| Author |
 Replies: 81 / Views: 7,384 |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
2311 Posts |
All I can say is, the set isn't cheap to complete  I just spent like my whole day buying all the ikes I need off ebay and still not done. I need to buy the rest off a CCF member. That's 30 dollars right there. I can say what I paid on ebay but I don't really feel like. Here's the list I needed before buying them:
1971 S silver
1971 S silver proof
1972 S silver Proof
1973 P
1973 S Proof
1973 S Silver proof
1974 S Silver proof
1976 Silver
1976 P Type Two
1976 S Type one Proof
1976 S Silver Proof
1977 P
1978 S Proof
1977 S ProofIf it all works out. I will have EVER ike I need   Edited by solotime
11/09/2013 10:42 pm
|
|
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
3755 Posts |
Did you put up a want list?
And no, the set is NOT cheqp if you get all of them in MS condition. I justsold a set for 250.00. And I only priced it that low because I needed the money.
Edited by smokeriderdon
11/09/2013 10:46 pm
|
|
Pillar of the Community
 United States
2311 Posts |
The list is completed.
Just waiting for them to come in IF the sellers ship them.
Do the brown ikes carry premium?
I lost like all my bids on them because they went for too much. I just want to crack them out for my album.
Edited by solotime
11/09/2013 10:47 pm
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1302 Posts |
good luck with your set. ikea can be super pricey on the high end- but a set minus the 1972 type 2 - can be put together at about $2.50 to $10.00 a coin.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1302 Posts |
for instance, this Pkok MS-66 1978-D would likely cost someone $1,000 to $1,500 IF the owner wanted to sell it. It's not for sale.  |
|
Pillar of the Community
1751 Posts |
Um, is it me, or is that '78-D hairlined?
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1903 Posts |
That coin is in a holder...probably lines in the slab's plastic
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1302 Posts |
yeah, plastic and a little glare at the top. photographing plastic is really not something I'm great at.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
2311 Posts |
@CC, one good thing about the set is you don't need the different types of 1972's.
I had 4 extra holes so I filled them with clad proofs.
That is one nice ike!
|
|
Moderator
 United States
187702 Posts |
Congratulations!  |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1037 Posts |
solotime - Are you going to put your Ike's in a Dansco album?
I put together a Dansco Ike album with proofs. As you all know it isn't cheap to do. What I learned to keep the price down is to be patient. There are deals out there and diligence will pay off. I found the 1971 & 1972 Ike's from D and P were the hardest to find in near BU condition. Lastly, with the 4 empty spaces in the album I used 1990W Eisenhower UNC, 1990P Eisenhower Proof, 2013W 5-Star General UNC and 2013P 5-Star General Proof silver dollars.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
1751 Posts |
I personally have BU rolls of every date in the series as a long-term investment. I actually think any set of Ikes in 63-64 or better is a solid investment, the majorit of raw Ikes you can still find out there are in horrible shape, mostly AU or MS60-61-62 or damaged. I'd say the average grade for my rolls is within a half point of 63 for each roll. The only date I lack a BU roll for is the '72 T2 and I have multiple AU/XF rolls of those (over 100 examples) so that's alright, lol. I don't count the proofs or other S-mint strikes, if they weren't intended to circulate, they shouldn't be part of the set, imho.
Speaking of which, does anybody know of a nice, high-quality Ike album that has the following dates;
'71
'71-D
'71-D FEV
'72 T1
'72 T2
'72 T3
'72-D
'73
'73-D
'74
'74-D
'76 T1
'76-D T1
'76 T2
'76-D T2
'77
'77-D
'78
'78-D
Much obliged if so!
Edited by FadeToBlack
11/12/2013 6:08 pm
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
2270 Posts |
I always suggest people look at mint sets to select coins for an Ike set. Sellers are getting a little better about not shipping out very bad quality coins but let's face it; a lot of dates are really pretty bad almost all the time. If you don't hand select these dates like the '76-P type I you're probably going to end up with a somewhat unsightly specimen. Most dates can be found pretty nice by just looking at four to eight mint sets though some can require up to twenty.
Ike sets are really challenging in nice chUnc and it's probably worth the effort to assemble them this way or to upgrade to it. It's not that the coins are all that common in typical Unc so much as they aren't very attractive in typical Unc.
Time don't fly, it bounds and leaps.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
1751 Posts |
The '76 T1 is tough to find in 64 or above, no matter how many mint sets you look through. I think I have 4 or 5 examples that would grade 64 or higher, two I picked from looking over around 60 mint sets (still in the sets, mind you) and the others I found in a full, complete roll of '76 T1's at my bank. That was the only time I've ever found a solid roll of '76 T1's anywhere. I usually average 2-4 T1's per $1k in ikes, with only one of those being a Philly, the rest being D's.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
2311 Posts |
Once when I complete the album I will release pictures.
This can take about ten days at most.
@Fade, I feel you should add the proofs. They make it look better and more packed.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
1751 Posts |
If I wanna add the proofs, I'll make a second set. I've got enough to go around. I actually have a few complete sets laying around, I'm sure, with all the silver and proof Ikes I've been buying in the past few months. In my view, I'm a purist. If you don't see people collecting seateds/barbers/Buffalo's/Walkers/Etc and including the proofs, why would I do that for Ikes? Just my point of view... plus I never liked the contrast between business strikes and proofs next to one another. Two separate albums appeals more to my eye.  |
| |
Replies: 81 / Views: 7,384 |
Posted 11/09/2013 10:47 pm
