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NGC 1916-D Merc Dime, Guarenteed Low Population!

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Saruma's Avatar
United States
968 Posts
 Posted 04/20/2010  12:45 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Saruma to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Why is it better to undergrade than overgrade? Maybe for the buyer it is, but for the seller an overgrade is better. So I'd call it a wash, and neither is preferable. Correct grading should be the real goal.
Valued Member
The return of Coincrazed's Avatar
United States
171 Posts
 Posted 04/20/2010  1:56 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add The return of Coincrazed to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Why is it better? All right, a little philosophy here. It is not good, it is not bad. It depends on your situation. If you're a BUYER looking to BUY a 1916D Mercury -like me- and you see a coin that is in Fine-12 condition, but the slab says it's in Very Good-8, and if you can get it at a Very Good-8 price (which you had better if it says that on the slab), AH, your getting a DEAL, which is GOOD! But, at the same time, say you already OWN a raw 1916D Mercury dime in Fine-12, which you bought at a Fine-12 price. Say you send it in to NGC, and it comes back graded as Very Good-8. You wouldn't be able to sell it for as much as a Fine-12 graded Fine-12, and to you it would be BAD! So it all depends on your perspective. In my perspective, if I can get a Fine-12 coin that has been graded Very Good-8 at a Very Good-8 price, I would buy it, crack it from its slab and send it to PCGS, where they would overgrade it! Then should I want to sell it, I would be able to sell it for a much higher price than what I bought it for! (knowing PCGS, they call a true Very good a Fine, and a Fine a Very Fine) So it depends on your perspective, that's my opinion. - coincrazed
Edited by The return of Coincrazed
04/20/2010 2:01 pm
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DNA's Avatar
United States
2734 Posts
 Posted 04/21/2010  8:51 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add DNA to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Saruma: Coins like this will always have a market.
If you don't have a lot of money but are working on a Mercury set you
MUST have a 1916D. If you need that slot filled and are low on cash,
bottom grade coins are ideal.


The inclusion of a 1916-D in a Set of Mercury dimes makes the Set a
lot more desirable, simply because the 'big key date coin' is present.

Which do you think would sell quicker on ebay?:
Mercury Dime Set, minus only 1916-D
or:
Mercury Dime Set, INCLUDING 1916-D
(even if the coins in the "minus '16-D Set" were of higher grades overall?!)
Pillar of the Community
DNA's Avatar
United States
2734 Posts
 Posted 04/21/2010  9:05 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add DNA to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Of course, in another way, buying the low-grade 1916-D is like buying
a 1970's Silver Shadow sedan for $12,000 just so that you can say
"I have a Rolls-Royce".
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steve199's Avatar
United States
1882 Posts
 Posted 04/22/2010  10:24 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add steve199 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Which do you think would sell quicker on ebay?:
Mercury dime Set, minus only 1916-D
or:
Mercury dime Set, INCLUDING 1916-D
(even if the coins in the "minus '16-D Set" were of higher grades overall?!)


In the raw? The set without the 1916-D might sell faster, and certainly is a less risky purchase. Only one (slabbed) purchase for the buyer to make to complete the set.

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