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Replies: 82 / Views: 6,297 |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
12057 Posts |
I'm going to agree with dave700x and call it a forgery as well. Please let us know the results.
Edit: I spent a lot of time looking at this last night vs. many known AU - MS examples from AU-50 to MS-65. These are PUPs from a PCGS MS-65 (Green CAC.)
Obverse PUPs
Genuine 1928: The bottom of the "I" in IN GOD touches the rim, almost merging into it. This coin, the bottom of the I has noticeable separation from the rim.
Genuine 1928: The G in GOD has a distinct vertical straight line on the upstroke closest to the O. This coin looks much more curved, like COD.
Genuine 1928: The last T in TRVST is quite a bit shorter than the S right before it. This coin, the T is actually taller than the S.
Genuine 1928: The letters in the word TRVST are "fat" and bevelled. This coin, the letters are very thin and have no bevelling. The V in TRVST on this coin is about half as thick as a genuine 1928 specimen, if that. In addition, the letters on a genuine coin are close together; this coin, due to the thin letters, there is more space between the letters, especially the V and the S compared to a known genuine example (where the top of the V and the top of the S almost touch.)
Genuine 1928: The band which is holding the crown on the bust's head has two parallel lines of equal thickness, clearly separated. This coin, the bottom line of the band is much thinner than the top line, and the bands are almost touching instead of showing a clear separation.
Reverse PUPs
Genuine 1928: The 2nd ray on the left extends well past the rightmost bottom corner of the N in "ONE". This coin, the ray is noticeably shorter, barely at or just slightly left of that bottom corner.
Genuine 1928: The U in "UNUM" is a regular shaped U, with the eagle's beak covering most of the bottom left part of the letter. This coin, the left side of the U appears to be a diagonal line that is visible to the right of the beak.
Genuine 1928: The reverse lettering is quite thick. The I and T in "UNITED" have almost no separation. This coin, there is a noticeable gap between the I and T.
That's all I've got for now.
Member ANA - EAC - TNA - SSDC - CCT #890 "Most of the things worth doing in the world had been declared impossible before they were done." -- Louis D. Brandeis
Edited by paralyse 08/02/2015 02:44 am
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Valued Member
United States
177 Posts |
I had noticed the differences in the bun myself, but after making the two photos of my coin and seeing some differences in details between the photos (of the same coin!), I'm still going to wait until better photos are posted before I commit.  I'm also going to get full of popcorn...
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Pillar of the Community
United States
6478 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4233 Posts |
Explain how someone counterfeits that characteristic doubled appearance behind the neck. Even my well-worn 1926 has it. The ding in the 8 extends consistently to a small nick on the rim. Photography can play tricks on us, and the coin is at an angle. There's a nick in the crown, the ray between I and B, and the one on the neck. We've got one picture to look at. I saved it off, zoomed in, and compare to numerous ha.com images. Did you?
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Valued Member
United States
156 Posts |
The face, specifically the nose, jaw and brow seem off to me.
Although it could be just a trick of the angle the photo was taken from.
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Rest in Peace
United States
10625 Posts |
A comparison of the date may change some peoples' opinion.  
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7375 Posts |
Quote: paid a pretty penny for it Quote: I will have the coin next week sometime Quote: I asked seller for a better picture before I pay as I am worried about it being a high grade counterfeit. now I will wait until he responds. Quote: I think I'm going to just pay and have it shipped Huh? 
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
36800 Posts |
 not something I would do.
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Valued Member
 United States
281 Posts |
seller hasn't responded. I'm pretty sure its a 9-5 business so I assume I will hear from him promptly tomorrow morning. especially when he sees I haven't paid yet. haha @ edweather yes sometimes I am a bit all over the place. when I have so many people telling me its counterfeit it makes me want to see better photos before I pay. at the same time I want the coin in hand to do my own examination but I'm nervous of getting screwed on the deal and being stuck with a 500 counterfeit. 
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
94367 Posts |
Assume you have return privileges, right?
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Quote: We've got one picture to look at. I saved it off, zoomed in, and compare to numerous ha.com images. Did you? Yes, I did, even though I've already looked at hundreds if not thousands of 1928's. That's why I think it's fake, because I know so well what real ones look like.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
12057 Posts |
Hopefully the PUP's I added above will help diagnose these. From research I did, I found out that there was a run of high-quality counterfeit 1928 Peace dollars made in Spain in the mid 70s that made it to market. Most had a diagnostic knife-edge rim (From casting) but that can be polished or ground down.
Member ANA - EAC - TNA - SSDC - CCT #890 "Most of the things worth doing in the world had been declared impossible before they were done." -- Louis D. Brandeis
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Valued Member
United States
171 Posts |
Is it just me or do I see a 3 in that 8? I think this may very well be a filled 3.....
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4233 Posts |
I'm going to wait for better images of the coin. paralyse, I couldn't find any on ha.com where the "I" touches and/or merges into the rim, or where the I and T in UNITED have "almost no separation". They all seem to have the same spacing as OP coin. The second T in TRVST could be ok; yes there is a white area below that makes the T look longer, but it could just be an unfortunate lighting thing. I see a lot of little details that I have a hard time believing could be faked, but perhaps somebody is really that good. For example, a V/wing-shaped line where the top of the bun joins the hairline, where the metal is depressed during strike. Same with the line behind the neck. Like I said, I'm hoping for a better image on Monday.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
12057 Posts |
kbb; the coin is more in line with a 1923. is what I was getting at. It does not look like most 1928's. Go to PCGS CoinFacts and look at a 1928 in MS-66 or MS-67.
If you compare the posted coin to a 1923 or 1925 it looks more in line, die-wise.
Member ANA - EAC - TNA - SSDC - CCT #890 "Most of the things worth doing in the world had been declared impossible before they were done." -- Louis D. Brandeis
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Replies: 82 / Views: 6,297 |