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1923 S Nickel I'm Terrible At Even Guessing The Grade On These

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Pillar of the Community

United States
586 Posts
 Posted 12/10/2025  09:02 am Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add KerryKz to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers

1923-S-Nickel-I'm-Terrible-At-Even-Guessing-The-Grade-On-These
1923-S-Nickel-I'm-Terrible-At-Even-Guessing-The-Grade-On-These
1923-S-Nickel-I'm-Terrible-At-Even-Guessing-The-Grade-On-These
1923-S-Nickel-I'm-Terrible-At-Even-Guessing-The-Grade-On-These
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IndianGoldEagle's Avatar
United States
36745 Posts
 Posted 12/10/2025  09:26 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add IndianGoldEagle to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Looks like a G-6 to me.
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fortcollins's Avatar
United States
3647 Posts
 Posted 12/10/2025  09:36 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add fortcollins to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Your coin has fairly evenly matched dies, possibly EMDS obverse and MDS/LMDS reverse. The strike is typically soft for 1923-S, but has complete ribbons and in earlier condition likely would have had a full rachis and calamus on the second feather. There is heavy die polishing for the second feather / buffalo's head clash and moderate polishing for the LIBERTY / right rear leg clash and Indian's chin / EPU clash. Most of what appears as wear on the buffalo's head is from the clash polishing, since it doesn't match the wear seen on the buffalo's back.

Overall, the obverse is stronger than the reverse, reflecting the clash polishing and slightly different die states. On the obverse, LIBERTY is separate from the rim, the Indian's cheekbone is rounded, and there is some separation of the knots. On the reverse, disregarding the buffalo's head, there is about a third of the hair on the buffalo's hump and back, the lettering is separate from the rim (barely), and there is some detail on the buffalo's legs.

It is on the VG-10 / F-12 bubble, with the obverse just at F-12 and the reverse slightly lagging, appearing VG-08 but likely at VG-10. Some of the reverse can be explained as die polishing and a typically soft strike. There appears to be an older cleaning, and that likely nets it downward to the lower grade range, at VG-10.
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Bump111's Avatar
United States
3324 Posts
 Posted 12/10/2025  10:28 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Bump111 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Many (me included) have trouble grading Buffalo nickels, including TPGs. Rarely is variation in strike from mint-to-mint and year-to-year properly considered. I agree with the VG assessment. Thank you for sharing!
"Nummi rari mira sunt, si sumptus ferre potes." - Christophorus filius Scotiae
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jbuck's Avatar
United States
188560 Posts
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Errers and Varietys's Avatar
United States
74233 Posts
 Posted 12/10/2025  11:47 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Errers and Varietys to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I suck at grading Buffalo nickels as well. My first thought was VG for the grade.
Errers and Varietys.
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fortcollins's Avatar
United States
3647 Posts
 Posted 12/10/2025  12:48 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add fortcollins to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Distinguishing die polishing from circulation wear is challenging for mid- to lower-grade Buffalos. The wear removes evidence of the die polishing on the devices of more heavily circulated coins. One way to assess the amount of die polishing is to focus on the fields adjacent to the areas where devices are typically abraded.

On this coin, notice the amount of polishing still visible in the fields adjacent to the (worn) tip of the second feather and the gap between the (worn) buffalo's head and the "U" of UNITED. Here are marked clips from the OP's photos.
1923-S-Nickel-I'm-Terrible-At-Even-Guessing-The-Grade-On-These
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panzaldi's Avatar
United States
18665 Posts
 Posted 12/12/2025  09:37 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add panzaldi to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
i'd net this to VG10

thanks FC with your photos showing the polish areas. that helps a lot

anyone starting to collect this series really need to learn about them especially if purchasing raw. this is not a beginner series, easy to lose $$ on and the reason I really never collected them to any extent. I feel a lot more confident now after following FC's comments over the years but its still a challenge.
Pillar of the Community
United States
586 Posts
 Posted 12/27/2025  07:43 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add KerryKz to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I have quite a few of these. But these require so much in it to yrs and mint knowledge it's really hard to be accurate without a lot of research.. super helpful on the info thanks much
Pillar of the Community
United States
586 Posts
 Posted 01/11/2026  05:47 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add KerryKz to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Fortcollins I really appreciate all your info on this. I collected coins very ADHD style. And now have to many I don't know enough about..these in particular.. I'll think one looks great. And for that yr or mint... It's junk. And then ones I haven't looked twice at I'm afraid to get rid of because of my complete lack of knowledge.
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pristine2's Avatar
United States
1048 Posts
 Posted 01/11/2026  1:24 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add pristine2 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Nicely analyzed, thanks!
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panzaldi's Avatar
United States
18665 Posts
 Posted 01/12/2026  08:30 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add panzaldi to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
i think most collectors are in the same box as you when grading these. I've followed FC for years assessing these and have learned a lot but still do not know individual years and their die issues. best thing to do is post them here. one thing I do know and it's that I would never consider buying any keys or higher valued examples raw.
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