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1923 Mercury Dime - You Vs. PCGS

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CaptainFwiffo's Avatar
United States
4132 Posts
 Posted 03/09/2012  9:28 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add CaptainFwiffo to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
I think they missed! What say YOU, prestigious Internet person?

1923-Mercury-Dime---You-Vs.-PCGS

If you can't tell because of the lighting angle, those bands are fully split and rounded as can be (PCGS got that much right at least).
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War Nickel's Avatar
United States
172 Posts
 Posted 03/09/2012  10:10 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add War Nickel to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
VERY strong strike on reverse...they should state that on the placard. GEM BU....MS -65, conservatively. That is the best Mercury dime I have ever seen. MS-67 even.
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macmercury's Avatar
United States
5833 Posts
 Posted 03/09/2012  10:20 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add macmercury to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
23-P is fairly common for strong strikes and FB. I see a few tiny nicks on the obverse, but that's all, unless there's damage to the rim area.

MS-66 FB!

If it was another date, than it would be MS-67 FB.
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CaptainFwiffo's Avatar
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 Posted 03/09/2012  10:26 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CaptainFwiffo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
There is a bit of a warble to the rim, but it's an irregularity in the strike or maybe the planchet, not damage.

I was thinking because it's a high mintage, less expensive date and usually has a nice strike, 1923 might be a good choice for type collectors. The hub starts showing more wear over time and you don't have near as much detail in later years (particularly the floating branches starting in 1926.)
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mitchhailey's Avatar
United States
1150 Posts
 Posted 03/09/2012  10:31 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mitchhailey to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I'm going with 66FB. That's a gorgeous strike both obverse and reverse, especially, as you mentioned, on the floating branches.
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numismaniac's Avatar
United States
361 Posts
 Posted 03/09/2012  10:45 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add numismaniac to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Just to be contrary and because of you "thinking they missed it" I will say 65 fsb. If you say they came in lower or, gasp, said au58 (can they grade it that and still say full split bands?) I would be quite surprised.
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52Raymo's Avatar
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8518 Posts
 Posted 03/09/2012  11:48 pm  Show Profile   Check 52Raymo's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add 52Raymo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
MS63FB

* I actually think 65 or better but since you said they got it wrong....
Oregon coin geek.....*** GO BEAVS ! ! ! ***
Edited by 52Raymo
03/10/2012 12:01 am
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Canadian-Banknotes's Avatar
Canada
4944 Posts
 Posted 03/10/2012  12:10 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Canadian-Banknotes to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Actual Grade: MS-65FB
PCGS Grade: MS-64FB
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westcoin's Avatar
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9792 Posts
 Posted 03/10/2012  05:18 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add westcoin to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
My guess is PCGS gave it a grade of MS63 FB

I think it should be a MS65 FSB!
"Buy the Book Before You Buy the Coin" - Aaron R. Feldman - "And read it" - Me 2013!
ANA Life Member #3288 in good standing since 1981, ANS, Early American Coppers Member (EAC), Colonial Coin Collectors Club member (C4), Conder Token Collector Club member (CTCC), Civil War Token Society (CWTS) member, Liberty Seated Collectors Club (LSCC) & Numismatic Bibliomania Society member (NBS), USMex, Member in good standing, 2¢ variety collector.

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War Nickel's Avatar
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172 Posts
 Posted 03/10/2012  07:16 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add War Nickel to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I have to wonder if PCGS, who in my opinion tends to be a wee bit conservative and "holds back" a bit and routinely grades a bit lower just to maintain their reputation as "conservative" instead of being closer to the ideal of objectivity.

I see this coin, which most here agreed is MS-65..or higher for its type...and they say its MS-64. Does PCGS also take into account the year and how strong the strikes are? Does that mean if a particular year has a weak strike, they also take THAT into account ? Isn't that being subjective? Or is it merely being more responsive to each single year's issue and its comparative strengths and weaknesses?
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United States
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 Posted 03/10/2012  3:48 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add seateddime48174 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
if we tell it like it is with PCGS do we risk being kicked off this board too ?
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CaptainFwiffo's Avatar
United States
4132 Posts
 Posted 03/10/2012  7:28 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CaptainFwiffo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
MS63FB
That's probably closest to what I paid.


Quote:
PCGS Grade: MS-64FB
Yep, that's what's on the slab.


Quote:
GEM BU....MS-65, conservatively.
I agree, comparing it to my other graded Mercs it's easily a MS65FB.


Quote:
MS-66 FB!
Going by the paucity of any significant marks, I think it compares well with any of the graded 66s I have.

The only thing I can think is that they knocked it down for the spotting on the reverse. It has other flaws, but they're all die characteristics. The luster is a bit subdued - it lacks "bling" - but that's a consequence of the die state, not haze or oxidation - I have 66 and 67 graded Mercs with similar luster. There are also die abrasion lines (not very visible in the picture) that could be mistaken for hairline scratches, but they're present on the majority of Mercury dimes, I can't imagine they'd make that mistake. The most distracting mark on the coin is a luster break between IGWT, the "L" and Liberty's chin, but it's actually die burn, not a contact mark. It's extremely difficult to find any marks at all without magnification.

Regardless of their reasoning, I'm the winner in the end. I get a solid gem for a very good price.


Quote:
Does that mean if a particular year has a weak strike, they also take THAT into account ? Isn't that being subjective? Or is it merely being more responsive to each single year's issue and its comparative strengths and weaknesses?

They definitely grade on a curve for the FB designation at least. A 1945 is so rare with full bands that the barest separation is enough to earn the FB. But if it's got a "D" on the back, it will be held to a much higher standard.
Edited by CaptainFwiffo
03/10/2012 7:43 pm
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D0ubl3Eagle's Avatar
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5854 Posts
 Posted 03/10/2012  7:57 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add D0ubl3Eagle to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I was going to guess MS-65 FB before looking at the answer. That is a great buy at near MS-63 FB money!
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westcoin's Avatar
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9792 Posts
 Posted 03/10/2012  9:37 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add westcoin to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
CaptainFwiffo - Do you think it's a FSB or just FB? You got a steal on this coin!
"Buy the Book Before You Buy the Coin" - Aaron R. Feldman - "And read it" - Me 2013!
ANA Life Member #3288 in good standing since 1981, ANS, Early American Coppers Member (EAC), Colonial Coin Collectors Club member (C4), Conder Token Collector Club member (CTCC), Civil War Token Society (CWTS) member, Liberty Seated Collectors Club (LSCC) & Numismatic Bibliomania Society member (NBS), USMex, Member in good standing, 2¢ variety collector.

See my want page: http://goccf.com/t/140440
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CaptainFwiffo's Avatar
United States
4132 Posts
 Posted 03/10/2012  9:50 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CaptainFwiffo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
FSB is the designation that ANACS uses and FB is the designation that PCGS and NGC use, but they use pretty much the same standards to apply it. "FSB" ostensibly is an abbreviation for "fully split bands" but the "FB" designation also means fully split bands. If there was to be a designation for fully split and rounded bands, it would have to be something like "FSRB" or "FRB".

But to answer what was probably your question, the bands on this dime are fully split and as rounded as possible and would meet any definition of fully split bands. (As macmercury noted above, 1923-P is usually well struck.)
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westcoin's Avatar
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9792 Posts
 Posted 03/11/2012  05:25 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add westcoin to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I haven't collected many of these in decades, I remember them more from the days of no slabs, I used to differentiate my inventory between FB and FSB with the FSB being the full rounded bands, I guess times have changed, I only asked because I recalled seeing both FB and FSB on slabs recently, didn't think to notate they were probably in different TPG company holders, thanks for the lesson, even an old dog can still learn something, now if it only sticks.
"Buy the Book Before You Buy the Coin" - Aaron R. Feldman - "And read it" - Me 2013!
ANA Life Member #3288 in good standing since 1981, ANS, Early American Coppers Member (EAC), Colonial Coin Collectors Club member (C4), Conder Token Collector Club member (CTCC), Civil War Token Society (CWTS) member, Liberty Seated Collectors Club (LSCC) & Numismatic Bibliomania Society member (NBS), USMex, Member in good standing, 2¢ variety collector.

See my want page: http://goccf.com/t/140440
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