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 Replies: 14 / Views: 1,762 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
663 Posts |
I'm new to CHR and was wondering about the 1982-84 coins that seem to be listed at a higher value. Specifically 1982-P, 1982-D, 1983-P, 1982-D , 1984-P, and 1986-D nickels. Also 1982-P, 1983-P, and 1983-D quarters. Are these coins actually worth more than face value? Do collectors seek them out? Is there a market for them? I'm not particularly attached to them, but I've been saving all of the ones I have come across in my hunt for other coins. However, they are starting to stack up. I didn't want to dump them though if they are actually worth anything..... Any advice? Edited by Agrippa
03/04/2014 7:00 pm
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Moderator
 United States
187702 Posts |
no mint sets were issued in 1982 and 1983, so all of the high grade coins for those two years must come from circulation. I am not sure about he 1984-P and 1986-D nickels. Their premium is news to me.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
663 Posts |
Yeah, I haven't been able to figure out why either, but all of the price guides I've seen, lists both the 1984-P and 1986-D at worth .12.
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Moderator
United States
187702 Posts |
Correct, NumisMedia shows a premium for those two. I am going to move this to the US Modern forum to attract Cladking's attention. If anyone knows, it is him.  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4809 Posts |
I appreciate the question and the responses especially the snippet about the 82 and 83 high grade coins coming from circulation. I've been working to upgrade my Jeffersons in these dates and informally have found (and confirm) finding the higher grade coins is a challenge. Thanks for the input folks!! It's put things into better perspective!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
663 Posts |
Yeah, the high grade ones are definitely hard to find.....especially the quarters! I'm going to try and make a roll of each of the different years, mints, and denominations, but I get the feeling it's gonna take awhile.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2270 Posts |
I'd save any of them in AU-55 or better. All of the AU-50 and betterso long as it's fairly attractive and well struck. And anything in XF or better it it's virtually perfect with nice even wear and no damage. I'd also save VF and better quarters with the right side of the N in UNUM farther from the eagle's head.
This will get rid of most of the coins but very little of the potential value. There will still be a few VF's in circulation for years holding back their value.
Don't underestimate any of these coins. A lot of these are already scarce but no one knows it so there's no demand and no value.
Time don't fly, it bounds and leaps.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4809 Posts |
Thanks Cladking - good information there. I was thinking that I probably let a few decent specimens get back into the wild. Armed with this new information, I suppose I'll be making better decisions. Thanks for the input!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
663 Posts |
Being new to coin collecting, I hate to ask this, as I'm sure you get this question all the time......but..... How would I know if I am looking at an AU-50 or not? Are there pictures on this site or other website that can guide me to generally grade my coins?
Thanks for putting up with the new guy and all of my amateur questions!
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Moderator
United States
14463 Posts |
Take a look at PCGS Photograde to get ideas. Its all personal judgement, so your AU-50 may not be my AU-50. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
663 Posts |
That is a GREAT resource! Thanks for sharing!  |
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Moderator
United States
14463 Posts |
Speaking of personal judgement: many times people break coins out of one slab to send it to another TPG. They think it should grade higher than the first TPG's opinion. And according to some darkside members, the US TPG seem to be generous with their grades.  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
663 Posts |
That's interesting and good to know! Looking at the pictures on that website, I am quite a bit shocked! I think I have been a bit strict with the quality of what I keep without knowing it..... I would say most of everything I've been holding on to is at least 64..... I've just been looking at them and asking myself, "If you bought that coin, got it in the mail, and opened it up, would I be excited?" If the answer is no, then I toss it! That pretty much has negated anything with the slightest blemish, scratch, mark, rust spot, chipped rail, etc..... I am WAY surprised at how much you can get away with the lower grades!!
Edited by Agrippa
03/07/2014 02:26 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2270 Posts |
Quote:
Being new to coin collecting, I hate to ask this, as I'm sure you get this question all the time......but..... How would I know if I am looking at an AU-50 or not? Are there pictures on this site or other website that can guide me to generally grade my coins?
Thanks for putting up with the new guy and all of my amateur questions! AU-50 in clad is easy. The rims are still mostly shiny but the coin shows definite wear. These coins used to usually be very very ugly coins because most clad was very poorly made and a littel wear and tear made them look even worse. Now days most of the coins in AU-50 were fairly well made and can be attractive in this grade. Very few of the '82-P quarters look nice in AU but more of the '83 do. '82 issues were poorly made from worn dies and the '83's are a little better. You always have to "grade on a curve" with coins and especially with clads. Time don't fly, it bounds and leaps.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2270 Posts |
Most people probably realize I misspoke in that last post. It's the edges of the coin that are still shiny on AU clad rather than the rims.
I've noticed it's getting quite unusual to find an eagle reverse clad quarter that has shiny edges. Even most of the late dates ('96 to '98) no longer are above XF very often. When you do see an old quarter still in AU with shiny edges it's usually a '76 or a very late date.
Time don't fly, it bounds and leaps.
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Replies: 14 / Views: 1,762 |
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Posted 03/04/2014 6:58 pm
