What Is The Lowest Grade You Would Buy?

I guess its what you are trying to achieve, I don't think there is no minimum grade if it was a coin I wanted or needed. If I was trying to build a Bu set then MS-60 would be the lowest, if I was trying to build a AU and above set (like my 7070 album) then AU-50 is the minimum I would buy, but if I was just trying to fill holes then as long as you can see the date and know what the coin is and I could afford it I would buy it. If you are trying to build a set for more of a investment then I would buy the highest graded coin I could find and afford. as far as corrosion or any other problems, there is no place in my collection with a problem coin because no matter what it will always be a problem coin and when time to sell it will be a problem selling. Some series of coins are harder to find in problem free condition but they are out there and if all you can find is problem coins I would just save my money until I found one problem free. I could have bought 100 classic Head Large cents with problems but didn't because as I said a problem coin has no place in my collection

My 2-cents worth:
It depends on a number of factors. If you are independantly rich, go for the best! Getting back down to material world things, then one should buty the best you can afford, depending on two things: One, are you collecting for your inheritors, or are you clooecting for uour own pleasure? If for the heirs to, A. run out and sell right away. It thea be the case, get the cheapest you can. Case in point: None of my 'heirs" are collectors So for whom am I going to collect ?
B It depends on how old you are. Why? Because if you are young, and have most of your life ahead, then plan on goins slowly, but surely toward the best you can afford. you probably have time to do a good job. However, if you are an old fart, like me, your time is limited, and in my case, I collect to fill a set, or two, so I can say I have finished at least one set. Most folks will shy away from problem coins, and with good reason, as has been mentioned above. normally I would agree, and act accordingly, BUT, I am not a rich man. I live off a pension, and Social security, so my position is limited as to what I can do, not what I would LIKE to do. So, I work on sets of coins, and also problem coins. I have several sets of FE/IHC that are lacking the '77, and '09-S. Both are out of reach, even as G-8, ot problem, G-8. That is not to say that if a nice coin comes along, and I can afford to buy, Iwill pass. No way! It will replace one of my most "ugly', in that date! I consider a collection as "as many as possible" if not all". I don't think having a handful of dates, all AU, etc, as being a collection. Unless you are young, and just gertting started, then you are working on a collection. You may complete it in your furues, and have time to 'enjoy", or sell it, as an investment. Then you will have your money back, BUT, someone else will have the collection. I am happy, that I have been allowed to pursue, and achieve as much as I have, all considered. One of the kids have always said< "I want dad's car, and tools"! I do have two options: One put the collections in trust, for my great-greatgrandson. he was born this past August. by the time he is 21, there might not be any coins to collect, (zincolns, especially). The other: I'll be 85, my next birthday, and for my heirs, " if I can't take it with me, at least I'll have a ball while it lasts"!
Dick

Bryan, I don't think Dick was attacking your method of collecting, just stating that he can have fun just completing circulated sets. Not everyone has the income, even with saving to go after an AU Classic Head Cent. Anyway, I think there is room here for all types of collecting tastes.

I think we are all getting maybe a little too personal here. This is supposed to be a nice friendly chat about common interests. This is a hobby for me, not a business. It is true that there is a monetary commitment to it, but that's the case with many worthwhile things in life. I took a look at Bryan1315 Dansco 7070 that he was kind enough to share with the other members of this forum. I think it is a great set and never really considered collecting that way. But now that I see it, might give it a try. To tell the truth, I haven't cracked any of my certified coins out of their holders; nor am I tempted to do so. The crackout game, although undoubtedly a money maker for many, is exactly what I don't like---it's a game, in the same way that graded common stamps is supposed to really mean something monetarily. For the crackout game to work that means that the assigning of a grade to a coin is very much arbitrary---something I truly believe happens. Sort of cheapens things don't you think. Anyway, if you add up all of the graded stickers that Bryan shows on his 7070 and apply that to the PCGS price list you come up with about $20,000 a nice piece of change to be sure with the King of the Mountain being the 1803 cent, Those are very nice coins. My only point previously having been, that what Bryan1315 accomplished is a little more difficult to do if you are looking for sets up to the 1807 mintage because while all of the Half Cents and cents can be found and probably afforded in the condition mentioned with saving over time, you are going to run into some serious stumbling blocks in the quarter, half dollar and dollar series by the dates of 1796/1804; 1794/1796/1797; and 1794/1804 respectively. There we are not talking about $4000, a coin but 40-400000 or more a coin.

thanks for your note Bryan. I don't like problem coins either and agree completely with you about fakes. I have had extensive experience with stamps prior to coins and the amount of doctored stamps out there is truly amazing. I did however buy a slabbed 1799 large cent by ANACS with a small degree of corrosion. I don't see too many certified 1799's---and was not going to buy this uncertified.

Welcome!!

I honestly think you need to set out your goals for the particular collection before you start and then stick to it. There is no correct answer.

I am also building a 7070 set. Bryan's set is absolutely stunning and I would love to own a set like that. But for me, it is currently out of reach. I had decided that for my 7070, I had the following overall goal:

Build a 7070 where all of the major details of each coin were visible.

For me then, this means that I am looking for coins graded VF or better. I will accept coins with some minor problems such as light old cleanings, rim bumps, light corrosion, etc. if the coin still has a pleasing and natural appearance.

I'd love to build a 7070 for example in AU but I'd rather build one in VF or better and complete it then have an AU set that I would never realistically complete.

What I guess I am saying is that Bryan set a goal he could achieve and so it's a great goal and a great set. You just need to figure out what would be a great goal and great set for you. And I think you need to consider what you can realistically achieve.

Good luck - those early 19th century coins are tough but beautiful!

Ken

The lowest grade coin I ever purchased was a raw G-4 1916 D Mercury dime. I would love to be able to purchase a better grade, but my budget doesn't permit me. I am not upset that I had to settle for a G-4. It was all I could afford at the time and I was still proud to add it to my collection.

I certainly enjoy the input from all of the forum members, offering up their experiences, suggestions, and thoughts. I also agree with Eaglefoot that even those heavily worn coins, particularly the late 18th century and very early nineteenth century ones have a lot of character and of course it is always interesting to contemplate, or maybe the word is fantasize, about what famous person in our nations history might have carried in their pocket---I say this particularly for the low mintage higher denomination coins. For the early half dollars and dollars (pre 1804) I would say the highest formal grade that I have is VF35, although for the 1802 half and dollar it would be on the high end for that grade and the others range between F12 and VF 30. The 1796 quarter is PCGS VG08 and the 1804 is probably a F15