| Author |
 Replies: 11 / Views: 1,872 |
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1291 Posts |
As I've mentioned in several other threads, I have a deal going where I swap dateless Buffalo nickels with a guy who sends me Seated halves in return. I'm preparing to send him $600 worth of dateless nickels and he has offered me the following halves to choose from at the prices shown: 1858-AU (3 of them)--$160 each 1858 unc--$300 1859 â€"AU--$160 1874 unc--$580 I can mix and match but, obviously, there is no combination that gets me to exactly $600. He'd rather NOT take cash from me if I go over $600...he'd rather I stay at or under $600 and he'll send me other goodies to make up the difference if I'm under. For the sake of AVOIDING argument, let's just assume his grading for these coins is 100% accurate and that "unc" means MS-60. What would YOU CHOOSE based on best value? |
|
|
|
Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
All good deals. If you push me, I go for the 1874. That's a $2k coin in MS63.
What are you doing with these Seateds? A set? A "holding?"
|
|
Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Assuming its properly graded problem free coins I would definitely take the 1874 too. Id always trade for quality over quantity
|
|
Pillar of the Community
Canada
5417 Posts |
 go for the 1874. |
|
Pillar of the Community
 United States
1291 Posts |
Decisions, decisions. This guy and I have built a pretty high level of trust with each other, and he has actually offered to send me ALL of the coins so that I can look at them FIRST and decide SECOND. I just hate to A.) be enriching the USPS unnecessarily and B.) have so many nice coins floating across 2500 miles of country - twice.
SsDd: No, I won't be building a set anytime soon. Not unless I divorce and marry into the Rockefeller clan. I guess I just want to add some "nice" coins to my otherwise somewhat scruffy collection.
I guess I'll go with the UNC 1874 and then post photos of it to see if you all agree with the grade.
Thanks for the input!
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
688 Posts |
I agree with everyone else, the 1874 seems to be the way to go. You might end up getting one heck of a deal
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
8137 Posts |
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
3486 Posts |
"This guy and I have built a pretty high level of trust with each other, ..."
Then go for the 1874. Ask him if you could examine it in hand with return privilege.
There will always be dateless Buffaloes. But a nice Seated Liberty half is a joy.
Oh, for a $20 difference just ask for a surprise.
Or just eat the difference if the coin is a stunner.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
1028 Posts |
I actually going to offer a differing opinion here. From what I understand, you are not building a set and you also don't have a real preference. That says to me that the best option would be the one for the best value with the least risk. A grade of MS60 is actually quite rare. A seated half (as well as most coins) would almost certainly grade higher or lower. Now, there also aren't too many unslabbed true UNC Seated halves floating around anymore. This buyer is also quite an expert on such coins. I'll believe that he might want to offer a favorable deal, but I don't he's going to leave close to $1000 or more on the table which he would with a real UNC 1874. I know you said to assume the grades are correct, but chances are that piece is an AU. If it's an AU-58 you just barely get a good deal at real market value. At AU-55, you're already losing money. No other combination of other coins could possibly hurt you at all. Even if you're only getting one $300 and one $160 with no further compensation, you're fine. I'd go with the UNC (probably also a high AU, but it doesn't matter) 1858 and an AU 1859...plus some junk silver or something. btw, I would personally be slightly annoyed at his choice of calling the 4 AU's $160 (instead of $150) so as to offer only poor combos. |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1959 Posts |
I think I would gamble on the 74. If you get it and it looks like a AU send it back. Does the guy know how to take pictures and send them to you? Seems kind of silly not to at least take the time to take even mediocre pics. This would possibly help guide you. If they are horrible pics, then it may actually misguide you though. Also, if you pick a combo that goes over by $20, are you saying he would NOT take 20 bucks or just prefers not to? That seems a little persnikkety to me.
I remember seeing some of the halves you got from this guy on another post and they were nice. Because of your past relationship with this guy, any way you decide to slice this deal, I think you will be OK. Good luck!
|
|
Valued Member
United States
461 Posts |
I agree with the strangeness of making everything $160 instead of $150 so you have to take a loss no matter what combo you make. If he makes it $150 you have a multitude of combos but then he won't take cash over the $600 so if you did the $ 300 and two $160 you can't make the difference up. That would make me mad.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1291 Posts |
The prices he's charging me are 80% of Grey Sheet bid, so that's how he got to those numbers. He's really NOT trying to make this hard on me. If I took 2 of the $160 coins and the $300 coin, for a total of $620, I'm sure he'd let me send him $20 to make things balance. But he prefers coins for coins rather than coins for money, and I'm happy to oblige him. He will not simply send me the 1874 in exchange for my $600 worth of nickels. He'll throw in something extra, and I've always been happy with whatever he comes up with.
|
| |
Replies: 11 / Views: 1,872 |
|
Posted 12/26/2013 2:13 pm
