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Replies: 12 / Views: 3,373 |
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New Member
United States
27 Posts |
I've been researching mintage numbers for modern US coins and have come up with a starter list for my collection: Jefferson nickel - 1938-S, 1939-D, 1997 matte proof Mercury dime - 1930-S, 1931-D, 1931 Roosevelt dime - 1946-S Washington quarter - 1932, 1932-S, 1940-D or 1955-D Walking Liberty half - 1918, 1933-S, 1938-D Kennedy half - 1970-D, 1998 matte proof I'm aiming for high-grade low-mintage examples of my favorite coins, with different mint marks. What grades are the most bang for my buck? Choice AU seem prettier to me than a lot of MS; everything after MS65 seems to be a lot more money for a lot less difference. I want coins that will appreciate in value, but it isn't my primary goal by far. Why is it that some years that produced less coins go for substantially less money than other years where more coins were produced? In some cases there are 2x as many but it goes for 2x or more than the rarer coin! I'm especially excited about the 1932-S (408,000 minted) quarter and the 1931-S dime (1,800,000 minted), both seem to be amazing values when you compare near years/mintages like the 1932-D quarter (436,800) and the 1926-S dime (1,520,000). Definitely the top two on my list. So is this a good start? I know there is a lot of numismatic experience here, so I'm very open to suggestions. Edited by jamesta 10/28/2011 10:38 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4132 Posts |
The reason why some low mintage years are lower priced is because they were saved in larger numbers. With Mercury dimes, for example, 1931-D and 1931-S were low mintage, but most of them weren't released until a couple years later. By then, saving roll-quantities by date and mint-mark had started to come into fashion. But earlier dates like 1926-S had already been in circulation for a while and were getting worn out or lost through attrition. That's not to say that they're not underrated or underpriced.
Edited by CaptainFwiffo 10/28/2011 10:51 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1302 Posts |
For new collectors there is always a little confusion about AU vs MS. MS is simply mint state. This is what the coin looked like when it was produced. Not every coin is beautiful or well struck when it's made. For example, I have a 1983 P Quarter which is graded MS-65 by PCGS. The coin is toned a dark grey, has no hits or marks that are obvious to the naked eye- but it was not a well struck coin. The motto and the date are very flat. A higher grade example from this year- one without any problems that is well struck will sell for much much more because they are super rare. An AU coin is simply slightly worn. You could crack an MS-68 coin out of a TPG holder, rub it up in your hands a little and you will have created the most beautiful AU-58 coin you've ever seen. Likewise, a coin with not such a great strike that is slightly worn- might grade lower. Not all coins are created equally- is my point.
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Valued Member
United States
424 Posts |
The Roosevelt you want is the 49 s not the 46.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4778 Posts |
Yeah I was wondering also why the OP put 46-S...
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Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21786 Posts |
The numbers minted don't necessarily reflect the current rarity of a particular coin. A lot of silver coins have been melted over the years, converting them back into bullion.
Some of the better condition examples of silver coins have been retained by collectors, so that the average condition for type must have increased over the years. Also, the rarer dates would have been retained by collectors in preference to the more common ones.
There are other folks in the CCF who have a much better idea than me of the current relative rarity of U.S. silver coins.
Keep yourself posted over the long term to find out more.
Edited by sel_69l 10/29/2011 01:09 am
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New Member
 United States
27 Posts |
So is there a general way to look for the underrated mintages?
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Valued Member
United States
424 Posts |
A RedBook would do wonders...if you don't have one, you should get one. You can also check ebay and check out the current trends in price. I'm finishing the Roosevelts, and I've found that The most desirable in high MS are...49s,50s,51s,even 52s,and 53s. The 1955's too. I would also add the 1996w. The quarters in high grade are 32d,32s,34d, and pretty much any d or s mintmark before 1941. Also the 49,51s, and 55d.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3077 Posts |
have you looked at mintage numbers of the modern UNC Commemertive silver dollars?
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New Member
 United States
27 Posts |
I'm reading that the best grade to seek for moderns is the one just down from wherever the jump is, i.e. the 1932-S goes for 800 in MS63, 1190 in MS64 and 4800 in MS65, so go for the MS64 as the best bang for the buck. Is this true and applicable?
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Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21786 Posts |
Jamesta: I suggest that you peruse the Heritage auction histories. If you are going regularly spend big bucks on top grade coins, I don't think ebay is the place for you, unless the seller is professional and well known. Normally, I like to have the coin 'in hand' before I make my decision to buy. That can be a bit difficult if for instance, you live in Dallas, and the coin you are interested in, is in L.A. Establish a working acquaintance with the leading auction houses and dealers. You will end up paying extra for their expertise, but at this level, you just can't afford to buy dud or over graded coins. That type of expertise should end up paying for itself. I DO buy pricey coins about once a year as a present to myself, but I also like to buy low grade ancients, because I love the fun and the battle of trying to attribute them. Actually, I also buy low cost coins of the 19th and early 20th centuries, provided they are interesting, and the price is attractive. Keeps the numismatic juices flowing.
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New Member
 United States
27 Posts |
I think I might've misrepresented the price range I have... I'm definitely looking to do what I can under $1000; I don't want to spend more than $1000 on any coins, with the exception of the 'C' minted coins.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Here is an idea. Just collect every coin of all denominations for every year and mint mark. That way you would eventually get all of those without even trying. 
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Replies: 12 / Views: 3,373 |
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