| Author |
Replies: 74 / Views: 17,812 |
|
Valued Member
United States
463 Posts |
This Saturday I got a 20 lot of slq that were all dateless and when I went through them were type 1 coins and out of the 2 one had a faint 16 so as you can imagine I am thrilled right now. Thats one of the things you got to love, I was just trying to fill the rest of my dateless roll up and I run it to this beauty. I will take some pics when I get home as I need to leave for work right now, I'm not sure how the pics will turn out with this camera as the screen is broken and its just aim and shoot. As I got the lot for only a 2 dollars over melt + shipping its amazing that the guy didn't see it. All he had to due was look at it for a second and would of saw the faint 16, he sold me a thousand dollar coin for 4 dollars  I def. want to sent it to be graded but I have never done so before so how does that work. Should I sent it to ANACS, NGC or PCGS and I want to send a few other coins to be graded as well but I'm worried about them getting lost or something. Any advice will be greatly appreciated and when I due sell the 1916 I will place it on here first. Tonight when I get home around 10 I will try my crappy camera out to see if I can capture it. Thanks so much Bryan
|
|
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1534 Posts |
Wow, congratulations!
Photos would definitely be a good way to confirm you have a 1916.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1523 Posts |
I would go ANACS just in case they have been cleaned so you won't lose your cash.
|
|
Valued Member
United States
323 Posts |
Wow that is amazing! Yes, pictures would help make a positive ID. That is sooo cool! and you can see the 16? amazing!
|
|
Valued Member
 United States
463 Posts |
yes you can see the 16 if you hold the coin at an angle, when I sent it to be graded how long due you think it would cost and also get back to me
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1534 Posts |
Just curious, but why would you want it to be graded? I'm sure many of the members here could tell if it is a genuine 1916 and what approximate grade it is in. Are you planning to keep or sell it?
|
|
Valued Member
 United States
463 Posts |
I'm planning on selling it and I know if I was going to buy a rare coin I wouldn't buy it raw. I'd would assume it would be better to sell it that way anyways with there being a big price differences between grades
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1534 Posts |
Yes, then slabbing it would be a good idea. I suggest PCGS as they are the most popular grading service and bring the most money. Quote: I'm planning on selling it and I know if I was going to buy a rare coin I wouldn't buy it raw Well that isn't always the case. If a potential buyer knows the series well enough there is nothing wrong with buying a rare raw coin. It all depends on how knowledgeable the collector is.
|
|
Rest in Peace
United States
4849 Posts |
Well, potential congratulations to you, but I wouldn't get too excited just yet. There are certain diagnostics specific to the 1916 die that will determine whether or not it is a 1916, and these have nothing to do with the date. If these diagnostics aren't present, it doesn't matter what you think the date says, it will not be a genuine 1916.
Several folks have found dateless ones using the diagnostics. What it seems you are describing is a partial date 1916. Almost always, the wear pattern is such on these that the bottom loop of the 1916 is by far the most apparent, and then the bottom of the rest of the digits are the second most apparent. Most of the partial dates(usually grading G-4 to 6) will have the top half of the entire date totally merged with the field, so only the bottom half is visible, and the loop of the six is clear. If you truly have a "partial date" 1916, it is more likely an AG3-G6, and more of the realm of 2k-4k. Though dateless ones occassionally slip through the cracks, it seems very unlikely that one with a partial date would, which is why I'm a bit hesitant with my "congratulations" at this point until pics are shown. I hope the best for you, and that would be a phenomonal find!
|
|
Moderator
 United States
16677 Posts |
Send it to PCGS.
swcoin.ecrater.com
|
|
Rest in Peace
United States
4849 Posts |
I posted these on another thread, but here is a comparison based on diagnostics between a heavily worn 1916 slq and 1917 slq.  
|
|
Moderator
 United States
15392 Posts |
Indeed .... a potential GREAT find ...... but ...  David
|
|
Valued Member
 United States
463 Posts |
I tried with the camera and all I'm getting is a fussy pictures, I will get a new camera sometime this week. I put it under a magnifying glass and I can see the 16 so its defensively there and the other one has a s mint so nope on that one. Right now comparing it to the pics above and it has the features of the 17 but I still am seeing the 6 so I'm going to keep it all by its self until I get a new camera. It doesn't look exactly like the ones above, its in better condition but it has the characteristics of the 17 but the thing that is driving me crazy after looking at the pics above is I can see part of the 1 and I can see the 6. If I can figure out how to scan it, I will due that in the morning to show everyone I'm not crazy
|
|
Rest in Peace
United States
4849 Posts |
Quote: I tried with the camera and all I'm getting is a fussy pictures, I will get a new camera sometime this week. I put it under a magnifying glass and I can see the 16 so its defensively there and the other one has a s mint so nope on that one. Right now comparing it to the pics above and it has the features of the 17 but I still am seeing the 6 so I'm going to keep it all by its self until I get a new camera. It doesn't look exactly like the ones above, its in better condition but it has the characteristics of the 17 but the thing that is driving me crazy after looking at the pics above is I can see part of the 1 and I can see the 6. If I can figure out how to scan it, I will due that in the morning to show everyone I'm not crazy this description is making me think potentially altered date. It's a lot easier to make the "7" look like a "6" than it is to change all of the more subtle die differences  If you aren't already on Heritage auctions, sign on for free. They have dozens of HUGE pictures of certified 1916 slqs in G-4/6 that you can compare to: http://coins.ha.com/common/search_r...367+62&Nty=1Another good diagnostic sight: http://www.slqcoins.us/educational.html
|
|
Rest in Peace
United States
5375 Posts |
I know next to nothing about SLQ diagnostics (though I did read the thread), but I can only echo what Johnny said....these ARE rare, 52000 were minted (a small fraction of more common dates), so be don't be too excited just yet. Its unlikely that a 1916 SLQ (even a dateless one) will just fall into your lap, and if one does, theres a high chance its fake.
Edited by coinguybrian 05/25/2010 01:55 am
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1934 Posts |
Bryan; where/from whom did you get these quarters?
I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you.
|
| |
Replies: 74 / Views: 17,812 |