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Replies: 9 / Views: 981 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1582 Posts |
This is another of my well-circulated Morgans. I inventoried it at F-12, but, now, I'm starting to doubt my own judgement.  Would you agree it's an F-12, or do you think I should relist it as maybe a VG-10? Thanks for your help. Ralph Image: 1887 S.jpg80.64 KB Image: 1887 S Rev.jpg84.6 KB
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
This one split-grades. VG10 obverse, F12 reverse for net VG10.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2254 Posts |
SuperDave, since this is coin grading practice, I have a request. Can you put into the words something like the first three things that came to mind when you looked at each side of the coin? Example:
1. Liberty still visible 2. Hair lines worn
Things like that. This will help me understand more easily how you guys/gals can look at something and put a grade on it so fast. I realize experience and redundancy are key, but If I look at things and think the wrong thing, that is not good. Bad practice will result in bad grading.
Thanks for your time and help,
Tighe
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
quote: Originally posted by tights24
SuperDave, since this is coin grading practice, I have a request. Can you put into the words something like the first three things that came to mind when you looked at each side of the coin? Example:
1. Liberty still visible 2. Hair lines worn
Things like that. This will help me understand more easily how you guys/gals can look at something and put a grade on it so fast. I realize experience and redundancy are key, but If I look at things and think the wrong thing, that is not good. Bad practice will result in bad grading.
Thanks for your time and help,
Tighe
I grade circulated coins strictly according to the standards set forth by James Ruddy in his book, "Photograde." It is the almost-universal standard, and may be had for less than $15. I strongly urge you to acquire it. For Morgans, here are my priorities. Obverse: Most importantly, what percentage of the hair lines are still visible? Here, I am more worried about the hair away from the ear, because the hair above the ear disappears quickly as wear happens, and it's also affected by strike quality. Reverse: First, how much wing detail is left? For higher grades, the same question applies to breast feathers. For higher AU coins, I tend to concentrate on the reverse to determine whether the coin is AU or MS, because certain details on the reverse show wear while not necessarily being affected by strike quality. Among these are the very top edges of the wings, the eagle's neck feathers, and talons. That's a snapshot of my thought processes for circulated coins. I keep a copy of Photograde within reach, and in cases where my opinion of a coin disagrees with Ruddy's, I defer to his opinion. For uncirculated coins, I default to my own personal experience with Morgans, and at all times keep a window open to Heritage Coins' Auction Archives to research examples of the coin in a similar grade. Especially with Morgans, it's imperative that you have access to specific year data because, for instance, the grading standards between an 1880-S and a 1902-O are radically different due to strike quality. That doesn't mean that the '02 can get away with more marks on the cheek (although I see CC coins getting away with it), but rather that a certain MS strike quality on an '02 would be EF-AU on an 1880-S.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2254 Posts |
Awesome info. I will definitely have to look into a copy of the book. Thanks once again for the info and the education. Hopefully I am not the only one this will help as I feel rather selfish asking you to explain.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1582 Posts |
Dave, You recommended the Photograde book to tights24 - I've got the ANA Grading Standards, and that's what I've been using while learning how to grade. Do you think Photograde is the better book? Ralph
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
quote: Originally posted by Ralph
Dave, You recommended the Photograde book to tights24 - I've got the ANA Grading Standards, and that's what I've been using while learning how to grade. Do you think Photograde is the better book?
Ralph
I cannot answer that, as I have no access to ANA's grading standards. I would guess, given that you're usually right on with your grading these days, that those standards are not too bad. 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7123 Posts |
Hi Ralph
I have and use both the guides,, However on MS morgans I have found them both to a little less than accurate. They are more accurate with the circulated grades.
Some adjustment needs to be made varying by Mint and Date it seems that experiance is the best teacher for to learn the individual characteristics of the Mint State morgans in those regards.
Rick
Rick
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1582 Posts |
Dave, that puffed my chest out a mite.  Considering that no more than a few months ago, I was green as a gourd when it comes to grading. Thanks - I appreciate the compliment. Ralph
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1582 Posts |
Metalman, Based on the info, and assistance I've gotten here on the forum, I would say the highest grade I have in my Morgans is MS-63, and on my income, I don't think I'll be worrying over the higher grades for quite awhile, so the book I have serves me well.  Ralph
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Replies: 9 / Views: 981 |
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