesn't necessary mean you are getting them graded because you don't know the grade, but it makes them easier to sell because the BUYERS need their hand held. They don't have the confidence in their own opinion to put their money behind it with out having someone else's opinion (which could be wrong) to rely on. I base my purchase decisions on my opinion of the coin and it condition and whether or not it is worth to me what the dealer is asking. Not what he calls it, not what anyone else calls it. And if I have any doubts I will pass. If my opinion later turns out to be wrong I will take my lumps for it because it was MY choice. And if you can't be absolutely sure in your own mind that a coin is a particular grade without someone else telling you it is, then you shouldn't be buying it.
Just my personal opinion.
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Replies: 14 / Views: 2,021 |
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Posted 08/10/2020 10:08 am
