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Replies: 8 / Views: 1,365 |
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Valued Member
United States
207 Posts |
I have been putting together a collection of lincolns 1909-current. Which are the more sought after qualities? Color and shine? Details? lack of scratches and blemishes?
I have been having a heck of a time picking which coin for the collection between a few. Some have some bright shiny parts left on the coin, yet have some marks and blemishes. Yet the other will have no marks or blemishes or even easily noticeable scratches, although they are the dull brown color with no shine.
I am very new at this and have no grading knowledge, so basically my question is should I be paying more attention to sharpness of details, or color and luster? I have been going with the luster/shine.
Also which would hypothetically grade higher?
Considering detail sharpness was equal on both coins.. A coin that is shiny with a few dark spots or rustyish marks. Or a duller coin that is consistent in color with no marks?
Also how much does the reverse affect the grade of the coin? Are coins graded as a whole? I have found a few that the obverse looks amazing, yet will have a bit nasty dark spot on the reverse.
I know I just asked a bajillion questions in one post, but any answers or insight would be greatly appreciated. Even if you only touch on one of the questions. Thank you :)
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Moderator
 United States
16677 Posts |
Shine, shiny..these are terms that need to be left out of coin collecting, period. I know you are new at grading. Luster, or the remaining amount there of, is what is needed in determining XF (Extra Fine) and better coins. The amount of luster and wear, will determine the difference between an XF coin, and an AU (About Uncirculated) coin. Luster is that which remains, that has a slight cartwheel affect when a coin is tilted. To answer your first question, it is the minimal amount of contact marks on uncirculated coins, Red or Brown, that will be more sought after thus, more valuable/desirable. The less amount of contact marks on uncirculated coins/stronger the strike, will result in a higher grade/value. The obverse and reverse are both taken into consideration when grading any coin. If the obverse is pristine while the reverse has nasty blotches or spots that are unattractive, this will lower a coins grade substantially, especially in MS grades or Mint State levels.
swcoin.ecrater.com
Edited by vermontensium 04/02/2012 04:46 am
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Moderator
 United States
56855 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1256 Posts |
The Lincoln's are often divided into two sets. 09-33 and 34-present. The separation is color and not so much grade. The reason being a complete pre-34 set in red is very expensive while a nice brown set is not too bad. 1934 forward in red is not near as hard (comparatively speaking).
On the problem cents: problems (nicks and spots etc) really don't affect lower grades in that a scratched XF45 should still be an XF45 without them. We are grading how much wear. Problems do affect higher grades because there is no "wear" to grade. So only the problems are graded. This includes nicks, color, strike and perhaps most importantly luster.
Shiny without luster often means cleaned so be careful with those. They often have a pink color. Reject these every time.
I would rather have a problem free brown then a nasty red any day. And the splotchy red/browns do nothing for me even problen free. One color or the other but not both.
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Valued Member
 United States
207 Posts |
Thanks, that's a lot of good info for a newb right there! I have generally just been picking the coins that overall "look better" and appear "less worn" Although there have been some tough calls, being I am unexperienced. Where I see a lot of good points of one coins, and some bad. Then the other coin of the same date has different good points and different bads. I will post a picture in a little bit of one coin that really confused me. Whether I should keep this one, or use one that is one solid color but dull brown. Thank you for taking the time to reply to me, I really appreciate it.
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Valued Member
 United States
207 Posts |
Here are some pictures of the obverse and reverse of a coin that is confusing me. Should I find a brown with nice detail and no major marks instead? Also, I have a 1955s that is definitely in MS condition, but it has a die break on one of the 5's. Would the die break not be a good candidate for a complete set as it is a variety? Would I want an error free example instead?  
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Pillar of the Community
Australia
4411 Posts |
I would much rather have a full brown coin than one with verdigris like yours. Any of the green stuff basically kills any coin for me and I'm sure my view is shared amongsts many.
At the end of the day decide what you prefer. Personally I would prefer full red coins but many of the Australian ones I collect are too expensive like this so I settle for pleasing brown toning but with full detail and little to no wear.
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Valued Member
 United States
207 Posts |
That makes a lot of sense to me, I actually thought the decent brown ones looked better over all. Those green marks stick out like a sore thumb, also does the inconsistency of the tone on the obverse.
Any idea on my die break question?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
9792 Posts |
Also watch out when talking over an exposed copper coin, your mouth will let tiny (minuscule) droplets of saliva spray and fall onto the coins, while not visible right away, give a year or too and you will almost certainly have carbon spots growing , very noticeable on a full red example. I tend to stay away from reddish coins, as they are likely to change into brown coins eventually if not stored properly, I have a few that have really changed since I left Colorado and moved to SoCal, then to Texas. The varieties of humidity in the air and salt water in SoCal, surely contributed to some of my coins changing color, Colorado has a very dry climate, (another reason the ANA settled on Colorado Springs as home base). Collections stored in a controlled environment are apt to stay in a similar condition, ones that move around a lot and experience varying temperature and humidity levels don't fare so well. Storage is key when collecting full red copper coins! Quote: Also, I have a 1955s that is definitely in MS condition, but it has a die break on one of the 5's. Would the die break not be a good candidate for a complete set as it is a variety? Would I want an error free example instead? That is totally up to you and your preference, I don't think it really matters one way or another, but if it's a major variety that adds value then sure why not include it. If you are looking to get pristine examples in the best condition you can afford, then you probably want to get coins with a minimum of problems from the planchet or the die, so no die breaks, Cuds, etc.
"Buy the Book Before You Buy the Coin" - Aaron R. Feldman - "And read it" - Me 2013! ANA Life Member #3288 in good standing since 1981, ANS, Early American Coppers Member (EAC), Colonial Coin Collectors Club member (C4), Conder Token Collector Club member (CTCC), Civil War Token Society (CWTS) member, Liberty Seated Collectors Club (LSCC) & Numismatic Bibliomania Society member (NBS), USMex, Member in good standing, 2¢ variety collector. See my want page: http://goccf.com/t/140440
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