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Grading Standing Liberty Quarters~opinions~

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clembo's Avatar
United States
442 Posts
 Posted 07/31/2009  9:34 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add clembo to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
Hey folks,

I'm not usualy one to post a help me grade kind of post but I figured I might get some good advice and opinions with the Standing Liberty quarters. I'd love to see some Standing Liberty fans jump in on this one and maybe we can all learn a thing or two.

First off is this 1923 I picked up today.

Grading-Standing-Liberty-Quarters~opinions~
Grading-Standing-Liberty-Quarters~opinions~

What would you grade it? All four digits of the date are visible although not clear.

I have always had my ANA Grading Guide handy so let me qoute what the definition of a VG8 coin is.

"VG8. Well worn. Design is clear but flat and lacking details.

OBVERSE: Entire design is weak, and most details in gown are worn smooth. All letters and date are clear. Rim is complete. Drapery across breast is outlined. Bottom right star is worn flat.
REVERSE: About one third of the feathers are visible, and large feathers at ends of wings are well separated. Eye is visible. Rim is complete."

Now for F12.

"F12. Moderate to heavy even wear. Entire design is clear and bold.

OBVERSE: Gown details are worn nearly smooth across body, but show all sides. Right leg nearly flat and toe is worn. Breast is worn but visible. Date is clear and the rim is full. Outer shield is complete.
REVERSE: Eagle is evenly worn. Half of the wing feathers are visible although well worn in spots. Rim is full."

Now, other than the date which is "mushy" what would this coin grade? Even under the description of a G4 coin we see this: "Legend and date are weak but visible. Top of date may be worn flat."

So what is this coin? A G4? A VG8? An F12? Personally I'd put it VG10-F12. I am by no means an expert on these but do see my fair share of them.
This coin came from a hoard of quarters we recently bought. Over half of the SLQs had no dates although I could see strong mintmarks and F12 or better detail on some but no date is no date. I pulled at least half a dozen 1923 from this lot and most with just a whisper of the 3. Other than that VG or better detail.
Point here being that, although I respect and like the ANA guide, they've got it wrong when it comes to the date.
We just got a 19-D back from NGC. The last 9 is faintly visible. It graded at G6.

I really would love to hear thoughts and opinions on this. Especially from those that live for Standing Liberties. I like them but am still trying to figure them out.


Now for coins dated 1925 and later it becomes easier. The date was modified to avoid the heavy wear. Still they can be difficult.
I'm not going to quote ANA standards for this one. Just gonna ask what you think it would grade.

Grading-Standing-Liberty-Quarters~opinions~
Grading-Standing-Liberty-Quarters~opinions~

Thanks for your time and input.

clembo
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echizento's Avatar
United States
23731 Posts
 Posted 07/31/2009  9:56 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add echizento to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
1923, I'd grade as VG-10 thou it might go F-12, and the 1929 I'd grade as VF-25.
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yotie's Avatar
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3077 Posts
 Posted 08/01/2009  05:47 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add yotie to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Clembo I have seen what scans can do to these quarters and I am guessing the 29 may be an EF45-AU 50

but this is just a guess based on the face sheild and toes

Rest in Peace
johnny54321's Avatar
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4849 Posts
 Posted 08/01/2009  12:31 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add johnny54321 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
From what I understand, the ANA grading guide is stricter than modern TPG grading....so it depends on what you use as your source. I think a TPG would grade the first one F-12 or F-15. The second one I agree with Yotie at XF-45 to AU-50. It is a bit stronger than the example Yodie posted in his thread. The beads are clearer, the head is stronger, and if unmolested, it should have more luster.

All this to say, I'm far from an expert on these, just offering an opinion.
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clembo's Avatar
United States
442 Posts
 Posted 08/01/2009  6:52 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add clembo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
From what I understand, the ANA grading guide is stricter than modern TPG grading....so it depends on what you use as your source. I think a TPG would grade the first one F-12 or F-15. The second one I agree with Yotie at XF-45 to AU-50. It is a bit stronger than the example Yodie posted in his thread. The beads are clearer, the head is stronger, and if unmolested, it should have more luster.

All this to say, I'm far from an expert on these, just offering an opinion.


Excellent point Johnny54321 and part of the reason I did post this. I tend to agree with Echizento on the grades but what about a TPG?

The 1919-D we got back from NGC as G6 was a gift in my opinion. I do see a lot of these coins and usually well worn. Getting to the point where a pre 1925 that you can even tell what the date is merits at least a G4. Now that sure doesn't cut it in the ANA guide.

For years I have watched the 1927-S coin. Years ago I started feeling this date was way under rated so I started a small hoard. Have about 25 of them.
Anyway they did make a mice jump and I bought many G-VG examples. Then I started checking them out slabbed at shows and on ebay.
Now, this coin is known for weak strikes but many of the PCGS graded coins I saw graded as F12 are as weak or weaker than VGs that I bought raw.
Do I take a coin that I paid maybe $10 for and send it to PCGS in hopes of getting the F12 and suddenly a $35 retail coin is $90?

Honestly I have yet to slab one but think about it. Put a number on a "trusted" piece of plastic and the value goes up substantially.

If there's a series to do that with it is the Standing Liberties and Buffalo nickels.
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vermontensium's Avatar
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 Posted 08/01/2009  7:18 pm  Show Profile   Check vermontensium's eBay Listings Check vermontensium's eCrater Listings Bookmark this reply Add vermontensium to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I would also grade the 1923 a VG10+
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Jaobler's Avatar
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6383 Posts
 Posted 08/01/2009  7:59 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Jaobler to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I'd call the 1923 a F-15. The date passes for "complete" in the context of the pre-1925 issues. The 1929 has sharp detail plus strong obverse rim beads. Although it is otherwise comparable to the 1930 coin that Yotie posted the stronger beads bring it up to the EF-40 level IMO.

I like any SLQ but especially appreciate those in higher circulated grades. So many have been worn down to the point that they're basically just silver scrap.
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johnny54321's Avatar
United States
4849 Posts
 Posted 08/02/2009  02:33 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add johnny54321 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Do I take a coin that I paid maybe $10 for and send it to PCGS in hopes of getting the F12 and suddenly a $35 retail coin is $90?


I absolutely would! No harm in playing the TPG game when it works to your advantage. Modern TPG standards seem to be more mainstream these days since everyone is turning towards slabbed coins. Taking advantage of changes in the market's perception of how a coin is graded would be a smart business move.

However, if you want to sell to me based on the stricter standards, there would be no complaints here.

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yotie's Avatar
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3077 Posts
 Posted 08/02/2009  08:14 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add yotie to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
so may I ask at what grade do SLQ make the junk pile?
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clembo's Avatar
United States
442 Posts
 Posted 08/02/2009  2:34 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add clembo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
so may I ask at what grade do SLQ make the junk pile?


I hear ya Yotie believe me.

Do we ask the TPGs? Now a common date pre-25 with enough there to identify my boss would indeed sell as a cheap filler. Maybe $5-10 but when I look at the G6 19-D it really does meake me wonder. Someone will buy the plastic on that one but if we showed them same coin raw it would be a lot less.

Post 1925 is easier as are type II no dates in general. IF it's a common AG coin it's junk.

NOW perhaps we should do this test. I have carded up several 1917-S Type I at work. Type I and a mintmark. The only thing it can be is a 17-S.
Many have easy G-VG detail. I wonder what a TPG would grade it?

Original coins with decent detail. Just missing those four little numbers.
Why do I think of these things now I'm considering doing it.
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TreasHunt's Avatar
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2540 Posts
 Posted 08/03/2009  07:30 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add TreasHunt to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
as always, Clembo, nice coins.
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 Posted 08/03/2009  7:10 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Gary to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
1923 F-12 to some, I say VG-10
1929 Ef-40 at best The 1929 was one of the best strikes of the series. What some may call a weak strike is wear on this coin.

Gary
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