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 Replies: 16 / Views: 1,541 |
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Valued Member
United States
112 Posts |
Hi everyone. I Just got an email today saying I've made 100 posts and was really excited about it. This has been a growing hobby of mine for only about 3 years now and my favorite part about it isn't so much collecting but, looking for those cool variety coins. I have found some nice coins with no varieties or errors, like my vdb 1909 but, it's an awesome feeling when I match every description for a variety with the die makers off a site like Wexler's. I'd really like to start being able to sell my finds, and in order to sell, I feel like I should, or need to get my coins I think are valuable; verified and certified and graded by a reputable organization. Take this 1968 dime, I confidently believe it's a DDO but, I don't believe the grade much higher than vf-30. I have no idea what the value could possibly be, but, I find it hard to imagine it's worth the expense, even if I'm right about the variety and receive a higher grade than I rate it for. how do I go about selling those that probably aren't worth being certified or, can I even do that? Than I have the problem of selling. Where and how do I even get started? Any one willing to drop an opinion..? Maybe reveal a trade secret..? Offer up your opinion on the coin I mentioned..? I'd GREATLY APPRECIATE IT. Thanks   *** Moved by Staff to a more appropriate forum. *** |
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Rest in Peace
10197 Posts |
#1, my craw gets really agitated by the "send it in" phrase, so please bear with me. 99% of Error coins hold values of less than $100, if that even. To send a $2 DDO in will cost you $40 to have it slabbed or $5-10 to have it attributed By Wexler. Is it really worth it...NO. #2, this "error coin sales" market is really only as good as the price someone will pay, regardless of how some "professional" organization or individual has set a value for that coin. An RPM of a 1950S Lincoln as valued by http://www.coppercoins.com in MS65 at $12 is currently languishing on ebay for $5...no takers, few looker. #3, take your dime for example. Many here with the proper pictures supplied will not only identify if there is a legitimate error, but tell you exactly what, where, list #'s,, grade and value...for free. By the pix supplied I can not tell a darn thing. I do see a very circulated late stage coin, this puts doubts immediately as to a DDO and look more for damage or MD. We are more than happy to help you, but please realize this market of error coins is not as lucrative as portrayed in many, many,many, many, many, many, many, uh, lots of "Get Rich Quick" books (not a fan of any of 'em!) Errors that sell are production ones not striking ones most often. |
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Valued Member
 United States
112 Posts |
that was really informative, thanks. I've got no dreams of grandeur or wants too get rich quick. I'm not in it for "money" except you be able to fund the extra expenses I need to be able to indulge in my hobbies a bit more. I really enjoy the search and the research. The pics I take always seen to look better and be easier to see what I see before I download 'em on to here. I can't figure out how to take or upload clean quality photos. I take hours sometimes methodically cross checking, searching for known die markers, and trying to photograph. I didn't mean to come off sounding like I did. I love this hobby, I don't wanna cheapin' it or come off looking like all I care about is finding a way to make a big payout. I just want to get rid of some of what I think I might have, in a way, that people can trust what their getting is what I've said; so I can afford the extra $ for flips, a better loop and down the road afford to contribute to some of these sites, that I've used to teach me so much about becoming a numismatist.
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Rest in Peace
10197 Posts |
If there's anything I may be able to do to help, let me know. Haven't had real success on selling coins much, but have done some. And yea, like you that little bit helps fund the hobby!
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Rest in Peace
United States
17900 Posts |
Although error coins can and are much more difficult to value I would still use a "standard" dollar figure to consider a TPG. For me, if the coin will not SELL for $200 or more, I don't send it in. If it will SELL for $200 or more I save it until I have at lest 16 raw coins to send to NGC. Why the figure of 16? It's the lines for coins on submission sheets and it keeps the other costs like postage and standard submission charges to a minimum for each coin. |
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Valued Member
United States
112 Posts |
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Valued Member
United States
112 Posts |
That's a good idea. Thanks moxking. Part of the reason I haven't done it yet is because I'm not sure, or at least not confident in the potential value of the coins I want to send. Even some of the coins I've spent hours ensuring every listed detail is present and the listed variety is practically the same as my coin, I worry about the grade. It's difficult for me to locate potential accurate values and tree values I find are for ms60/70 bu60 or at minimal au50/55. And one grade lower can be a difference between that coin be valued at $200, and being valued at $20... or worse $2! Lol those pics still didn't come out well, and for some reason, 1 loaded twice and two others not at all.
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Valued Member
United States
112 Posts |
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Valued Member
United States
112 Posts |
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Rest in Peace
10197 Posts |
The reason not found, is that is classic MD, machine damage and not doubled dies. I'll get up in a few (let the drugs kick in) and post a few charts that may help you see it better (get on computer). THE RULE, can't state it enough, if the device is REDUCED in size, its MD. It MUST BE INCREASED in size/to be a hub doubled event. Read Vol. 1 below in my signature box, this simply describes the processes and differences.
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Valued Member
United States
112 Posts |
Oh wow, thanks. That's helpful. I haven't read anything yet that's really spelled it out like that
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Rest in Peace
10197 Posts |
Edited by Crazyb0
12/31/2017 6:38 pm
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Valued Member
United States
112 Posts |
HAHAHA My drugs have been kicked in for awhile here. Thanks for that info. After reading that 1st part, and then seeing those diagrams, I can CLEARLY see the doubling is shelf like and flat, and its all very uniformed. Not at all like I was thinking it was
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Valued Member
United States
112 Posts |
Ok, another quick question. They mentioned annealed errors, and then brought up a nickle referred to as black beauty; I have a bi centennial quarter like that. That depreciates the coin, it doesn't add value to it, right? I need to go back through done pig the things I think I might of found and recheck   |
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Valued Member
United States
112 Posts |
Oh..! And master hub doubling.. omw from 1965/66 ect... quarters; even if they're spot on matched, with additional DDR DDO varieties. They're not only common but, of little to no additional value |
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Rest in Peace
10197 Posts |
You're learning quick! Good for you. The The Official "Black Beauty" thread we started earlier this year, an interesting coin for sure, but those are nickels, not clad coins and only from certain years for the "official" ones. A stained or discolored coin like the quarter is damage, environment, fire, water, may things affect the cladding layers. Nickels are clads remember, react different. and yes, MDD catches many folks, get 'em about once a month on the 1972 Lincoln just swearing they have one of the different varieties that isn't listed yet...snort!  Edited by Crazyb0
12/31/2017 7:25 pm
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Replies: 16 / Views: 1,541 |
Posted 12/31/2017 4:14 pm
