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Posted 07/18/2013 7:54 pm
Hi again I know of two I think still current Mint letters saying a London Obverse/London Reverse is correct. (have the dates written somewhere) Hearsay is a third was issued and later withdrawn, but hearsay is urban myth/ glorified gossip.
One Fact is that no 1930 penny was ever authenticated without the London Reverse.
This particular coin had a obviously bad "0" among other points.
At the moment the "0" in the 1930 is probably the second step in any over view, First step that bad 9. That defines it fake immediately, (but I still try to get a scan for future study if I have the coin in hand.) Regards the 0 it in fact has to be More O shape than 0 and with a bit of practice easier to pick than the better done 9s coming out.
All the other steps checks get progressively more time consuming, but now are made visually easier with scanners and magnification.
Attention to detail is the key.
Weight can be another clue. A dimensionally correct coin should weigh in in a very close tolerance to spec. If the dimensions are right and the weight is badly out it means a different composition of metals.
One Adelaide expert- and I defer to him, as I do to the many other "real coin experts"-- I am just a very dedicated observer of detain in my narrow field of passion-- picked a bad coin by the tone of its ring when if was dropped. That was enough to tell him there needed to be more precise checks done to see why.
Every one can become good at picking most fakes, and I am first to suggest going to a Professional of good repute when big $s are at stake if you feel uncomfortable with your own judgment.
One Fact is that no 1930 penny was ever authenticated without the London Reverse.
This particular coin had a obviously bad "0" among other points.
At the moment the "0" in the 1930 is probably the second step in any over view, First step that bad 9. That defines it fake immediately, (but I still try to get a scan for future study if I have the coin in hand.) Regards the 0 it in fact has to be More O shape than 0 and with a bit of practice easier to pick than the better done 9s coming out.
All the other steps checks get progressively more time consuming, but now are made visually easier with scanners and magnification.
Attention to detail is the key.
Weight can be another clue. A dimensionally correct coin should weigh in in a very close tolerance to spec. If the dimensions are right and the weight is badly out it means a different composition of metals.
One Adelaide expert- and I defer to him, as I do to the many other "real coin experts"-- I am just a very dedicated observer of detain in my narrow field of passion-- picked a bad coin by the tone of its ring when if was dropped. That was enough to tell him there needed to be more precise checks done to see why.
Every one can become good at picking most fakes, and I am first to suggest going to a Professional of good repute when big $s are at stake if you feel uncomfortable with your own judgment.
definately not a 1920 replaced with a 3. I appreciate your additional info on CBL etc!
