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Replies: 14 / Views: 2,888 |
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Valued Member
United States
277 Posts |
So I'm working on finishing up my Roosevelt's and I want to move in to Mercury dimes. Where should I start? The end and work back, the begining and work forward? I'm lost on where to start
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5832 Posts |
That depends on the qualities you're looking for, but IMO anything above 1931 is best to collect in full bands, as majority is still affordable in MS65-67, except for the elusive one's.
I believe that value wise over time, this is the way to go, below that year, cost can be challenging.
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Valued Member
 United States
277 Posts |
Thanks for the tip, I like your site by the way
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5832 Posts |
Thanks! I wish I could spend more than in my inventory. I am having a tough time taking pictures, maybe scanning it, but lacks qualities of the actual coin.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1801 Posts |
Just start saving and when you have enough go for the 16d and two 21 coins. They are the ones that continue to soar in value, the rest you can fill in over time.
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Valued Member
United States
489 Posts |
Mercs were first set I completed. Lots of fun completing it. Mid grade set w/ 1916d ag. Hope to upgrade it soon. Mercs have a lot of character. Liberty with a winged cap representing freedom of thought. Too cool.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1510 Posts |
Quote: Just start saving and when you have enough go for the 16d and two 21 coins thats one way-- but you book will be empty for a while being the 16D is $1,000  I did the opposite--get the stuff that is affordible and then get the big stuff (or don't)
Retired USAF 1983-2003
Edited by Coinstar 02/11/2011 11:48 pm
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Rest in Peace
United States
4849 Posts |
I like your site to Macmercury!
The 1916-d is worth more than the rest of the set combined in any circulated grade. It is very important that you only buy a 16-d certified by NGC, PCGS, ANACS, or ICG unless you really know the diagnostics. There are more fakes then genuine examples. This is the one that most sets lack, and will always be the crown jewel of a merc dime collection. Good luck!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3283 Posts |
I think the best and most economical way to start any collection is to buy a partial set in a nice album. You usually get nice coins for near melt and a dansco or whitman thrown in for free.
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Valued Member
United States
225 Posts |
Some people will start with the Key dates, as those can increase in value over time, and the sooner you get them the chances are you might get them at the best price you can early on while working on the set. Some people will collect by what comes available, and then upgrade as better coins come available. There is no right or wrong way, do what you feel comfortable with. If you are considering a complete uncirculated set buy the best quality you can afford. Some of the early dates are rare in higher uncirculated grades. When I did my complete uncirulated set (all in PCGS holders) my goal was to have coins with a minimum of MS63, with the exception of the 1916-D which I settled for AU-50; my set ranges from MS-63 to MS-68 with a mixture of no bands and full bands again the lone exception is the 16-D in AU-50. Some people like a well matched set and put everything together in one solid grade, so all the coins are something like VF-30 or all coins in MS66FB. The grading companies seem to be tougher on uncirculated early date Mercury dimes and about right on later dates. My goal with my variety set (I currently have the #1 complete variety set -no bands- at PCGS site) was to have the first completed set in any grade, so some of my variety coins are circulated. I will upgrade as uncirculated coins become available. It is a fun set to put together and I hope you have fun doing it no matter what way you decide to go. Winged Liberty Dimes are the prettiest US minor coin the mint has ever produced. Here is one for you to ponder. 1919-S MS66+ PCGS Graged. 
Edited by arsave 02/12/2011 09:06 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4416 Posts |
That 1919-S is a beauty .... appears to have a gentle splash of toning, too.
There's some good advice given herein.
I've long looked at this set in essence as being two sets (I'm not a millionaire). The 1934-45 set is relatively inexpensive to assemble in high grade; this, but for the overdates if included. To me, these later beauties seem under-priced. I think that a nicely matched set, 1916-31, looks great, as arsave suggested for a goal. Logically, one should consider the grade of the 1916-D that they can afford to invest in and work from there on a set. Sure, you can always upgrade, forming additional sets in the process, but wouldn't that money be better invested in advancing the #1 set? Just a thought from this humble oldtimer ....
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Valued Member
United States
254 Posts |
My advice would be to buy 1934 and above first because a. They're the cheapest and b. They all can be found in ms and full bands (other than 1945) for a reasonable cost. Also, this way you will learn how to grade and a mistake will not be too costly. please stick to a PCGS or NGC certified 1916-d as there are way too many fakes, some of which are 50 years old and have been intentionally worn to AG condition.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3592 Posts |
I bought a nice starter set last year for $169...the 16-d and 41/42 are fake...but hey....all I have to do is upgrade one by one.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5832 Posts |
I need more time to spend on my site, but job and family matters is getting in the way.
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Valued Member
 United States
277 Posts |
I thank you all for your opinions and ideas. I think I'm going to start with low grades and build a set then upgrade later
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Replies: 14 / Views: 2,888 |
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