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Replies: 20 / Views: 3,039 |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
 Don't get carried away so early in this hobby. So many do that and loose interest. It's not necessary to run out and get a pile of books that may just end up on a shelf and never read. Just take your time and look around at what interests you. There is really no hurry. Many of those coins will wait for you.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2273 Posts |
Time don't fly, it bounds and leaps.
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Moderator
 United States
189537 Posts |
Quote: Does modern begin when they switched from allegorical to political figures on coins In my opinion, this. It is also how CCF has the Classic and Modern US forums divided.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
17884 Posts |
Quote: Does modern begin when they switched from allegorical to political figures on coins When modern begins varies from one person to another. In my case the switch to "modern" happened in 1836 when they switched from hand cut/punched dies and screw presses, to hubbed dies and steam presses.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2273 Posts |
Quote: When modern begins varies from one person to another. In my case the switch to "modern" happened in 1836 when they switched from hand cut/punched dies and screw presses, to hubbed dies and steam presses. Everything is perspective. When I started in 1957 I thought of a '50-D nickel as virtually ancient. Then in 1965 no one hated clad more than I so there were no "coins" after 1964 so everything else was 'classic". Then in 2006 I got interested in pre-history and the great pyramids and now all coins are ultra-modern. I went through various points in between as well. n
Time don't fly, it bounds and leaps.
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Valued Member
 United States
77 Posts |
The way I break down the modern, Late modern and contemporary line for each denomination is as follows: (This could become modified as I gain more knowledge about moderns.) 1) Lincoln Cents: 1909 to 1958=Early modern. 1959 to 1982=Modern. 1982 to 2008=Late Modern. 2009 to present=Contemporary 2) Jefferson nickels: 1938 to 1967=Early Modern. 1968 to 2003=Modern. 2004 to present=Contemporary 3) Roosevelt dimes: 1946 to 1964=Early modern. 1965 to 1979=Modern. 1980 to present= Late modern 4) Washington quarters; 1932 to 1964=Early modern. 1965 to 1979=Modern. 1980 to 1998=Late modern. State, territorial and national parks Quarters of 1999 to present = Contemporary 5) Half Dollars: Franklin half dollars of 1948 to 1963 and Kennedy half dollars of 1964=Early Modern. 1965 to 1970=Late early modern. 1971 to 1979=modern. 1980 to present Late modern 6) Dollars: Eisenhower dollars of 1971 to 1978 = Modern. Susan B. Anthony dollars of 1979 to 1981 & 1999=Late modern. Sacagawea, Native American and Presidential dollars of 2000 to present=Contemporary.
Edited by rbjr85 04/21/2018 08:45 am
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
17884 Posts |
Like I said everyone defines modern differently.
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Valued Member
 United States
77 Posts |
Quote: Like I said everyone defines modern differently. That's true. You could also over complicate tings by dissecting it all a little too much such as dividing post 1998 quarters into Early contemporary for 1999 to 2009 and contemporary for 2010 to present. The question is: When does it become too complicated and when does it become too simplified? What about the Bicentennial coins of 1975 and 1976? Where do they fall on the dividing line? How about the Westward Journey nickels of 2004 and 2005? Are they Early contemporary, contemporary or transitional? Does contemporary in Jefferson nickels begin in 2004 with the Westward journey series or in 2006 with the modified obverse portrait of Jefferson facing forward?
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Valued Member
 United States
77 Posts |
A 21st century set by design type would be interesting, fairly inexpensive and diverse. It would consist of 6 different one cent pieces, 6 different five cent pieces, a dime, a half dollar, 50 different (so far) one dollar pieces and 101 different (so far) quarter dollars. I think I'll start with that as my collecting introduction to moderns. I want to do it as proofs. One question is: Should I go for government packaged proof sets or individually certified coins? (I don't like the idea of proof coins in anything other that hard plastic holders of some kind.) Another question is: Should I go for clad proofs or silver proofs?
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Valued Member
 United States
77 Posts |
That's 165 different coins. Mostly quarters, yes. But 165 different coins nonetheless.
Edited by rbjr85 04/21/2018 5:20 pm
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote: Should I go for government packaged proof sets or individually certified coins? (I don't like the idea of proof coins in anything other that hard plastic holders of some kind.) Another question is: Should I go for clad proofs or silver proofs? Yes  There's pluses and minuses to all approaches, just depends what you like best. If you go the proof route there are a lot you can basically get for a very small premium already graded so I would go graded at the grade before a big value jump for proofs if it was me and you were set on doing proofs.
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New Member
United States
21 Posts |
rbjr85,
I recently got back to collecting modern proof coins that so fascinated me during my childhood. I've chosen to concentrate, for now, on the Era from 1950-1970. My goal is enjoy this journey but to also develop a first class collection of these beautiful coins. I would suggest to have fun during your searches. Pick up one book at a time and don't start out with an entire library. Look around to multiple respected sources for you coin purchases and, at least for me, I stay away from raw coins and focus on certified coins. The reputable services are there for a reason, our peace of mind. You can still shop around for the best deal from among these graded coins. Best of luck and have a ball!
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Valued Member
 United States
77 Posts |
I decided to go for the clad proof quarters instead of silver proofs. That way there I can use the money I save from not buying the silver ones and put it towards commemoratives and Silver Eagles. I also decided on certified coins so I can look at each one individually instead of having to look at several at once. Plus I suspect that the slabs offer better protection than the proof set cases. Can any of you confirm or debunk that? Thanks. 
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote: Plus I suspect that the slabs offer better protection than the proof set cases. For sure
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Bedrock of the Community
 United States
12477 Posts |
 Slabbed clad quarter proofs should be really easy to come by in PR68-69DCAM and be inexpensive. It will be a great looking set. 
In Memory of Crazyb0 12-26-1951 to 7-27-2020 In Memory of Tootallious 3-31-1964 to 4-15-2020 In Memory of T-BOP 10-12-1949 to 1-19-2024
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