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 Replies: 23 / Views: 3,223 |
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New Member
United States
43 Posts |
Hello all! Like most collectors, I rely on the RedBook, gray sheets, and other price guides to determine the amount I am willing to pay for coins in their respective conditions. As you know, these guides price out values for coins for the grades of 4, 8, 12, 20, 40, 50, etc. Generally, if I run across a coin in between grades (F-15, VF-30, XF-45, etc.) AND the date has a generally consistent ratio between its condition and value across the spectrum of all grades, I value such a coin by averaging the two values of whichever two grades the coin falls between. But this strategy becomes problematic with series that have dismal survival rates of mid-grade coins, like Barbers and Standing quarters. For most dates, the values of a G, VG, and F can be clustered low, then the value skyrockets at VF and above. I'm in search of advice on how other collectors handle valuing coins that fall between price guide grades. For example, I just purchased a problem-free 1905-O Barber quarter for $125, which I would grade as a F-15. NumisMedia lists the value of a F-12 as $77 and a VF-20 as $198. Another example is the 1919-D Standing quarter. A seller on ebay has a PCGS VF-35 for $525. A VF-20 is valued at $360 and a XF-40 at $600. Thanks in advance. |
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Moderator
 United States
56855 Posts |
First off do not use Red Book for values. Use numismedia.com and ebay sold values. I think what I would do is add the prices together and then divide by two,$360+$600=$960 divide by 2 = $480 John1  |
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New Member
 United States
43 Posts |
I actually haven't purchased a new RedBook for many years since price guides like NumisMedia have been published online. |
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Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21786 Posts |
Bit difficult to buy coins that are between grades, because there is not much difference between Sheldon grades.
Can be a problem with the British grading system.
A problem does arise however, when a coin has split grades one side from the other.
It does really pay to learn how to grade and value for yourself, rather than rely on slab grades.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1302 Posts |
ebay completed auctions has always been my best indicator.
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote:
I think what I would do is add the prices together and then divide by two,$360+$600=$960 divide by 2 = $480 That'd be fine for a VF 30, for a 35 that is low. Averaging a 20 and 40 gets you a 30 ball park. 35s will be just shy of 40 pricing as they are just shy of a 40 in grade. If they have a CAC they'll be even closer to the 40 price and in some cases could match or surpass it, same goes if they have exceptional eye appeal/quality. |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Quote:I actually haven't purchased a new RedBook for many years since price guides like NumisMedia have been published online. I too use the Red Book for a sort of price guide but it has to be at least 4 or 5 issues old. Yet always try to remember that for all coins, the true, real value is what is stated on the coin. Anything and everything else is what ever someone is willing to pay. Quote:
eBay completed auctions has always been my best indicator. And this is really true. You can show me all the price guides on Earth, but a coin is only worth what it sells for. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5029 Posts |
Recent sold auction prices give me the best idea of where the currently at on price.
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Moderator
United States
187702 Posts |
Quote:Use numismedia.com and ebay sold values.  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3323 Posts |
Since not all prices follow a linear progression, it might be helpful to plot price vs grade on a graph and use that for your estimate. You could also use this to see outliers. Fun anyway   "Nummi rari mira sunt, si sumptus ferre potes." - Christophorus filius Scotiae
Edited by Bump111
01/16/2018 09:48 am
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CCF Advertiser
United States
1533 Posts |
Its nowhere near linear. VF-30 coins trade slightly above VF-20 money and VF-35 coins more, but still some percentage relative to VF money. When there is a big jump in price between VF and XF money, the coin will have to be XF-45 to get the XF money.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1370 Posts |
The president of our local coin club gave me a rule of thumb when he purchases coins that are in between grades. He said typically 15% to 30% higher on the in between VF grades and about 25% at XF 45. Granted this is a generalization, but if you look at auction prices realized its pretty close.
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Valued Member
New Zealand
148 Posts |
I think something needs to be said about coins with exceptional eye appeal. For example, you may be able to find plenty of XF 1840 Braided Hair LCs at RedBook (for example) prices but you won't be able to touch a prime, well-struck coin of the same date and grade at that price level. It works the other way, as well, of course. The dinged up XF coin (that will still straight grade) will sell for less than price guide. |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
94367 Posts |
Agree with numismedia.com and ebay results. Premium eye-coins are worth premium prices, grading aside.  to the CCF! |
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Moderator
United States
187702 Posts |
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Premium eye-coins are worth premium prices, grading aside. Truth. I am willing to pay more for a coin that has a lower grade, but superior eye appeal. |
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Rest in Peace
United States
17900 Posts |
Aoraki has made the most sense, thus far. To begin with, there are enough grades in the Sheldon system that the number of in between coins are marginal, at best. A coin is graded by all three sides resulting in a single number the vast majority of the time. No matter what price guide you use, with the exception of recent results at auction or on ebay with comparisons for both grade and eye appeal, any other guide can only give one part of a two part equation. That being: Technical Grade +/- Eye Appeal = Value. Make it simple. Pick any coin that sells regularly in a relatively easy technical grade. In other words coins that sell fairly frequently. Go to Heritage and check sold prices. For the same technical grade you will find huge ranges in value because of the eye appeal factor. Also notice that Heritage lists something like 10 different price guides on almost every coin. Why go to all the different places when you get all the prices right next to each other? Price is a sharp hook only. |
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Replies: 23 / Views: 3,223 |
Posted 01/16/2018 04:56 am
