Requesting Help To Appraise And Sell Older Coin Collection.

Okay, I've read through that and is now in the middle of compiling a list. I'll be back some time later with it. Thank you for your expedient reply.

I've compiled a list of the coins that I've been led to believe after some internet searching on each individual type of coin. Some (like the swedish gold coin) I'm sure is worth a fair bit, the rest I'm less certain about. Would be great with some extra opinions before I approach a coin dealer, so I know what I'm doing, at least to some degree.

I will produce pictures of any/all coins upon request, but i'd rather not completely flood the forum with pictures from the get-go, especially considering how new I am.

Also, there are quite a lot more coins, which I've pretty much already dismissed as useless (like franc from just before france switched to Euros, modern british coins etc.. Feel free to ask about the rest in case I did overlook something.)

Edit: I have updated the lists details according to Matteproof's comments. Thank you for correcting me.

Swedish coins:

1, Oscar II, 20 kr., 1884, gold, Mint condition (zero scratches or dents. still shine like a mirror)

1, 1949, TvÃ¥ Ã-re, Mint mark is a tiny viking ship?

US coins:

2, 1922 and 1923, Peace Silver Dollar, Good condition (all thin lines etc. intact. not much shine though. smudge on one of them

(reddish. assuming washable mush, not miscoloring)), '22 have no mint mark, '23 have S mint mark.

2, 1972 and 1974, Ike Silver Dollar, Great condition (all details intact, most shine intact), One of the planets are apparently a

Type 2? (islands dipping down to the left instead of right), Mint mark is FC?

4, 1967, 1971, 1991 and 1997, Washington quarter Dollar, Decent conditions (1967 have little shine left, but details are still mostly intact), '67 have no mint mark, '74 have a round dot as mint mark?, '91 and '97 D Mint mark.

1, 1964, Liberty Five Cents, Okay condition (still shines, but details on building/hair seems worn off), D mint mark.

5, 1977, 1981, 1990. 1998 x 2, Roosevelt One Dime, Okay condition (Probably circulated, but no details worn off, and '81 and '90

seems especially strongly marked on reverse side), '90 P Mint mark, all others D Mint Mark.

6, 1980-1997, Lincoln One Cent, 1980 no mint mark, all others D mint mark.


Danish Coins:

1, 1925, Christian X, 2 Kroner, Good condition, HCN(heart) GJ. marks.

2, 1925 and 1929, Christian x, 1 Krone, Good Condition, '25 are HCN(heart) GJ marks, '29 are N(heart) GJ marks.

5, 1928 x 3, 1937 and 1940, Christian X, 5 Øre, Decent condition, GJ (on front), (heart) N (on reverse) marks.

2, 1927 and 1931, Christian x, 2 Øre, Good Condition, '27 have (heart)HCN mint marks, '31 have (heart)N mint marks.

2, 1949 x 2, RF IX 25 Øre, Good and Bad conditions, N(heart)B mint marks.

1, 1969, Frederik IX 5 Kroner, Decent condition. C(heart)B mint marks.


British Coins:

1, 1985, Elizabeth II One Pound Coin, PLEIDIOL WYF I'm GWLAD (cross) along the rim. Reverse face is Leek and Crown (which I belive

is a slightly rarer proofing issue coin of the normal common coin?), O.K. Condition (Clearly circulated, but not miscolored, still

have a bit of shine, and Reverse Side (pretty one) is very well preserved), D-G-REG-F-D markings. If that's not Mint mark, then no

mint mark.


Italian Coins:

2, 1957 and 1959, 100 Lire coins, Great condition, R mint mark.

2, 1955 x 2, 50 Lire coins, Great condition, R mint mark.


German Coins:

1, 1949, Bank Deutcher Länder (not bundesrepublik deutchland), 10 pfennig, Decent Condition, Mint mark D

1, 1963, Bundesrepublik Deutchland, 1 Deutcher Mark, Good condition, Mint mark F.


Spanish Coins:

1, 1957, Francisco Franco, 5 PTAS, Great condition (no missing details, star number and banner text clear), Star number is 75, no

mint mark apparent.


French Coins:

1, 1944, Double Bladed Axe reverse side, 1 Franc, Good condition, mint mark is a B and an L written together into one symbol.

It's also worth mentioning that the Ikes aren't necessarily "silver" dollars. If when viwed from the edge, you can see a copper color, then they're clad like all the bulk of modern U.S. coinage, and in that cse, like the quarters and dimes you list (as well as the nickel and cents) are basically worth their face value. If the Ikes are really as nice as you say, maybe there'd be a slight premium.

The Peace dollars you have, while 90% silver, are common dates and would have to be in extraordinry condition to command more than the 15x face value that dealers here in the U.S. typically pay for them (that of course, being somewhat less than what they subsequently retail for).

I think at this juncture, pictures of at least the reverses and edges of the Ikes would be very helpful. There's a high relief variant of the 1972 clad Ike that is scarce. Also, be aware that if one of the Ikes is silver, that'd only be to the tune of 40%.

Hi Danishcoins - welcome to the Forum!

The 1985 British pound coin you describe is the normal circulation issue and is only worth face value. These coins were all struck at The Royal Mint in Llantrisant, South Wales, and have no mintmark.

The French 1944 aluminium one franc sounds like the standard Paris Mint issue which is of very little value. The letters 'LB' are actually the initials of the designer, Lucien Bazor. This coin does indeed exist with B and C mintmarks (for Beaumont-le-Roger and Castelsarrasin), but these would be located to the left of the axe.

The German, Italian and Spanish coins sound to me like fairly common pre-Euro coins, but I am sure that one of the CCF experts can give further details. I certainly used to spend a lot of 1957 (*75) 5-peseta coins when I lived over there in the early 1980s - the '75' in the star is actually the year of issue - the 1957 date under Franco's head never changed from year to year.

@danishcoins:
I did not mean that the jewelry piece itself was terrible; the poor execution of the original coin's design on the jewelry piece is what I called terrible.
http://www.goldsovereigns.co.uk/for...georgev.html
compare the jewelry piece to the real deal. You'll see what I mean.

Hi danishcoins - another collector from Denmark here! I also got one of these "prize medal for jewellery" in a batch of old inherited coins from my great-grandmother. I did some tests and had people look at it - mine is not solid gold, but is plated in a thin layer of gold. You can see it at this link

Not much help so far as to how to sell off those coins.
I do see a sort of problem. Since your in Denmark, postage, handling, insurances, etc. may not be something you will not like. I don't know what the rules are there for shipping or mailing coins to other countries. May not even be possible. May cost a lot of money and more than the coins are worth.
For example if someone in the USA wanted to buy a few of your Silver Dollars, how much would it cost for postage, insurances, etc. Would a buyer be willing to pay for that? And too there are charges for ebay and paypal if you use them so you would have to look into that.
More bad news is the cost of shipping materials. Padded Envelopes, something to hold the coins in place, etc.
I really don't know what the laws are there about shipping coins or currency out of the country but I've heard some countries will not allow that. And too, what about the laws in a country your sending to?
And as to prices. If you look up places on line such as Numismedia, the PCGS web site, etc. you'll find a all sorts of differences in prices. You have to realize that those are all GUIDES. Not real values, just GUIDES. There is no real price on a coin except what it is in face value. Anything over that is just a sort of guess. There are books, magazines, etc. with coin values and prices but those too are just GUIDES.
The best thing to do is spend a real lot of time on ebay looking up what they say is a grade and a price. Not necessarily realistic, but better than others. Once you get an idea of what you have and want, about the only place to get started selling.