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 Replies: 18 / Views: 2,991 |
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New Member
United States
13 Posts |
I'm finally down to it. One last Lincoln Cent to close out the collection. I've felt comfortable picking the rest of the key and semi key dates through the years. Most are in F to XF condition so none are special. What is left is the 1922 no D. I've read through the other threads looked at some of those listed on ebay and have arrived at the conclusion that I have neither the eye nor the knowledge to avoid fakes. I suppose my solution would be to buy a graded copy but I intend on dropping it in the Dansco album so that seems like a waste. Any advice on what to consider when looking at a non-graded coin? |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
5663 Posts |
Getting a slabbed, authenticated coin is safest, or if you're buying a raw coin on ebay, NGC can provide a preliminary authentication (before bidding) for $5. Or you could always post seller photos here to get opinions. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
713 Posts |
Look for die#2 -- the second 2 should be a bit stronger [more defined] This is a link that may help in your decision: http://www.lincolncentresource.com/...rieties.html Most that I see are in G-VG condition and those are quite pricey. Good luck and keep us posted. Edited by CentSation
01/13/2021 6:18 pm
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
94367 Posts |
Agree with Zurie - if you're not well-versed on this coin, the only safe approach is to buy one you like in a straight major TPG slab and crack it.  to the CCF! Edited by Coinfrog
01/14/2021 09:11 am
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New Member
 United States
13 Posts |
I read through the link that CentSation posted above in a different thread and that is what let me know I know nothing. But it made me look at a coin like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/1922-PLAIN...AOSwpMpf~3-Rand think that it doesn't add up. The twos look off. The whole In God We Trust looks hitchy as well/ Anyway, when I am ready to pull the trigger I will post it here first. Thanks for taking the time to answer my post. |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
10635 Posts |
I agree. This coin is very heavily counterfeited by the Chinese, so much that no way I'd buy this cent unstabbed. If you have a nice set, it would be worth the peace of mind to buy it stabbed and break it out yourself.  to the CCF!  |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
94367 Posts |
The link is to a fake, no question.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1359 Posts |
Buy a slabbed one and break it out. I never considered this coin to be a variety myself, and dont want one, but there is a hole in the Dansco for it (1922 plain) To me its just an over polished die. It falls into the no initials floating roof category. What it does have going for it is the very low mintage.
I bought many and still buy slabbed coins, to break them out. I actually have a few (TOP 100 RPMs) right here in front of me that is really hard to bring myself to crack out, but I will, I think, maybe...lol. Its not a waste if its for your own personal collection. Keep the label for yourself. Weigh your options. I prefer raw coins.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
6514 Posts |
Quote:
Buy a slabbed one and break it out. I never considered this coin to be a variety myself, and dont want one, but there is a hole in the Dansco for it (1922 plain) To me its just an over polished die. It falls into the no initials floating roof category. I agree. In my Dansco I put a blank planchet in the hole. Check out my counterstamped Lincoln Cent collection: http://goccf.com/t/303507 |
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Valued Member
United States
284 Posts |
I was pleasantly surprised when my 1922 Plain came back from PCGS at AU 58 Strong Reverse (Population 83). The long-time owner of the local coin shop assured me it was fake. I doubted anyone could pass off a fake to Ed, the long-dead and much-loved mentor and collector who sold it to me. Traumatized by learning it was fake; then re-traumatized on learning it wasn't, I figured I'd better send out a few more coins. When Ed died, I stuck my collection (and my ability to enjoy it) in the attic -- about half a century ago, Back then, there were no slabbed coins. The best I could do for TPG participation was to staple my 2x2's to ANACS certification documents. That is to say, black and white POLAROIDS. I resumed my interest in 2017. I saw wisdom in getting some of the better pieces out of albums and slabbed. Ergo, the trips to the coin shop. I had no notion which were the "better pieces." I posit that I was wise to forsake the albums in deference to the coins, but I didn't leave glaring holes to vex me. I wrote the PCGS or NGC serial no. and grade on an AVERY (#6737) label, slid out the upper transparent slide and stuck the label to the lower transparent slide. I'll eventually sell the collections as a whole, most probably. The buyer will know s/he can fill those slots with lower grade coins if that floats his/her boat. I hope S/he cleans off any label goo first! This know-nothing would advise you to heed the expert advice above and invest cautiously and wisely and then do yourself and the next owner a favor by leaving the investment in its protective casket. My family name is Murphy. I know a LOT about Murphy's Law. Kevin |
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New Member
United States
13 Posts |
While I know it is best to leave a coin slabbed, some part of me just can't stand having an empty space in the book.  I'll have to wait to buy until a couple coins I have on ebay sell. I bought a partial set off ebay which was missing the 1922 no D and 1918 S of all things. The only coin I needed from the set was the 1914 D. Sold the 1931 S and have the 1909 S VBB and 1909 S up separately. I've already had an offer for the 1909 S VDB for $50 more than the whole set cost me to buy. The 1910-15 S's will be listed as a group as well as a group of the semi key dates from the 20's and 30's. With any luck I recoup the set cost and have most of the money for a slabbed 1922 no D....plus the 1914 D The crazy thing about the set I bought was that only the first 2 pages were pictured and they were terrible quality. The set also came with the rest of the pages and pages 3 & 4 were all AU or better which was an improvement from what I had. Edited by jjttdw
01/14/2021 10:56 am
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Valued Member
United States
284 Posts |
It seems like you're having fun and you know your way around. You'll fit in well here.
Kevin
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New Member
United States
13 Posts |
KCM, I think you spoke too soon. ebay has just informed me that they believe the 1909 S VDB is not genuine. I'm glad they said something before I accepted an offer. The last thing I want to do is sell something that isn't real. Here are some pics. So was the S added or the VDB?   |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5663 Posts |
I agree it's likely counterfeit. The dot after the D in VDB is too close to the D, and the mint mark position isn't correct for any of the 4 known obverse dies. It might be an added S fake.
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Pillar of the Community
2145 Posts |
Any chance of getting a clear close up of the date with the Mint Mark to check location better?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1359 Posts |
Cant tell from the pictures. Need a closeup of the date and MM. can tell you one thing. If it is real, its worth way more than a $50 offer. Why would you even consider an offer that low if you thought it was real? Edit:  I read it wrong, they offered $50 more than the whole set cost... Edited by Kloccwork419
01/14/2021 3:43 pm
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Replies: 18 / Views: 2,991 |
Posted 01/13/2021 6:13 pm
