Oregon Commem And Buying Cleaned Coins

Quite possibly the result of many years in a sulfur-containing envelope.

An over-dipped coin would have a very different look.

Fantastic feedback on this topic so far. Thanks oih82w8, commems, and moxking! Definitely want to hear what others think.

oih82w8 - that is what I would really like to develop, a "gift" of detection.

I think it would be more a skill than a gift though. If possible, the ideal for me would be to assess originality as well as a TPG can. Though knowing I'll always be an amateur, I'm not sure exactly how one develops such a skill. Talking about it here, and inspecting a lot of coins (in hand as moxking suggests), seem at least a few ways to develop such skill. My impression, is that quality non-slabbed coins can be purchased for less than slab coin value, and I don't want to pay that slab premium if I don't need to. With that said, buying un-slabbed, and then looking to sell later on could be more difficult.

I'm not convinced that the premiums for slabbing outright end up being worth it? I feel slabbing is geared somewhat more for collector/investor goals (and several coins in my collection qualify in that regard), but I could be very happy with a vintage and (somewhat) rare mid-grade coin that is raw, and can be inspected sans plastic barriers. For example, a nicely toned VF-AU Oregon Trail, but it has to be original! I don't like the idea of cracking out a slabbed coin. So if I want to put the coin in a Dansco or hold it (properly) from time to time, raw is the way to go. If I'm buying for investment, I'll look for a slabbed coin. Maybe this tangent deserves its own topic.

commems - can you point me to an example of an over-dipped coin for comparison? I thought sulfur facilitates toning/tarnishing, I don't see that on this coin.

Grade and condition are not the only reasons to go TPG. There are some pretty decent 1926 Oregon counterfeit pieces that will fool most casual collectors.

That's absolutely a very bad fake. Note the loss of almost all fine details especially on the reverse. All of the letters both obverse and reverse appear "fat" and round. Fake tone to make the design elements appear stronger. Very unlikely that it's even silver.
Very probably a cast counterfeit. The edge would show the two halves of the mold on the edge.

Ummm....an old Oregon commem from Lithuania? What could possible be wrong with it?

I bought a lot of raw coins.
But always evaluating them in person and in his hand.
And always discarding those that gave me the slightest doubt.
I bought online only certified coins or coins from a reliable source.
This is my experience

moxking - I'll take your word for it, as I'm not sure I can't discern these details (i.e., "Note the loss of almost all fine details especially on the reverse. All of the letters both obverse and reverse appear "fat" and round"). Thanks! How did you assess the Hawaiian half dollar he/she is selling is fake - certain details don't look right there too?

spaceace - I recently got burned buying an 1836 bust half dollar via a local auction (but an hour away so I placed an absentee bid). When the coin arrived, it was evident to have been harshly cleaned. The auction house did precisely as you say in the photos they supplied (i.e., angle of the lights, brightness). My expectation of honesty and presumed quality was flawed, now I'm stuck with it as they won't take it back. I hope to minimize such mistakes like this going forward.

Foxwoods Man - yes, the Lithuanian seller and low total sales made me suspect. Trying to use this example as a learning experience to be able to discern problems from just looking at the coin itself...unfortunately, only non-close-up photos here.