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 Replies: 9 / Views: 1,094 |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
6451 Posts |
The core of my personal collection is 1976 bicentennial coins. Presumably that collection will expand next year for the semiquincentennial coins, and with an eye towards expansion, I have started to consider adding a 1926 sesquicentennial coin to my collection. I quickly discovered that pricing and quality are all over the map on these coins (much like bicentennials). It also seems like there is the potential of knockoffs and fakes for the 1926 silver coins.
What is the right way to approach adding one of these coins to my collection? Is it safe to buy raw? Are there pitfalls to such coins? Are graded coins preferable?
I know that many folks here are very knowledgeable about vintage coins. As someone who rarely ventures below WWII in date, I am cautious about my first purchase, doubly so because commemoratives are so different from circulation strikes. Advice is appreciated! =)
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CCF Master Historian of USA Commemoratives
 United States
12252 Posts |
@Brandmeister: A few things to keep in mind...
1.The 1926 Sesquicentennial Half Dollar was struck in low relief - this can make it difficult to tell the difference between a Mint State example and a Lightly Circulated example. Examine a potential purchase closely - check for breaks in the coin's luster. Breaks in luster almost always indicate an area of wear (though such areas can sometimes be the result of a weak/incomplete strike that produced an incomplete metal flow).
2. Beware of polished examples. I've seen a good number of polished examples over the years. If every portion of a coin looks "shiny" in the same intensity, it raises the possibility of it being a polished example.
3. I advise looking at many examples of the coin before making a purchase. It's important to develop a sense of the characteristics of a "nice" example vs. an average one so that you can feel good about your purchase.
4. I would advise purchasing a graded example from a respected service (e.g. PCGS, NGC, ANACS) to remove some of the potential for "mistakes." Mistakes in graded holders are out there, but their number is significantly reduced vs. "raw" coins.
5. There is generally a big jump in market price between a coin graded MS-64 and one graded MS-65. Very nice MS-64 examples are out there, and can be difficult to tell from MS-65 examples. So, shop and compare!
Those are a few things to consider - hope they help. If you have a specific question, please post.
Collecting history one coin or medal at a time! (c) commems. All rights reserved.
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Moderator
United States
187582 Posts |
As expected, commems to the rescue.   |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
6451 Posts |
Thanks, commems. That answered one of my questions straight off—why many of the slabbed MS coins have an almost XF appearance. I suppose that is a combination of the low relief and a weak strike? I will take your advice and start looking over coins on ebay for May. Probably I will have some follow-up questions as I slowly do the visual research. One immediate question I have is whether you consider the prices on PCGS, Red Book, Numismedia to be accurate for this coin. If even low MS examples are a couple hundred bucks, then maybe the right place to start is a nice XF or AU coin that would reasonably straight grade (not for grading, per se, but just so I'm not picking up a cleaned, polished, or other Details coin). |
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CCF Master Historian of USA Commemoratives
United States
12252 Posts |
Quote:
... I suppose that is a combination of the low relief and a weak strike? It's likely the reason, but it can vary by coin. Quote:One immediate question I have is whether you consider the prices on PCGS, Red Book, Numismedia to be accurate for this coin. I would suggest "Sold" prices on ebay and/or recent "Sold" lots at Heritage Auctions, StacksBowers Auctions, etc. Personally, I like to see what current collectors are actually paying for a coin vs. a published guide that can be influenced by other factors. Collecting history one coin or medal at a time! (c) commems. All rights reserved.
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Moderator
United States
15386 Posts |
I'll add to the discussion that these are readily available in the market in circulated condition.
Most often raw, but a lightly circulated XF - AU example can be had at nearly all larger coin shows for a fraction of the price of a certified MS64 coin.
Of course, all of commems advise still applies. A key is to examine enough coins to make an informed purchase decision.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
6451 Posts |
Well, I have been watching ebay daily for these coins. After a month, I can see that when I spot a strong strike that doesn't look cleaned, it typically sells for a load of cash. The downside is that the coins which I find appealing are expensive, and I'm nowhere near ready to shell out that much money to add one to my collection. I will add that prices are often all over the place. I still find graded coins to be a little puzzling. Sometimes faint strikes or dull coins get graded as MS65 or higher by PCGS or NGC. ANACS coins seem to have consistently increasing eye appeal as the grade increases. |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
12809 Posts |
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The downside is that the coins which I find appealing are expensive, and I'm nowhere near ready to shell out that much money to add one to my collection. Ah, the classic numasmatist's lament! |
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Moderator
United States
187582 Posts |
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Ah, the classic numasmatist's lament! Indeed. The three holes I need to fill have not been filled because my budget says go low, but my heart wants to go higher.  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
6451 Posts |
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Replies: 9 / Views: 1,094 |
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Posted 04/29/2025 2:10 pm
