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Replies: 17 / Views: 2,748 |
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New Member
United States
23 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7618 Posts |
 .... to the Community! There is no point grading coins such as those that are pictured. They are all common and grading them will not add value enough to offset any grading fees. Your heirs can ask the same question 100 years from now and the answer will probably be the same.
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Moderator
 United States
56855 Posts |
 to CCF. As a general rule,the coins needs a retail value of at least $100-$150 to justify all costs involved in slabbing. IMHO,none of the posted coin are worth the expense. John1 
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
17884 Posts |
Just the 1982 D cent, but only if it weighs around 3.1 grams.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
94367 Posts |
None of these merit TPG grading.  to the CCF!
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New Member
 United States
23 Posts |
I see coins like these selling through great collections and heritage selling all the time for a decent amount though. Am I missing something?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
659 Posts |
If Heritage accepted any coin denominations like yours for auction, you can bet the farm that they were of a highly exceptional grade.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1667 Posts |
Lue 311, depends on what you mean by "great amount". these aren't going to grade better than MS65 I don't think, so they won't be top population examples from a grading company. Let's take the 1919 S for example. likely this gets an AU.... somthing. Best case Maybe MS62 Brown? I don't know. Anyways, getting it graded will cost like $17, and then about $34 for return shipping from them, and also what it cost you to send it to them. Lets call it about $60 all in to get it graded, could be a bit more or a bit less depending on speed and insurance ect. This coin could be worth anywhere from $20-$85 depending on the grade it gets, and if it gets slabbed and details/cleaned or something then worth even less. It's going to cost you $60 to get it graded. Is it really worth it at that point to spend $60 on something that might put a total of $25 back in you pocket best case, and let the rest get eaten up by costs? or worst case, comes back AU53BN an worth $21? Some are pretty but the value isn't there like the 1952 S, where it need to basically be MS68 to break $80 dollars, others aren't pretty enough and won't grade high enough to make it worth it either. These are the kind of coins you probably shouldn't spend the money to get professionally graded, but worthy of a nice 2x2 or Album, and working on grading yourself to come up with an acceptable value range if the time comes to sell that doesn't involve paying a 3rd party grader $60. Anyways though, people spend the money and get stuff graded all the time they probably shouldn't, mostly because they think they should. this is why there's always graded cent on ebay, lets say a 2018 MS 68 and they are asking $2000 for it, while there's a MS 67 and they are asking $135 for it, and then a MS66 and they are asking $30 for it, and that's probably too much, lol. It's a gamble unless you know how to grade for sure, and know that it absolutely should make your fees back and a nice profit worth the time and effort of grading it.
Edited by Big-Kingdom 07/17/2019 4:38 pm
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Moderator
 United States
188130 Posts |
 to the Community!
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
10034 Posts |
 And what Big-Kingdom said is very wise.
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New Member
 United States
23 Posts |
Thanks big-kingdom that helps me a ton. So pretty much the only thing worth sending off for grading is pristine BU coins or errors that need to have an authentication more or less. My grandfather was a collector and I'm wanting to follow in his steps without killing myself financially. I do have a book of 74-2013 BU pennies however and most of those are in immaculate condition. I've seen where some of the 82 series coins can be worth a substantial amount any thoughts on this or am I holding to high of hopes?
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New Member
 United States
23 Posts |
One more question this Mercury dime has what appears to be another number or something behind the date if you look closely and I think it's the micro s variety does that make a difference?
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New Member
 United States
23 Posts |
Also the 1930 D has something incredibly strange going on with the date anyone have any ideas on that?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4691 Posts |
No. None of these are of much value.
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Rest in Peace
United States
18456 Posts |
The 30-D Lincoln is just a hit on the 3 . Need sharp close up of the 45-S Mint Mark on Mercury reverse . 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1667 Posts |
Hey Lue333, not all errors are high value and reach a selling price point worthy of getting them graded either. Many errors are $5-$10 coins and it doesn't make much sense to spend the money to get it slabbed when you'd actually lose money when you go to sell it. Good rule of thumb is to work on determining grades yourself and realizing where the MS65 cut off is, and where the MS67 cut off is ect and then drawing a line at a return of at least $150 if you sold it, to make it worth the time and effort for grading. Older coins may have a lower cut off Good, XF, AU ect. because of higher values and rarity. When you go to sell that graded coin, you'd want to at least get the $60 or so back, and another $100 or so as a minimum, I'd think, but everyone is different. I'll be honest, in any given year, the really high graded coins, MS68, MS69, MS70, are likely like 1 in millions of coins struck random perfection. It's possible to come across that 1, I'm sure people have to each year, but most people have no idea it is that special one when they see it and start rubbing their grubby finger all over it. 
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Replies: 17 / Views: 2,748 |