| Author |
Replies: 73 / Views: 11,743 |
|
|
|
New Member
 United States
26 Posts |
Basebal21,
Yes, you are correct that it defeats the purpose. There are hundreds of safes on the market which are untested and easily compromised which is why buying a safe that has been tested for burglary resistance by a certifying agency is important. Fedlock is a good company and can likely provide you with a small vehicle safe. Just YouTube the model you're interested in and see if it is one of the commonly compromised safes.
Micah Welch, CMS, CPS
|
|
New Member
 United States
26 Posts |
Mcshilling,
I do have Cannuck colleagues but depending on what you're interested in we can assist as well. Shoot me an email with the particulars and I'll put you in touch.
Micah Welch, CMS, CPS, CS&VT
|
|
Valued Member
United States
318 Posts |
Well that was depressing. I found that video. If anyone is interested, search youtube for a video called "Security on Sale Gun safe Prying video". I have my safe bolted to the floor, and sideways in a closet for limited front access, but still.
Anyways, more safe cracking questions! Are you registered with the gov't, and do the police ever come talking to you when there's a high profile safe theft? How many actual safe cracking calls do you go on in a month? Do you have a specialty, like does a colleague say to a client "oh this is an El Dorado class unit, I thought you said El Durango. We gotta call in Micah!"
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1812 Posts |
 About 15 years back, I purchased a Diamabit drill bit on ebay that advertised this type of bit is used for drilling Bank Safes. It also includes some type of blue lube but does not describe how often to use the lube. While I never intend to drill open a safe, I did want to add it in my tool inventory should I come across a job that required drilling hard-plate. In the past 15 years I have never found a need to use this on a job, and don't see this type of bit in the big-box stores and wondered if it really does drill through carbide steel as advertised. 
Edited by Broken-Coin 03/28/2013 11:14 am
|
|
Pillar of the Community
Canada
1723 Posts |
 to the forum Apex... glad to have your expertise here! 
|
|
New Member
 United States
26 Posts |
Silver Eye,
"Security on Sale" is a great video and you've done the right thing with your safe placement. Limiting the room is very helpful.
To answer your other questions, yes, I am registered with multiple state and federal agencies but have never been questioned regarding a loss. We do consult with insurance companies and LEO's post-burglary and provide a written analysis of the condition of the safe and whether or not scenes have been staged, etc.
There is no set number of safes opened per month. It's hard to predict when a lock will break due to lack of maintenance or when a burglar will smash a dial & handle off. Some months we may open 8, some months average 1-1.5 day. Opening safes is only half of what I do. I specialize in custom projects such as safe & vault security modifications and lock-to-alarm system integration. And to answer your last question, yes as well. The unique, strange, high security's and/or impossible jobs tend to end up at my door.
Micah Welch, CMS, CPS, CS&VT
|
|
New Member
 United States
26 Posts |
Broken -Coin
Diamond bits are used but not as often as other bits. It's unlikely you would have a need for it and the technique defiantly has a learning curve. Move it wrong and all the diamonds are gone. Your bit is still sold today for about $30. You could use it for glass or tile if the need arose.
Micah Welch, CMS, CPS, CS&VT
Edited by Apex Safes 03/28/2013 9:21 pm
|
|
Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote: Yes, you are correct that it defeats the purpose. There are hundreds of safes on the market which are untested and easily compromised which is why buying a safe that has been tested for burglary resistance by a certifying agency is important. Fedlock is a good company and can likely provide you with a small vehicle safe. Just YouTube the model you're interested in and see if it is one of the commonly compromised safes.
Is there a site that has kind of a cheat sheet of the testing or do you just have to keep youtubing anything you find? Or companies that are less likely to have a safe that can be compromised?
|
|
Valued Member
United States
344 Posts |
Thank you for taking the time to answer our questions, Apex Safes. Quote: It's hard to predict when a lock will break due to lack of maintenance or when a burglar will smash a dial & handle off. Your comment on the lack of maintenance on the locks concerns me. I have a safe from the 1960s which has never had any kind of maintenance. What would your recommend?
|
|
Valued Member
United States
318 Posts |
Micah, thanks again for answering all these questions. I'm kind of amazed that there is that much business in opening safes, I thought people would be more careful. I could talk to you all day about the details of safe cracking but I'll try to spread it out a little. Suffice it to say if you had a shadow program where a civilian could come along on one of your "impossible jobs" I bet you would have a line out your door.
What are some of the worst things we should avoid in regards to safes in your experience? Anything from selection to placement to usage to whatever.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1116 Posts |
Greetings:
I have a couple of questions that popped up on another forum concerning refurnishing old safes that were purchased used.
1: Repaining a used safe how long does the paint have to cure before it would be safe to either put coins in or to use for that matter? Does it matter what type of paint that is used?
2: I am looking to purchase an older safe that is probably from before the 1900's. The kind you see in the westerns. Do these safes have any type of fire protection? The safe is limited to left-right movement only and weighs approximately 600 #'s empty. Are they still workable for storing coins. I'm told that the combination is 4 numbers.
3: My safe has what is called a glass relocker that is supposed to prevent the safe from being opened if the glass is broken. If that is so, can a locksmith either get the safe opened should it be drilled and once it has been drilled can it be fixed to prior condition or should the safe be replaced?
4: My safe at work has a electronic lock, if the controll pad goes bad can a new pad just be put in place and if so, can a thief just put a new pad on and open the safe up. Or is there more to it than what I've described?
5: How often should either a keypad or dial combination lock be serviced?
|
|
New Member
 United States
26 Posts |
Basebal21,
There isn't any formal list but at a minimum look for an RSC rating, a 1/2" solid plate door or a burglary/fire composite safe. We did some R&D with The Jaws of Life and plate steel doors resisted formed door & body safes exponentially. Heavy & larger safes don't always make for a better safe but it's a good bet if something weighs less than 100# there just isn't the material needed to be considered a strong safe.
Make sure the lock is a UL Group 1 or 2/2M, a UL Type 1 high security electronic lock or a rated key lock. This ensures the lock part of the safe isn't easily compromised by simple bypasses.
Micah Welch, CMS, CPS, CS&VT
|
|
Bedrock of the Community
 United States
12845 Posts |
Cool thread. Thanks for posting and answering questions, Micah.
What are your thoughts on AC power inside a safe? Currently I have an LED tape lighting solution set up in my safe and I fished the low-voltage power supply (xformer is outside the safe) through one of the bolt-down holes and that's working great for me. I know I've seen some safes with actual AC outlets in them, and that appeals to me for running lighting, dehumidification, etc. What are the risks and caveats? I stick my portable electronic devices in there when I leave the house and it would be nice to be able to charge them in there.
Also, how do you feel about running a NAS device in a closed safe? Some folks here don't think it's a good idea due to possible heat generation/build-up, but I think it's a decent solution for data protection.
Finally, say your safe is not already equipped with a power source. What's the best way to retrofit? Use a bit like
|
|
New Member
 United States
26 Posts |
Tgauchsin,
Safes and vaults should be serviced annually to keep the components in proper working order. It rarely states so in the safe's manual, if it came with one, but Sargent & Greenleaf and other safe lock manufacturers suggest it. Lack of maintenance is ultimately responsible for half of the lockouts we do every year. Your safe is a machine with moving parts and needs attention occasionally. BE ADVISED: Regardless of how handy you may be, do not try servicing your own safe. It's a hard and costly lesson when you figure out what that extra screw was for.
When scheduling a locksmith or safe technician to service your safe, ask him if he disassembles and lubricates the combination lock as well. He should be using an aeroshell or similar fine lubricant specific for safe locks. Most locksmiths don't and the customer never knows.
Micah Welch, CMS, CPS, CS&VT
|
|
New Member
 United States
26 Posts |
Ghostrider,
1) I'm a safe expert and a coin novice so I can't say for a fact. It likely depends on the metal of the coin as well. The smell of the paint would fade in a couple weeks when left open after painting so a guess would be a few weeks.
2) Most cast iron safes from that period have fire protection but send me a photo to verify. These safes we the among a small handful that survive the California wildfires many years ago when the fire dept couldn't get to the homes in the mountainous areas. Nearly every modern made gun safe and their contents were completely destroyed. Drywall insulation vs. concrete or refractory cement based safes is a clear choice. The testing parameters of modern safes doesn't include many real life scenarios like storing you safe in a garage with combustibles. This shoots a normal house fire above normal temperatures and greatly shortens the minutes of fire rating.
However, these safes were made before the invention of electric drills and grinders. Some models are very strong and were made for bankers and jewelers but confirm from a reputable source before you buy. One man can roll a 600# safe by himself so set the wheels inside a 3' square 2x4 frame and fill with concrete.
3) If in the event your glass is broken, you'll need someone who has exact internal knowledge of that safe. Have them show you a photo and explain their plan of attack. Safes are always openable and repairable without destruction if the person knows what they're doing. Some safes are so strong or unique that the local guys can't open it and a traveling safecracker needs to be called in.
It wouldn't hurt to do an inspection and service to ensure your relockers are activated. Some safes have at cotter pin or other device installed blocking accidental firing in transit and many are never removed, leaving security less than 100%.
4) Some keypads are replaceable from the outside, others require safe access but no safe can be opened simply by putting another keypad on without knowing the code. The important electronics are inside the safe and 99% have a non-volatile memory.
5) Safes and dial locks should be serviced every 12 months with regular use, every 18 months with light use (1-5 openings per month) or every 6 months for heavy use safes like McDonald. Electronics can't be serviced outside of inspecting cables and keeping screws tight but the safe itself should be serviced based on above.
Micah Welch, CMS, CPS, CS&VT
|
| |
Replies: 73 / Views: 11,743 |