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 Replies: 1,517 / Views: 102,447 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2295 Posts |
The thing about the ER part, there are many dies used, I don't see why just the first 30 days ever really matters?
It all depends upon how much the die was used for the proofs. They change the dies so often, they really don't get much of a chance wear and show less detail on the coin. That way most coins are consistent. Every once in a while, a proof coin will have a die crack, but that is quite rare. Probably more from a defect from within the die rather than for normal wear and tear of using the dies for a long time.
I think the US Mint lists changing the dies for proofs more often on their web site somewhere. I just didn't look for it.
The BU coins, there might be a difference, but I would think with the commems, they wouldn't use the dies until they break down, like with normal circulation coins, but rather change them, so they all have a nice and consistent strike to them.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4901 Posts |
1st...regarding the statement that ER/FS have no value...that is not true. Collectors DO pay more for that label...it really doesn't matter that YOU think it has no value. Others will pay for it...it just has no value to YOU The mistake comes when a person tries to project their beliefs as fact (talking about coins here). You think grading coins is stupid, others collect only high graded coins. ER/FS is dumb but others will pay a premium for it. 2nd..."special labels are bogus"...perfect example..how about a couple of 2006 W ASEs graded 70 by NGC and PCGS...identical coins...no way to tell them apart..one has a 20th Annie label on it and the other doesn't...again same exact coin. Regular label: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-W-AMER...em3a78c8c16320th Annie Set label http://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-W-BURN...em337af1d6e4PCGS: Regular label: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-W-Silv...em4169b1b85320th Annie Set FS label: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-W-1-20...em2a20ba7a96No value? Some would disagree.... but you are free to believe and collect what you want but they do have value For reference the OGP 2006 W sells for around $70 Edited by Foxwoods Man
08/29/2012 1:42 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1027 Posts |
LXShutter, I take coins out of their slabs because I like my collection raw. I like to handle, view and photograph my coins without any intervening media like the plastic of a slab or even a flip. I store my coins in PVC free flips, hard capsules, or mint lenses, all of which allow me to take the coins out for inspection and enjoyment. For the AtBs once removed from their slabs, I would have capsules ready to store them in. It is just the way I like my coins.
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Clair defenity understand you like them raw. I would say though if you got a graded puck with that massive surface I'm not sure you could get it out unharmed.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1027 Posts |
I have developed techniques that work very well. It is actually easier on the large holder because there is more space between the coin and the seal. Silver Eagles require the most care because that space is so small.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2764 Posts |
Regarding to Clair talking about taking the ATB out of slab.... I just tried to unslab some of my ATB from the PCGS holder.... I just use a hard blade knife and take about 10mins of careful work to take out one coin (no harm to the coin & still retain the form of the slab).... just go along the seamline (on the side of the thin edge).... the two parts slab is not completely sealed (glue/solder/melt together) there are 3 spots on the long edge and 2 spots on the short edge.... however the two parts slab are pretty tightly-fit, kind of like those air-tite capsule. I start from the corner edge and try to get the blade in between to the point that the two parts are separated and then slowly move along the edge.... If you just want to get the coin out a don't want/need to preserve the slab then it would be a lot simpler and quicker. I did punctured my left thumb with a big cut on the second coin when I tried to push the knife too hard when it was not engaged in between the two parts and it slide/slip off the slab ..... also some slabs are just harder to crack then other, despite same design/size. Good luck, have fun, and don't hurt yourself like me...... hahaha |
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New Member
United States
2 Posts |
Hello everyone, I have been lurking for a while on this thread and I was hoping to tap into your expertise. My boss at work, based on a tip from a friend, ordered 100 of the ASE Reverse Proof Sets. Seriously. 100. They were ordered right before the deadline and he has given me the task of figuring out what to do with them. I guess they won't be shipped until October and from reading all of these posts my best advice to him would be to just cancel the order and not tempt fate, but that won't be an acceptable answer. If you were in my shoes, what would you do? Is there a dealer out there that would want to buy 100 sets unopened from the mint? He seems to think he is going to make a fortune, but I just don't see it. Any ideas? Thanks! |
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Valued Member
 United States
301 Posts |
Fredmertz  He would have been better off ordering 100 sets on the very first day, quickly get them graded, and sell the PF70 sets obtained for a quick profit. Now that more sets are on the market (with more yet on the way) prices will start heading down. I think there's still money to be made in PF70 sets, just not as much. You are right, he will not make a fortune. Welcome to the boards! Edited by Mach1
08/29/2012 7:35 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1027 Posts |
You should take the $15,000 and buy 20 to 30 (depending on the price you get) unopened 2011 five coin sets and have them graded at PCGS with FS labels. Then sell the unique coins and give your boss the money and the 60 to 90 slabbed non-unique coins. The percentage of 70s in those sets was much higher but the population is smaller and they are worth as much as the 70s from the 2012 set.
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New Member
United States
35 Posts |
Peace brothers. As the Isley Brothers said "It's yo thing, do what you wanna do."
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote:
Any ideas? Figure out a way to not be his go to person on this one  In all seriousness with the QC issues I dont see him making a fortune and would advise him a large number of them will probably need to be sent back after looking at them. With the current 70 ratios I am not even sure it would be worth wild to send them all in for grading. I havent done the math but between the costs it seems like a lot of effort for a slim profit margin and a lot of work selling if a profit at all. The best bet may be to try and have some buyers lined up for some right off the bat but unfortunately I just do not see anyway when its said and done the profit will be worth the time and effort of selling 100 sets. With such a large order too his market will be very very limited if he is looking to make 1 single sale and be done with them And of course |
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Valued Member
United States
223 Posts |
100 sets, wow.
Personally with the quality issues I would hit the cancel order button as quickly as possible.
Then put that money into a few 69 & 70 sets... There always those cute little Panda's..
Edit:
If your boss has any doubts on your suggestion have him read all 72 pages of this Thread... His tip wasn't so good..
Edited by Landude
08/29/2012 9:24 pm
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New Member
United States
2 Posts |
Thanks for the thoughts, folks. I was wondering how easy it would be for a non-collector (or at least not in a long time) to look at a set and tell if it has a shot to be a 70?
All he kept saying over and over was, "it's a free look, a free look!". To which I replied (to myself), "than it's probably not a great deal...."
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote:
I was wondering how easy it would be for a non-collector (or at least not in a long time) to look at a set and tell if it has a shot to be a 70? To tell if it has a shot it wouldnt be too bad as long as there were no marks. To actually get 70s even people that do it every day cant get 70s everytime. And your right, if it was that easy everyone would do it. Basically just look and see if theyre clean and have no visible imperfections, that said most will still be 69s unfortunately. Is he planning to get them graded too? Even with bulk pricings thats like another 2300 with shipping in costs. And even if they all came back 70s if he listed them all for sale at once he would temporarily crash the market and not see full prices on any of them from putting to much out at 1 time Edited by basebal21
08/29/2012 10:08 pm
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Valued Member
United States
102 Posts |
Quote:
2nd..."special labels are bogus"...perfect example..how about a couple of 2006 W ASEs graded 70 by NGC and PCGS...identical coins...no way to tell them apart..one has a 20th Annie label on it and the other doesn't...again same exact coin. That's not what most people would understand as special labels. That's pedigree. It says that this particular coin came from a specific set. I'm pretty sure that most would agree that it has specific value. It would also apply to 2011 ASE set and 2012 ASE SF set and (probably) 2012 ASE coin and currency set, and 2000 Millennium set and many more. OTOH, This year NGC certified 3 different bullion ASE: No pedigree, minted at SF, and minted at WP. Each was made available in about a dozen different "special" labels. It's understandable why someone would want to collect all 3 pedigree variations, but why would anyone collect every permutation of a label created for specific dealers? |
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Posted 08/29/2012 12:04 pm
