Looking For A Ballpark Figure - Proof Sets

Figure you'll average about 90% bid if you ship them to a big wholesaler.

Nice lots like this will get about 110% bid on ebay but it can be risky. Dealers usually only pay about 70% of bid because of the expense and work in shipping.

Almost all sets like this will end up at one of the big companies but can pass through a few hands first. Only about 20% of the mint and proof sets sold to BM dealers will walk out in a retail transaction but this is up from 5% only ten years ago.

I have a few proof coins, but I only go for those made before about 1960.

It was after this time that mints realized that large profits could be made from them by producing proof coins in their millions for sale to collectors.
To make them more marketable, the fields were polished and the details cameoed.
Earlier proof coins generally do not have these features, but were instead made from selected blanks and were the first strikes off selected, and sometimes dies that were more carefully prepared.
They were made at the start of a new issue so that manufacturing standards could be maintained. They were not necessarily produced separately from business issues.
For this reason, novice collectors may not see major differences in appearance between business strikes and older proof coins.

The result for me? I have only a very few proof coins in my collection.
Much older proof coins tend to be very scarce and expensive, so that limits my acquisition of them. Often only a tiny number were made (10 to 100). Because of much more primitive packaging, (if any at all), older proof coins are much more subject to damage, carbon spotting on copper and bronze coins, and unsightly toning.
This helps to explain with older British Proof coins at least, why impaired proofs are often not valued at any more than an equivalent condition business strike coin.

It is a worthwhile exercise to slab older proof coins, to simply help recognize them for what they are, and to more permanently protect them.
I am not a fan of slabbing, but at least I use British Royal Mint style hard acrylic screw capsules, and sometimes put those in presentation boxes made for modern proof coins.

Yes, crazyglue - 1950 to date & all of the silver proofs from 1992 on as well (basically, two full sets) - I looked for the best when purchasing, only 1950 & 1951 are in Whitman holders, the rest are OP. Anything before 1950 is pretty cost prohibitive on my budget - picked up the '50 through '55 about 8 years ago when prices were just a bit lower.
If anyone herein might be serious on purchasing as a whole, I can send pics instead of posting in the forum - I'll pull them out for photos this morning, I suppose. - and I would never sell to Littleton, lol

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I agree.