| Author |
 Replies: 12 / Views: 1,515 |
|
|
Valued Member
United States
420 Posts |
Hello,
I want to start roll hunting and putting some of my finds in folders but I have a few questions and concerns. First, what do I look for? I'm not a grader, I couldn't grade a coin to save my life. I have tried roll hunting cents before and have found multiple coins of the same year and mint mark. So do I just look for what looks good to me? Also, how do you get the coins in the stupid hole!! I asked my local coin dealer and his response was, "You don't." If that is how he feels why does he have a whole wall of folders!?!?!? Any help would be appreciated. I think roll hunting would be fun.
Thanks,
Rich
|
|
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
7123 Posts |
Hey snitchard
I always keep multiples of what I find interesting or needed at the time, a person never knows who may need help later and having the coins to help is always cool.
folders are usually only by date and mint mark, if you see something on the coin that is out of the ordinary ask us we can help with the learning curve on what to look for.
as for getting the coin in the hole on the whitmans it can take a little practice but once you find the technique its no big deal.
I use a coin that is NOT going into the folder to press in first to size the hole , lay one edge into the hole press forward and down it will go in, leave it there for a couple of hours and then pop it out and put the coin you want in the hole in it will go in easy.
|
|
Valued Member
United States
369 Posts |
As far as cent rolls go, different people save different coins. Some look for errors, some look for wheat cents, some pre-1982 copper cents, etc. Personally, I pull any coin 1982 and older because they a copper. 1983 and newer cents (and some 1982) are copper plated zinc. I separate the pre-82 by decade (1960-69, 70-79, 80-82) and roll them up when I get 50 from that decade. It's arguable whether this will be beneficial or not; copper cents contain appx 1.5-2 cents worth of copper, BUT it's currently illegal to melt them for copper. BUT :) some believe that it will be legal to melt in the future, so they are saving them anyways. At worst, they can be sold for face value. I also pull any "S" mint pennies (San Francisco) as they were only made for circulation in 1968-1974. Some folks look for errors. This is a very broad subject. The only "errors" I have for cents are a 1998 Wide AM, and a slightly rotated 1991. (Yes I know a WAM is a variety, not an "error") Coppercoins has a good website (www.coppercoins.com) for identifying errors by date. Let's see, I had the folders for a while, and Metalman gave you great advice about fitting the hole with another coin first, but I too became frustrated with not only fitting problems, but the fact that you can't see the reverse side of the coins. SO, I got a Dansco album for ALL my Lincoln cents (1909-Date) These books cost about $25-30, BUT if you want to enjoy your collection and be encouraged to upgrade, the Dansco is much nicer than the folders. You can also get a Dansco for the memorials only (1959-date) if you're not ready to start on the wheaties yet, but they cost about the same. Obviously, if YOU like it, then pull it out. Go to a coin shop and pick up a couple bucks worth of 2X2s. That way when you find something "unique" just staple it into a 2x2 so it won't get lost. If you want to roll hunt something else besides cents, I recommend nickels or maybe half dollars. The halves are almost only hunted for silver (since halves don't circulate as much as other coins, silver can still be found pretty regularly) 1964 halves are 90% silver, and 1965-1970 halves contain 40% silver. Nickels are what I started with. They are a bit easier to fit into a hole in the folders (I still haven't upgraded to a Dansco yet for Jeffs) I usually keep anything 1959 and older. Same as cents, when I get a roll's worth of a decade, I roll em up. 1942-1945 Jefferson nickels have apx 35% silver and a large mint mark above the building on the reverse. These " War Nickels" can still be found once in a while, and they are one of my favorite coins. Hopefully this will help a little. Post up any questions you have. |
|
Valued Member
United States
369 Posts |
What I found helpful, too, especially when I was sorting wheaties, was I made a spreadsheet with square cells about 1 inch by 1 inch, and typed in the date and mm of each coin. Then I print the pages, lay them out, and make a stack of coins over the square corresponding to each coins' date. Then, when finished sorting/searching, pick out the best coin from each stack (best looking for you, regardless of grade) and put that one in your folder/Dansco. Then spend the rest, unless you want to stash away some copper, etc. Oh yeah, invest in a RedBook. You won't be sorry. It has all the mintage numbers, popular errors, and general info on all these coins and many, many more. |
|
Valued Member
United States
292 Posts |
Some great advice here! You know Metalman-even though I also found it a little frustrating to fit the coins in the folder, it never occurred to me to fit a different coin there first! Such a simple solution-makes me feel a bit sheepish now  . Another great reason I love this forum! |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1116 Posts |
snitchard you should really try to learn how to grade coins when I first started to collect I didn't want to learn because it seemed like a lot of work but I bought some grading books and learned. now I can't wait to sit down and grade coins
|
|
Valued Member
 United States
420 Posts |
Hello,
Thanks for all the great advice. Metalman, when you say use a different coin do you mean another cent or something different like a nickel or dime?
Texas collector, I love the spreadsheet idea, I'm going to give that a try!!
scott3270, the main reason I do not grade is because I'm visually impaired and that makes it hard to effectively grade. Otherwise I definitely would learn to grade.
Again, thanks for the amazing advice.
Rich
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
2520 Posts |
Quote:
Thanks for all the great advice. Metalman, when you say use a different coin do you mean another cent or something different like a nickel or dime? If you are building a cent set, use a different cent (pocket change) and press it into the hole. It will widen the hole to make it easier to get your "keeper" in the folder. |
|
Valued Member
United States
97 Posts |
good types of rolls I have discovered in my area are the nickel and halves. Just about any nickel in ms state older then '64 is worth keeping IMO. and there were the silver years, which can be found once and a while. As for the halves, finding a walker or franklin is a great feeling  , even the 40% halves from 65-70 are nice to come across . |
|
Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
For your information that person that said you don't has a few things short in his head. If your considering folders for your coins, the slots for the coins are what is called tapered. They are cardboard with slots and a paper backing. The cardboard is glued to the paper and the rear of the slots is usually shinny due to that glue. By tapered I mean the bottom of the slot is larger than the top or entry for the coin. This is why it is difficult to get the coins in to that slot. Once in they snap into place. Oddly enough a well worn coin will still fall out so people usually wet the glue with spit and it keeps the coins in place. Most people use their thumbs and some even a rubber or plastic hammer to get the coins in place. If you insist on using those folders, a trick is to take a coin you know is of no value and rub the edges all around for the spot you want to add a coin. This forces the uppper edge to open up more. Naturally this all is not really great for your coins. I suggest you simply put all your coins in plastic rolls until you can afford an Album. One of those things where you can see the front and back of each coin. Made by many companies such as Whitman, Dansco, Littleton, etc. As to which ones to save, as long as your not some kind of super, duper, fanatic with coins, let your eyes do the appraisal. The better the coin looks, the more you want to keep it. I also suggest you acquire a Red Book by Whitman Publishing for approximate values and conditions of coins. You may too want to ask relatives, neighbors, friends for any old coins too. |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1116 Posts |
Quote:
scott3270, the main reason I do not grade is because I'm visually impaired and that makes it hard to effectively grade. Otherwise I definitely would learn to grade.
I am truly sorry for my comment then I did not know that |
|
Valued Member
United States
420 Posts |
Quote:
I am truly sorry for my comment then I did not know that
scott3270, that is OK but it brings up yet another question and that is should I use my up close (6X) reading glasses or a 5X or 10X loupe when roll hunting, or am I not looking for "that much" detail in the coins? Thanks, Rich |
|
Valued Member
United States
272 Posts |
Quote:
OK but it brings up yet another question and that is should I use my up close (6X) reading glasses or a 5X or 10X loupe when roll hunting, or am I not looking for "that much" detail in the coins?
I would say use the highest magnification you are comfortable with. I just started roll hunting a few weeks ago and didn't use anything. My wife noticed I was always squinting at all the coins so she picked me up a magnifier from Barnes & Noble with a LED on the underside. It has a large area of lower magnification and a small area for higher. It had made a huge difference for me. Not only can I see more clearly, but I don't get a stiff neck like I used to. The light works great too. |
| |
Replies: 12 / Views: 1,515 |
|
Posted 01/10/2010 04:06 am
