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Replies: 14 / Views: 1,729 |
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Valued Member
United States
337 Posts |
So I am working up the courage to get the album and begin putting this set together. I am in the brainstorming and first stages so forgive my lack of information at the time. I don't have many of the coins. How do you guys choose which dates to put in the album? Do you choose semi keys, the most common dates? Next I was born in 1990 so I thought it would be really cool to get a silver eagle from 1990 for that hole, and 1990 coins for the modern coins, should I buy a mint set, a proof set, or find really nice examples in circulation? Is 1990 a year that is more expensive for some reason? Just a few questions for you guys to help me out with. I have 2 commemorative half dollars I am getting from a trade in a few days, so I am going to start building up coins for the album. Advice will help me a lot. 
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Valued Member
 United States
337 Posts |
also how much does a silver eagle usually go for... I know they change based on silver value but do they carry a premium over silver?
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Moderator
 United States
14463 Posts |
ASE's, they might been a little above melt/spot price. If you don't get key dates, maybe between $40-60
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Pillar of the Community
United States
524 Posts |
I don't think 90' is a key on anything. I can't afford key dates for my 7070 so I'm trying to get the best quality I can afford for each spot. I am using proof coins for some of the spots only because I like the way they look. I will also use silver in spots I can like the 76' coins and the Ike.
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Valued Member
 United States
337 Posts |
I forgot about the 40 percent bicentenial coins, very glad you brought that up.
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Valued Member
 United States
337 Posts |
for my commemorative half dollars I have 2 on the way from a CCF trade -1986 liberty proof (my grandparents were immigrants from Hungary in WW2) -the olympic gymnast proof (came with the trade above and I really like the look of the coin) -then I want to get the 1994 world cup coin (played soccer my whole life and still do) post in want to buy section about this -and for the 4th I think the ww2 50th anniversary coin or George Washington 250th birth anniversary. they both look really neat and both had a huge effect on our history. one is silver, one is not another note, none of the old silver commemorative coins strike my fancy, I just am not drawn to any of them like the newer commemorative coins, anyone else feel this way? oh well off to do more research.
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Moderator
 United States
14463 Posts |
I have two old silver commemorative coins: 1926 Sesquicentennial of America Independence, and 1925 Stone Mountain Memorial (my avatar)
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Moderator
 United States
187950 Posts |
Here is a thread on my 7070... https://goccf.com/t/82365It is nothing special, and that is my point. You can put anything in there you want! I like the idea of using your birth-year coins for the moderns.  In my opinion, there is no need to go for key dates when common dates look just as good in the holes. The real key is to have fun!
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Valued Member
United States
81 Posts |
I am always working on my Type set. I try to get the best coin I can afford to fill the holes and upgrade as often as I can. Having your birth year, heritage and interests is a great idea, I would keep it up. In my set I try to get either the first or last date for the coin slot. I do not have any Pictures of my set because I am still learning how to get great pics. If you are able, join a local coin club for great deals, or frequent a coin shop and look at the bid boards. Hope this helps. James
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1817 Posts |
The 7070 is my "this 'n that" set, which it takes me years in between filling the difficult holes. Right now I am in the hunt for an XF/AU Seated $1.00 that does not look obviously cleaned or whizzed. For some obscure reason I am only looking at 1843 coins. Generally if its a common obsolete series, 20th Century, say Franklin halves, I chose a nice BU key, 1949-S. Other great years to concentrate coins on is 1837, 1873.
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Valued Member
United States
273 Posts |
I've been working on my 7070 for about 6 months and have it half filled. I'm at a point now where all that's left is the harder coins so I'll be lucky to fill a hole every month or two. The 7070 is no easy undertaking for sure.
You can get a 1990 mint set for pretty cheap (under $10 I think) to fill the modern coin spots, and a 1990 Silver Eagle should set you back no more than spot + $5 or so (right now around $40 - $42).
I'm going for the highest grade coin I can afford for each of the series. But you do what you want!
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Valued Member
United States
64 Posts |
Like many I try to get the best coins I can. For the moderns I got all proofs, including a proof of my State Quarter.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
14454 Posts |
when I started my 7070 album I didn't really care about if they were key date or even semi key dates, I just wanted them to all be in problem free condition and grade at least AU-50. Now I did chose one date over another on certain coins just because I like a certain date over another for various reasons but that wasn't my goal when I started the album
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4085 Posts |
I went with common date coins for my 7070 - it's a tough enough set as it is without making it any tougher!
I like your idea of putting 1990 coins in the modern slots; I have 1973 coins in mine because I got a mint set as a kid then and saved those coins all these years. A mint set is a good way to get nice coins but you could pull them from circulation too - could make for a fun hunt.
It's a big undertaking but makes for a great set.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
759 Posts |
My 7070 coins range from one AG (Seated Half) to Proof at the moment. I placed the best example of each I had in the album. With the less expensive moderns, they are all Unc to Proof, year not important, but I always went with silver. The rest are problem-free as defined by me, which means the Seated Liberty dollar with an old cleaning makes the cut. I generally wanted full rim and mostly legible examples. but there are exceptions. The 3 cent nickel is probably G w/schmutz, but it came from my grandfather, so it's never leaving. You'll finds some types where the cost doesn't increase much or at all for lower mintage examples, and in those cases, I opted for lower mintage years. Dad was a Marine, so I picked the 2005 silver dollar. I didn't have a single coin pre-1800, so I went with a 1798 Draped Bust Large Cent. Didn't have anything W mint, so it was a W mint ASE. I don't have any CC coins, so I'm going to upgrade the Seated Half to a better grade CC example. There really is a reason behind most in the album, but it's only evident to me. So there are no rules or make your own. I'm considering skipping the commens since I'm not into them. Might substitute other halfs, I don't know yet. Just enjoy the challenge. My only regret? Not returning the 1875-S 20 cent piece that looks like a kid took a wire brush to it (OK, it's not quite THAT bad). I've finally learned that if I'm not happy with a coin at first sight, I never will be. A $40 mistake there, but someday I'll upgrade and someone here will get a chance at a hole filler. 6 holes to go for me. Like I said, enjoy the trip.
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Replies: 14 / Views: 1,729 |
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