Wgcc

Nice pic scuba I used the same image but the other side ..I cropped it to enlarge it.. Looks really nice to me ,loads of luster... But again like anyones coins Unless in hand its so hard to see... Unless my eyes are bad I cant see anything wrong.... By the way what is whizzing ? new term for me

PCGS say
"Whizzing

Although it is used only occasionally, whizzing should be mentioned here, since light whizzing plus added toning can be deceptive. Whizzing is a technique in which surface metal is moved mechanically to create the illusion of luster. Heavy whizzing produces unnatural surfaces whose brightness does not resemble original luster. The "cartwheel" effect is replaced by a "sheen" that causes light to bounce off the surface differently, often with a diffused effect. When whizzing is light and is covered by natural or artificial toning, it is much more difficult to detect. If a coin lacks sharp detail but the luster appears full, light whizzing may be the culprit.

Magnification is the best way to differentiate weakly struck coins from worn-die and lightly whizzed coins. On weakly struck coins, flow lines will still be present and luster will still "cartwheel." Worn-die coins may not have much "cartwheel" but still may have radial flow lines often the result of die erosion. Whizzed coins will appear smooth, and because the flow lines have been disturbed, they will not have normal "cartwheel" luster, but rather a diffused look.

A sophisticated whizzing process is sometimes used on Proof coins, though PCGS has seen it on a few proof-like business strikes as well. This is a refinement of the process used to create the so-called "California Proof" Morgan and Peace dollars. The most common method involves the use of a high-speed drill, such as a dentist's drill, with some type of fine burr or attachment to "enhance" the surface and smooth away scratches, marks, and hairlines. Recently, PCGS has seen some very deceptive coins, mostly Proofs, with plated-looking surfaces, possibly produced by this method in combination with chemicals and/or heat. The plated appearance hides hairlines, planchet flaws, marks, and other defects. These surfaces have a "chromed" look that, once noticed, will appear very unnatural.

In yet another form of surface alteration, the surfaces of Proof coins are heated to actually melt the hairlines or other defects. This method may involve anything from a match held under the surface for a few seconds to a high temperature torch selectively applied to a specific area. Coins altered in this manner sometimes have a wavy look or different "depth" to the mirrored surface. These clues are especially noticeable on Proof gold coins, since the surfaces are so delicate. Also, many Proof gold coins have "orange-peel" surfaces that are flattened by this method. If the mirrored fields vary across the surface of a coin, heat treatment of the fields is often the cause. "

Thanks for the info.. I guess we learn something new everyday...If you have other great stuff I can learn, please toss it my way

I caught that return policy so.. I asked a question about that , and was told ICCS, PCGS ect..These coin are not stated as Certified and a return is no problem as long as it is returned the same way......I guess that takes care of that.. I also checked their feedback.Looks pretty good

Hi Richard, ya I see where your going with this.. But in all fairness If you bought a coin that someone stated was VF and valued at 500.00 and you get it ,,Now you look at it and your opinion is F12 ( as you said ) but the value is 200. for F12..... OK so if you only paid lets say 60.00 would you still return the coin and complain ? You see this has happened many time to me and sometimes the coin is actually better in hand.. So in that instance do you return the coin and say Excuse me you undergraded the coin and its worth more? I know in either instance I would nt , but thats me

But if the seller will take it back then I have no problem with trusting them..

I always tell a seller if I think they under graded a coin. Once in hand. I also point them in the right direction to find the info they need to improve their grading. As for Paying $60 for a $200/500 coin. I don't I would not bid on this particular item because the pictures are not clear as stated and the return policy implies grades are not an issue in the sale. I have chanced buying coins with bad pics in the past but usually from newer sellers. Some I have got great deals but again I will tell the seller. I have no problem returning a coin I paid $60 for if it is not as described even if the supposed book value is $200 I recently bought a 2 Cent coin that I knew to be cleaned even though it was not stated in the auction. I won the auction for $57 which is about the value of the coin in its cleaned state. The seller was extremely unhappy as he was under the impression the coin was worth over $150. I only buy coins I know at auction or on ebay. if my greater knowledge gives me a deal from a less knowledgeable seller then so be it. Its just as important for the seller to know what it is he is selling as for the buyer to know what it is he is buying.

Hi Richard, thats pretty much what she told me , thats why I was not worried.. I asked the same question from other ebay sellers and got shut down on the spot... NO RETURNS period...... I have emailed the seller and explained that if the pics were perhaps cropped it would be better ... I guess we will see if she sells more.... Anyhow thanks this has been informative and fun..

Take care and happy collecting...