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How Much Is It Worth? Huge Canada Sm Cent Set.

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United States
190 Posts
 Posted 06/24/2020  12:14 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add pasasap to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
I am not selling anything here, I just wanted to know what do you think my set is worth if I were to list ii on ebay?

*** Moved by Staff to a more appropriate forum. ***

Business Strike:

Coin Representing Head Type BU R&B
1920 BU Mostly Red
1921 BU R&B
1922 VF
1923 VF
1924 VF
1925 Ch-VF
1926 XF
1927 Ch-VF
1928 BU
1929 (High 9) XF
1929 (Medium 9) BU R & B
1929 (Low Blunt 9) BU (Glossy Brown)
1929 (Low Pointed 9) XF
1930 Ch-XF
1931 VF
1932 BU R&B
1933 BU R&B
1934 BU R&B
1935 BU R&B
1936 BU R&B
1937 to 2012 Choice BU Red to Superb Gem BU Red
Varieties: 1947 (B7), 1947 (MLB7), 1947 (MLP7), 1948 (A Points Between Denticles), 1948 (A Points to Small Denticle), 1948 (A Points to Large Denticle), 1949 (A Points Between Denticles), 1949 (A Point to Denticle), 1953 (NSF), 1953 (SF), 1954 (SF), 1955 (SF), 1959 (B5), 1959 (P5), 1965 (Types 1,2,3,and 4), 1983 (Far & Near Beads), 1985 (B5), 1985 (P5), 2002-P, 2003-P (Mature Queen), 2003-P (Crowned Elderly Queen) to 2006-P, 2006 (No LOGO, Off-Metal Error Steel instead of Zinc, Magnetic, RARE).
Missing: 1955 (NSF)

Prooflike:

1953 to 2012 PL Red
Varieties: 1954 (SF), 1965 (Type 2,SBB5), 1965 (Type 3, LBB5), 1983 (Near Beads), 1996 & 1997 (Striated Fields not Mirror Fields), 1998-W, 1999-P (In Special PL Set, you get the entire set), 2000-W, 2000-P, 2001-P, 2002-P, 2003-P (Mature Queen), 2003-WP (Crowned Elderly Queen), 2004 (Test Token), 2004-P, 2005-P, 2006-P, 2006 (Elderly Queen w/o Crown & With Logo, Steel, Magnetic) to 2010.
Missing: 1954 (NSF) & 1983 (Far Beads)

Special Mint Set Strikes: These are extra special Business Strikes found in special sets, they are not considered Prooflike.

2007 (Zinc), 2010 (Steel), 2011 (Zinc), and 2012 (Steel).

Specimen Strikes: From VIP Sets!

1953 (SF) SP Brown and 1965 (Type 2, SBB5) SP Brown
Note: I have not been able to verify if the 1953 or 1965 are actually Specimen Strikes, I did not pull them from the sets myself.

Specimen Strikes: (Mirror-Like Fields)

1967, 1971 to 1995 SP Red (SP-64 and better)
Varieties: 1983 (Near Beads)
Missing: 1983 (Far Beads)

Specimen Strike: (Striated Fields)

1996 to 2012 SP Red
Varieties: 1998 (Large Cent Commemorative), 2001-P to 2003-P (Mature Queen), 2003-P (Crowned Elderly Queen) to 2006-P, and 2007 (Steel) to 2012 (Steel).

Proof Strikes:

1981 to 2012 PR Red DCAM
Varieties: 1998 Large Cent Copper plated over Silver, 2003 (Young Queen Head), 2003 (Golden Plated Leaf), 2012 Silver Commemorative five coin set with some coins graded by NGC. Mintage for this set is only 5,000, so these silver pennies are extremely rare. 2012 gold plated leaves silver Commemorative Small Cent. 2017 Gold Plated Silver Commemorative Small Cent.

Error Set: This is a mix of clashing errors, machine errors, true on die errors, and other errors.

Business Strikes with Hanger Errors (All BU Red): 1950 (Hanging 0 & Cocoon), 1951 (Extra Bud), 1953 NSF (Hanging 3), 1953 (Hanging 3, Extra Leaf and 5/5), 1954 (Die Breaks & 54/54), 1954 (Hanging 4), 1955 (Hanging 5), 1957 (Hanging 7), 1957 (Double Hanging 7), 1958 (Hanging 8), 1959 (Hanging 9), 1960 (Hanging 0), 1961 (Hanging 1), 1961 (Double Hanging 1), 1962 (Hanging 2), 1962 (Hanging 2 & 1 single die crack line from 1 to Leaf), 1962 (Harp Error), 1962 (Guitar Error), 1963 (Hanging 3), 1963 (Ghost Hanging 3 & Dot inside top loop of 9), 1963 (Double Hanging 3), 1964 (Hanging 4), 1979 (Hanging 9 & Doubled Obv).

PL Strikes with Hanging Errors (PL Red): 1963 (Hanging 3)

Other Errors (All BU Red): 1947 (Scar Face Die Break), 1949 (Obv Die Break), 1949 (Die Crack at Neck), 1952 (Die Break on Rev), 1953 NSF (Doubled 953), 1953 NSF (Doubled REGINA) & Doubled Date), 1955 (Metal in 9), 1958 (Repunched 8), 1958 (Repunched 58), 1958 (Repunched 958), 1959 (NO MG), 1961 (Doubled KG), 1963 ( DDR), 1964 (Extra Spine), 1964 ( Cud on 9), 1966 (Possible Thin Planchet Error), 1967 (Doubled 1967), 1967 (Doubled 1867-1967), 1967 (Doubled CANADA), 1967 (Doubled REGINA), 1967 (Doubled Profile), 1967 (DDO, Doubled Wings), 1969 (Double Profile), 1969 (Doubled Date), 1973 (Double Profile), 1978 (Repunched 8), 1978 (Repunched 78), 1979 (Hanging Bud Die Clash Error), 1979 (Cocoon Die Clash Error), 1979 (Double Cocoon Die Clash Error), 1979 (Cocoon & Doubled 79), 1979 (Doubled 979), 1979 (Crying Queen), 1979 (Bearded Queen), 1979 (Doubled Profile), 1999 (Repunched 99, Bud and Stem), 1999 (Repunched 999, Bud and Spine), 1999 ( DDR), 2003-P (Closed G in REGINA), and 2008 (No Earring).

Other Errors (PL Red): 1963 ( Cud on Date), 1965 (Ear to Neck Die Clashing Error), 1965 (Dot Next to Stem), 1977 (Repunched Date), and 1979 (Repunching at base of T in CENT)

Other Errors (PR Red): 1983 (Teeth on Rim)

What would you expect to pay for a set like this one? Would you brake it up and sell it in sections?
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Coinfrog's Avatar
United States
94367 Posts
 Posted 06/24/2020  12:23 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Coinfrog to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Without pics, any valuation would just be a useless guess.
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hfjacinto's Avatar
United States
7273 Posts
 Posted 06/24/2020  2:05 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add hfjacinto to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I can't answer your specific question as you didn't include pictures and you have a lot of items listed. But I have a Canadian small cents set completed and I paid around $100 for all the coins. So assume the standard coins are worth $100, you have to price the non standard one.
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Keith67's Avatar
United States
6524 Posts
 Posted 06/24/2020  2:56 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Keith67 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
How Much Is It Worth?

As someone said before. Why is that always the first question
Its not up to us to tell you what your coins are worth.
Do some homework Frog
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Finn235's Avatar
United States
6130 Posts
 Posted 06/24/2020  3:04 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Finn235 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Certainly at least a dollar.
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Canada
5324 Posts
 Posted 06/24/2020  3:16 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add john100 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
You should post a pic of the possible 1966 thin planchet in the error section, if it is, it's worth more than all the other errors combined
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SPP-Ottawa's Avatar
Canada
10456 Posts
 Posted 06/24/2020  5:27 pm  Show Profile   Check SPP-Ottawa's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add SPP-Ottawa to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Use the search function with sold items on ebay to ascertain value. A couple of comments, as well...

- BU or Choice BU and Gem BU really doesn't matter, if the coins are not certified. A George VI PCGS MS-64 Red is hardly worth the cost of certification for most dates, while a PCGS MS-66 Red will command a serious price. Buyers generally only pay MS-62 to MS-63 money for any raw BU coin.

- big price point difference for the 1953 SF and 1965 specimen strikes. I highly doubt you can sell those for SP money unless you have a buyer that really knows their 1-cent strikes, or unless you get them certified.

- the minor errors, which are really only die clashes and Machine Doubling, are generally not worth that much of a premium, you see ebay sales from roll searchers all the time. Minor variety and error collectors actually prefer to find these themselves, rather than buy them.

- the coins that should command a good price, if MS-63+ Red are (not including the two specimen coins I mentioned earlier): 1948 A to small denticle, 1949 A to denticle, 1953SF (if >95% red), 1965 Type 4, 1985 Pointed 5, 2006 Magnetic and 1965 Type 3 PL, and the 1966 thin planchet.
"Discovery follows discovery, each both raising and answering questions, each ending a long search, and each providing the new instruments for a new search." -- J. Robert Oppenheimer

Content of this post is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 3.0 Unported License. See: http://creativecommons.org/licenses...0/deed.en_US

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SPP-Ottawa's Avatar
Canada
10456 Posts
 Posted 06/24/2020  5:36 pm  Show Profile   Check SPP-Ottawa's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add SPP-Ottawa to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Would you brake it up and sell it in sections?


That is what a coin dealer would do (and they are in the business of selling coins, and I used to be one as well):

- sell the key dates and harder, expensive varieties individually
- certify anything from 1937 to 1965 if it has a shot at MS-65 or better
- lump the rest and wholesale it out as a bulk lot or auction lot

Generally, most dealers do the opposite of what Aristotle once noted. For them, the sum of the pieces are greater than the whole...
"Discovery follows discovery, each both raising and answering questions, each ending a long search, and each providing the new instruments for a new search." -- J. Robert Oppenheimer

Content of this post is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 3.0 Unported License. See: http://creativecommons.org/licenses...0/deed.en_US

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silverwolf's Avatar
Canada
3733 Posts
 Posted 06/24/2020  8:31 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add silverwolf to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
SPP- summed it up well for you.. You need to do the research for the prices you want to sell your coins at..

There is no way we can give you an estimate without us doing the research for you..

That is a can of worms, I am not interested in opening..
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Coinfrog's Avatar
United States
94367 Posts
 Posted 06/24/2020  8:52 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Coinfrog to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
You have a lot of work to do. We'll be happy to evaluate individual coins from pics as you dig into this collection.

Is there a LCS you can take this to for evaluation?
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Canada
1505 Posts
 Posted 06/24/2020  10:33 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add purelywasted to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Coinsandcanada.com, look at ebay prices

For most of what you listed, it should be graded if you expect a decent price.if it is low value and ungraded, bulk sale and expect it to go cheap. Some of the more scarce stuff might get a decent price, but not much if ungraded, there is too many you can buy graded for low prices.
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thedollarman's Avatar
Canada
4911 Posts
 Posted 06/26/2020  10:47 pm  Show Profile   Check thedollarman's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add thedollarman to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
*** Edited by Staff - Please review the rules that you agreed to when you registered. ***
Feel free to call me Will.
Valued Member
United States
190 Posts
 Posted 06/30/2020  3:30 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add pasasap to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I could not find a tab that would allow me to answer each person's question individually, so I will try to answer a few of the questions in this summery.

I have taken photos of most of the coins in the collection but it would not be practical to post all the photos on this forum. We are talking about hundreds of coins and hundreds of photos. If you want to see one of the coins, I certainly can post a photo of it, just let me know which one. Please use my checklist as a reference.

Although most of the coins are not graded a few have been graded by grading companies and are slabbed or were slabbed in soft plastic holders. I removed all the coins in the soft holders and placed them is Air-Tite capsules because soft plastic damages coins. The grades still hold true and it has been my experience that if sent to PCGS or NGC you normally get the same grade or better. This is very expensive for me, so I do not send coins to be graded.

I do not have a Canada Small Cent specialist in my area, nor any legitimate Canada Small Cent coin dealers. Most of the foreign coin dealers only sell silver and most of the Small Cents are found in their junk boxes at discount prices. They do not buy Canada Small Cents, so I cannot get even a guess of value from them. I did live in an area where there were more dealers with better knowledge, but now I do not.

Please look at the post carefully before answering. I would not sell the entire collection for $100 as some of the coins in the set are worth more than $100. The 1949 (A to Denticle) is graded MS64 Red and is easily worth $200 or more. The collection is not something that would fit in your disco album, it is much larger and includes all RCM strike types, all years, and almost all known major varieties. The collection is missing the early SP strikes before 1967 including the 1936 dot worth millions. The set is also missing most of the off-metal errors as they are overprices and hard to get. The set is missing the 1954 NSF in PL and the 1955 NSF in Business Strike. The set might also be missing the 1983 (Far Beads) in PL and SP, but I was unable to purchase these coins despite the fact they are listed in the Charlton as common. I also never found photographic evidence supporting their existence, so I stopped looking for them as I do not have access to thousands of 1983 RCM sets and the dealers were not helpful. The dealers kept sending me Near Beads incorrectly labeled as Far Beads in PL, and nobody ever had it for sale in SP. My collection includes a Business Strike section with 1920 to 2012 missing the 1955 NSF; PL section with 1953 to 2012 missing the 1954 NSF; SP section 1967, 1971 to 2012 with unconfirmed 1965 and 1953 SF examples in SP; Special Business Strike (SMS) coins found only in certain mint sets; Proof section which is complete missing no varieties and includes all known special commemorative issues typically gold plated or made from silver; and an error section with a mix of true on die errors and machine errors such as all the hanger varieties. This is a huge collection, worth far more than $100.

The thin planchet coin has not been verified. I am not sure if it is a die error or artificially made through some kind of acid treatment. It does not look like the acid treated pennies on Youtube, but it does not mean it is not a scientific experiment. The dealer I purchased it from for 25 cents said he did not know or care, just thought it was an error coin. He had it in his junk pile along with a nice 1921 BU Red & Brown for $1 each, lol.

The 1965 was sold by a foreign coin dealer who only was concern about silver and gold Canada coins. It was marked Proof unlike the other pennies of the same year he had marked as PL. I asked why he had this one marked differently, and he said it came from a different kind of set in a leather case. This coin is not confirmed.

The 1953 SF is olive in color, but has a mirror-like finish. 1953 SF does not exist in PL, but does exist in SP, so I figured that is what it must be, but this has not been confirmed.

It seems the best advice is to sell the coins in sections. Some of these pennies are no longer available for sale on ebay. If I had to sell each section separately, I would probably add a special hard to get coin in each group to make it easier to sell the common coins too.

It almost sounds like I am better off setting the set aside until a later date. I am in no hurry to sell the set, but I was wondering what it might be worth if I was to list it as one lot. Any guesses?
Edited by pasasap
06/30/2020 3:37 pm
Pillar of the Community
Canada
5324 Posts
 Posted 06/30/2020  4:04 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add john100 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Your 66 thin planchet dollar if real could be worth a couple thousand, you are in the US, send to PCGS if slab as a thin planchet your are off to the races, 70 buck chance for great reward or post a pic of this coin with it's weight someone could help you here before you spend the 70 bucks.
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Canada
395 Posts
 Posted 06/30/2020  10:21 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Talonbat to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I would follow SPP's advice as it's bang on. You would think your idea of selling in sections with one good coin would be good but I don't think it will be worth your time, you will generally just get the value of the good coin and the rest would come along for free or practically for free. Best bet is to cert the good stuff and sell individually and bulk the rest. If you still love collecting and you're not in a rush why sell at all, there is no shortage of material with the aging collector demographic and unfortunately I don't think waiting will help.
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Canada
1505 Posts
 Posted 06/30/2020  11:04 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add purelywasted to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply


Quote:
I am in no hurry to sell the set, but I was wondering what it might be worth if I was to list it as one lot. Any guesses?


I would suggest you add up the sum of the parts and tell us what you think it is worth. You have a lot there, I would be surprised if anyone has time to do the math on a bulk lot for you.

Start it as an auction on ebay at $1000, when it doesn't sell drop the starting bid to $900, rinse and repeat. You'll get a quick idea of what a lot sale is worth.


Quote:
If you want to see one of the coins


Post what you think is interesting, people always like to discuss their grading skills, but the pictures have to be good.
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