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Replies: 138 / Views: 19,676 |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
6514 Posts |
Quote: That's being the Master of Ambiguity  Spruett Thanks MikeF for the informative thread.
Edited by chafemasterj 04/08/2018 10:15 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7375 Posts |
Seems industry standard to overgrade coins a bit when selling. Imo you didn't do too bad. Yes your coins came back a bit under the grade on the 2x2, but none of them were "details." I just assume all LCS coins are over graded, and that just gives me a starting point to arrive at my own grade. Heck, not only overgraded, but usually overpriced too :-/
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
94367 Posts |
Like others, I pay no attention to a dealer's grade on a raw coin or note, and only cursory attention to what's on a slab. No one to blame but myself, which is how it should be. Learned that the hard way as a teen.
But there are some consistently reliable local and national dealers out there whose grades are consistently accurate even if their pricing is on the high side - Jack Beymer would be an excellent example.
Edited by Coinfrog 04/08/2018 10:34 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
8715 Posts |
Quote:
Thoughts? Learn how to grade so you don't rely on the dealer's grades. Nearly every dealer overgrades their coins, so you need to learn how to grade so you can tell what a fair price is.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
6370 Posts |
There are two coin shops in Greensboro, NC. One often overgrades and ignores problems, and the other nails the grades and sometimes undergrades. I am sure you can guess which one I frequent.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4469 Posts |
Depending on grades from dealers is a slippery slope. About 7 years I was buying MS Morgans from a dealer and filling an album. I decided to get the coins graded by NGC. The dealer grades were mostly accurate on the common dates, but each better date sold to me as a MS 62 or MS 63 was in fact a 58. It was no error on the dealers part as all my better dates came back as 58. The lessons I learned was not to trust the seller's grades and how to tell circulation rub on a brilliant Morgan and buy slabs on expenisive coins. As noted above do your own grading. I see no reason to stop buying from dealers if the price is right and I like the coin.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7620 Posts |
Coin dealers are like used car dealers.
They both rate THEIR raw products better they they really are and do it because of one thing --- money!
They both rate YOUR raw products worse than they really are and do it because of one thing --- money!
It's been that way a long time.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
655 Posts |
jdmern: Quote: What exactly is a 'Fair deal' to you then? Is it purchasing at a price where you can immediately turn a large profit? Or is it sold at a price where the actual market dictates it should be sold at?... I'm not talking about lowballing at all. That's a strategy a dealer would use. I'm not a dealer, I'm a collector. And, there is no way I would pay a dealer 50% over FMV for a typical coin. If you're not sure what FMV is for your stuff, you can check the listings on http://www.coinprices.org/ or https://www.bestcoin.com/ and auction sites like HA and ebay for recent results. That's what I do. Sure, there's variations based on eye appeal, scarcity of variety, or even prior ownership but, for typical coins at a set grade, the price range is pretty narrow. How a dealer seems to make money is by lowballing when buying, both by undergrading and underpaying, and then by overgrading and overpricing, when selling. And, I don't mean an acceptable 10-25% markup. I'm talking 50%. That's been my experience. If you can get a particular price for something you have, by all means do it. I would do it, too.
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Valued Member
240 Posts |
It's the insane prices I've seen at Pawn Shops that I find hilarious... and they act like they have great deals and know something about coins. Once I was discussing a price with a Pawn Shop dealer (or at best a We Buy Gold dealer) at a coin show and he pulled out a Grey Sheet to act like he was checking prices. I asked if I could see and he said ... "No, you have to be a licensed dealer with an active tax ID# to get this pricing sheet and it's illegal for me to show it to you." I proceeded to pull out my Grey Sheet and show if that he was at almost 2x the Grey Sheet value on a PCGS graded Morgan dollar. I'd say most of my local coins shops are pretty good on pricing... especially if you pay with cash.
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
In general what you have described does happen a lot and a lot more than most people realize. It's not always something that is shady though, honestly a lot of dealers can't really grade all that well but there are plenty who do that intentionally and plenty that crack out problem coins or boarderline coins that they know they could sell for more raw. There are good shops out there, but in my experience there's more shady ones than great ones. Quote: Begs the question: Should shop owners be held accountable in these situations? Not for grading differences since it's an art not a science. In the end they are held accountable as they generally lose customers quickly once they figure it out
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Rest in Peace
United States
17900 Posts |
A point to keep in mind in any category, including coins. An educated dealer can grade and has often done enough business to have a very good feel for the selling price of many coin types. Keeping that in mind any dealer makes there profit from their purchase prices. If they know coin A in grade 25 always sells at $45-50, buying at $30 insures a profit. However, the VAST majority of coins taken to coin stores for sale are junk. Partially filled blue Whitman Lincoln's with no keys, 1970's proof sets with problems, a Morgan dollar that the potential seller believes is a $10,000 coin even when the dealer shows them a stack of them for $17 each, and other "stuff". Specialist shops, such as coin dealers, will be a memory for old folks, just like a rotary dial phone. Why pay overhead when you have 100 online sites to sell on? Overgrading is the norm for many shops simply because they are hoping to be able to make it to the completion of their rental period.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
10038 Posts |
Quote: And every time I've done it, the grade comes back 1 or 2 grades lower than what the shop owner claimed. As Baseball said, TPG grading is not an exact science, but, as they proclaim, an art. So who is "right," the local or the TPG? Consider: 1. NGC, ANACS, and PCGS each have their own, self-defined standards. - the same coin is not guaranteed the same grade if cross submitted. - so who is "right" in this case? - In fact the same coin resubmitted to the SAME TPG is never guaranteed the same grade. 2. TPGs give courses to "tune" their graders into how their system is set up. - if your local has not had these courses, then it is unlikely your local dealer will be consistent to any of the differing TPG systems. The issue at hand might (note that word) be more accurately stated as you dealer is consistently higher in assigning grades than PCGS/NGC/ANACS (whichever one you are referring to). I agree with Spruett. Learn to grade for yourself. Now if you enjoy the satisfaction of a label printed with a certain number... go for it and collect that way. But even then, learn to buy the coin and not the label so you don't accidentally get taken by an error.
How much squash could a Sasquatch squash if a Sasquatch would squash squash? Download and read: Grading the graders Costly TPG ineptitude and No FG Kennedy halveshttps://ln5.sync.com/dl/7ca91bdd0/w...i3b-rbj9fir2
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote:As Baseball said, TPG grading is not an exact science, but, as they proclaim, an art. So who is "right," the local or the TPG? Not TPG grading, all grading. His point is that when every coin is consistently high from the local dealer it appears intentional and probably is. One of the things most people don't consider enough is that there are plenty of places that crack out graded coins knowing what they were to get the higher prices raw. A good percentage of these better raw coins have been to a TPG before
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
10038 Posts |
Quote:Not TPG grading, all grading. True - thanks for the clarification.
How much squash could a Sasquatch squash if a Sasquatch would squash squash? Download and read: Grading the graders Costly TPG ineptitude and No FG Kennedy halveshttps://ln5.sync.com/dl/7ca91bdd0/w...i3b-rbj9fir2
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
3479 Posts |
With regard to the 'learn how to grade' comments. I feel like I already have good command of it. But when you're talking about a point or two, the case gets hard to argue on coins that one really wants. Especially in series that are tough to grade. Those capped bust halves all had beautiful toning that I knew would command a premium at auction. That's why I cherry picked them. The Seated dollar was original with nice album toning that's hard to find on coins in that series. Now the coins that I purchased raw from a local dealer when I was a kid were just atrociously overgraded. One even had graffiti that was never mentioned on the original 2x2. I really took the high hard one on those. Baseball hit the nail on the head with his comment. Quote: His point is that when every coin is consistently high from the local dealer it appears intentional and probably is.
Edited by MikeF 04/08/2018 6:39 pm
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Replies: 138 / Views: 19,676 |