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Replies: 26 / Views: 3,746 |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
2424 Posts |
right. my questions was, would there be more value if used graded coins in the 7070. I have read mixed reviews on that
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
11951 Posts |
I guess I am not sure what you mean.
Buying raw coins and putting them into a 7070 album, does not change the price or value of the coin.
Most collectors put sets together for the enjoyment of collecting. In my opinion, if you buy good problem free coins at a good price and hold for years, you should make money if you choose to sell. In most cases the higher grade coins will go up more, although I never worked out the percentages.
Also when selling, I think more is made by selling individual coins not the whole set.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4085 Posts |
About building a set in AU:You certainly can get some AU coins; later dates are very affordable in AU. To do an "all AU" set is possible but can get very expensive with a few of the coins pushing $1000 each. About using raw vs. slabbed/graded coins:I have built my 7070 using mostly raw coins. I have used slabbed coins for highly counterfeited coins such as the seated and Trade dollars as well as a couple of others where the price was right. Slabbed coins tend to be "problem-free" - uncleaned, etc. They also are a little more expensive and when you break them out of the slab, yes, I do believe you lose some value. I have no problem with slabbed coins but I do think that there are slabbed coins that have been cleaned or otherwise messed with just as there are raw coins that have the same issues. I try to buy "the coin". Sometimes I see coins in slabs and think "how in the world did that ever get in that slab? Obviously cleaned, covered in hairline scratches, etc. I am very picky and look at A LOT of coins before I actually make a purchase. A comment about your goals for the 7070 and as a collector in general:I think you need to decide what your goals are. I can't answer that for you, but I can tell you what mine are. For me, I have always been interested in the concept of getting "one" of each type of coin. This goes all the way back to childhood. When I discovered the 7070, I thought "perfect". I think you mentioned paying $15 for 11 Merc Dimes. Which is fine, but to me, I'd rather buy one MS-64 Merc Dime for my 7070 then have several lower grades. Again, there is nothing wrong with collecting lots of coins. It just goes back to "what are your goals?". I also decided that I wanted to be able to see all of the major details on each coin. This led to a minimum grade of VF in general, with XF being a "stretch" goal. I also wanted a pleasing appearance. For some, this means uniformity of grade. For me, it's a "fuzzier" concept. I want to show a progression of the history of the coins, so having toned VF coins and AU or even BU or proof coins for the newer types doesn't cause me any worries. I like that look. Others may take a different course. Viva la differance! I started my type collection without the 7070. It felt out of control to me and was difficult to look at. I liked the way the 7070 organized my collection. But one option is to start to collect type coins and add the 7070 later on if you are sufficiently interested. There are many paths to follow in coin collecting! Best regards, Ken p.s. After I previewed this, I realize this is more like a blog than a post! Sorry for the length!
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
2424 Posts |
thank you Ken for the very helpful input.
my goals feel similar to yours, but I can get side tracked easily. lol
i want me set to be aesthetically pleasing= VF-XF some AU. I know that with my budget, a lot of the coins are attainable in xf-au condition.
one other question about the types. THE YEAR. maybe this is personal preference, but I would assume that the years make no difference. how have some of you decided on what years to get for some of the different types?
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Rest in Peace
United States
4849 Posts |
Good luck with your quest SDcoin. I found that about 25%+ of the album can be filled with high grade coins for <$15. You could even fill some of it practically with pocket change, since the modern types are included as well as the classic types. I would start with these, and then when you get into the early 20th century stuff, it starts getting more expensive. I started my type set with a VF+ goal, but then switched to XF/AU or higher about half way down the road. This was because all of the moderns were already AU/BU, and I wanted the detail level to be somewhat consistent. Tne consequence though was that my budget had to go up drastically, and I slowed down quite a bit with my purchases. I don't regret it at all though, nor do I regret the ones I've cracked from their slabs. One thing I think would be really cool is to do an F/VF type set that is consistent all the way through the modern series! At this point, the tough coins would be reversed, as you'd be hard pressed to find an original F/VF sacajewa dollar or State Quarter. :-) Just a thought. As stated though, you will be best off to set a goal and stick with it. VF/XF is an awesome goal and is very doable, but there will be several coins in the $200-$600 range to prepare for.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
14454 Posts |
Quote: To do an "all AU" set is possible but can get very expensive with a few of the coins pushing $1000 each. wish I could find 100 problem free AU Classic Head large cents at that price, I would buy them all. the one I settled for in mine was closer to $2000.00 and the one I have my eye on now in AU-55 is over $4000.00 and these are common dates
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
2424 Posts |
bryan, how much, avg did you pay, if you do not mind me asking, for your large cents, capped busts, Half Dimes, most 19th century stuff... I will most likely settle for VF-XF for those
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4085 Posts |
Quote: wish I could find 100 problem free AU Classic Head large cents at that price, I would buy them all. the one I settled for in mine was closer to $2000.00 and the one I have my eye on now in AU-55 is over $4000.00 and these are common dates Wow - I can see I haven't checked prices since I made "my list" 3 years ago! I have a corrosion-free, nice for the grade G+ (might make VG) in that slot that I got for a bargain price of $30.  I will probably upgrade it at some point but some other things are going to have to come first. I have a similar coin in the Draped Bust slot. Same story on the upgrade there as well. The two early large cents plus the two Seated dollars will run you more than all the other coins in the album combined. Especially true in the higher grades. Some coins have a very steep price slope as the grade increases. My Classic Head is an 1810. According to Numismedia, it's $51 in G4, $108 in VG8, $600 in VF20, $1170 in XF40 and $1890-$4030 in the various AU grades. YIKES!! I think the old 1810 is just fine for awhile!
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Valued Member
United States
89 Posts |
Quote: I want me set to be aesthetically pleasing= VF-XF some AU. I know that with my budget, a lot of the coins are attainable in xf-au condition. i officially decided to start a 7070. I have few coins to start me off in the right direction. I realize that this will take some time but will nevertheless be fun. its a cool piece of history to have in my collection.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1409 Posts |
Good luck to you guys pursuing the 7070. When I'm down to 2-3 coins in my SLQ Dansco, I'll probably turn towards a 7070 while I wait for those last SLQ opportunities.
It'll be fun watching your progress.
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Valued Member
United States
54 Posts |
I keep thinking about starting one of these. I should probably fill a few of my modern books first, though. I definitely want to be in a position where I can be sure that I'll never sell it once I get started. This is not a set that you should aspire to complete unless you fully intend to keep it forever.
Edited by artyboy 04/22/2010 9:18 pm
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Replies: 26 / Views: 3,746 |