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1900 P Barber Dime: How Large Should The Photo Be?

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TonysPics's Avatar
United States
178 Posts
 Posted 06/04/2009  6:04 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add TonysPics to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I took the photos in the original post at the coin shop with the overhead flourescent lighting and the obverse had some glare (my coin photography book says don't use flourescent lighting), but I took this one at home with 2 incandescent lamps on each side.

Unlike Dave's coin above, this one has no contrast or toning, but does have lots of mint luster.

Any opinions on the new photo and the MS65 grade?


1900-P-Barber-Dime:-How-Large-Should-The-Photo-Be?


And even though I took the reverse photo at the shop, it looks OK to me, but I would appreciate opinions on whether or not I should take a new photo of the reverse.

1900-P-Barber-Dime:-How-Large-Should-The-Photo-Be?
Edited by TonysPics
06/04/2009 6:19 pm
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
United States
23522 Posts
 Posted 06/04/2009  6:30 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
In my opinion (and this is *only* an opinion), the reverse photo is the winner. It's a much more accurate depiction of the true luster of this wonderful coin. Both photos are detailed enough to show the technical grade, but the reverse seems more like the coin would actually look in-hand.
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TonysPics's Avatar
United States
178 Posts
 Posted 06/04/2009  7:17 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add TonysPics to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Dave, I agree and I think I should try the obverse again. The incandescent lighting doesn't show any glare but it doesn't show the awesome mint luster.
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Jaobler's Avatar
United States
6384 Posts
 Posted 06/04/2009  8:39 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Jaobler to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The new obverse photo has somehow obscured the luster. Maybe you are using too many light sources? To show cartwheel luster you basically need a point source of light, which can be a single halogen or incandescent bulb located well above the coin. An MS-65 uncirculated coin should show "hot" and "cold" (i.e., brighter and darker) areas caused by reflection and diffraction of the point-source lighting. If you have too many point sources the hot/cold contrasts are averaged out, giving a uniform (and unnatural) appearance.

Just my opinion!
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weerdsteev's Avatar
United States
1291 Posts
 Posted 06/04/2009  9:50 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add weerdsteev to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
And in my totally UNINFORMED opinion, I'll repeat something I said back at the beginning of all this: It looks like it's in black and white - or greyscale. Why is that? Is it me? It's like the color saturation or vividness has been turned off.
Edited by weerdsteev
06/04/2009 9:51 pm
Valued Member
TonysPics's Avatar
United States
178 Posts
 Posted 06/05/2009  3:53 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add TonysPics to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Steev, it has no color. It's just a uniform shiny silver on the obverse. The reverse seems to have some slightly different shades of silver.
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Mike Hayes's Avatar
United States
11 Posts
 Posted 06/17/2009  12:36 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Mike Hayes to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
That's a very clean 1900 Dime.

The last reverse image shows great lustre
but the obverse looks somewhat flat.

I just added a 1900-P Dime to my set yesterday
but as this is only my second post, I'm not too
sure of how to post images.

--- don't see a green camera icon ...
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TreasHunt's Avatar
United States
2540 Posts
 Posted 06/18/2009  12:36 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add TreasHunt to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Dave
That is one great example of a Barber dime clashed obverse!

Thanks for showing
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