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Replies: 140 / Views: 49,946 |
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Pillar of the Community
  United States
4038 Posts |
I had to re-check...and after readjusting the lighting a bit for better shadowing, I got these images at 1/200sec: Overall image with Nikon CF 5X Infinity-Corrected Objective on EL-Nikkor 150mm tube lens, resized 1/4X  Detail image from above, cropped 1/2x, resized 1/2x 
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Valued Member
United States
184 Posts |
wow talk about close uh? I need to get something like this. My digital camera sucks when it comes to pictures
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Once you've seen a few images at this magnification, you can conclusively determine if a coin has been mechanically cleaned, even very carefully. A dip is pretty easy to spot, as well. See how rough the fields of a coin actually are? That goes away instantly the minute a tool is applied to the surface of a coin. Dipping changes the colors on the surface - it requires a bit of experience to see the signs, but they're there.
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Pillar of the Community
  United States
4038 Posts |
You can also tell my environment is pretty dusty! That white dust on the surface is from kleenex, my wife and I have both had colds recently and the kleenex dust gets all over everything!
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Yeah, I'm thinking a little Pyrex dish for pre-imaging acetone rinse is in order for me.  OK, next question. Is there anything pre-existing out there in terms of a finely-adjustable movable stage for the X-Y axis, or will I have to build my own?
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Pillar of the Community
  United States
4038 Posts |
There are lots of XY stages out there, but you will very quickly realize you not only need X and Y but also Theta. I do as much adjustment of the angle of my coin to be imaged as I do position. This can be helped by using a bellows with a camera rotation mechanism such as Pentax Auto Bellows (M42) or Vivitar Bellows (T-mount) but is not easily accomplished with any of the Nikon bellows since they have fixed 0-deg and 90-deg stops. Also, if you are imaging a slabbed coin, the XY Stages are fine, but if the coin is raw I'd not want those spring-loaded metal clips touching it, which means some modifications would be needed. I've never found a strong enough need for the XY stage to overcome the difficulties, but I've also never gone beyond about 10X-15X magnification.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com
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Pillar of the Community
  United States
4038 Posts |
As it turns out, the 150mm EL-Nikkor used as "tube" lens or "relay" lens on bellows with 5X Nikon CF Plan objective gives perfect magnification for the Lincoln Cent "Money Shot", the shot that fills the sensor with the date and MM. Here is the money shot for the 1957-D toner that I use for most of my image comparisons. Note the dull surface finish that the heavy OBW roll toning causes. I've never seen this before in this much detail. I really love this combination of lenses! 1957-D OBW-Toned Lincoln Cent, 150mm EL-Nikkor plus 5X CF Plan, 11:00 side lighting, 5-Stack 
Edited by rmpsrpms 06/13/2011 08:17 am
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Oh, that's straight money. Can you post a pic of the setup? I'm interested in a movable stage to make precise adjustments for image stitching. Anything resembling a metal clip on said stage will immediately go sleep with the fishes. 
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Pillar of the Community
  United States
4038 Posts |
Here's what it looks like. Bellows is a Pentax Auto-Bellows, M42 and the lens is mounted using a M39-M42 adapter. The Nikon objective is mounted using a M27-M52 adapter. One of the conveniences of this setup is the 150EL takes standard 52mm accessories. 
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Ah! Thank you - I didn't expect the 150EL to be such a compact lens, and it was throwing my visualization off.
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Pillar of the Community
  United States
4038 Posts |
I tried imaging a coin with a lot of luster using the Nikon 5X / Nikon 150mm, and the same coin again with as close a lighting as I could using the B&L MZ7. Here are the two images: Nikon 5X CF Plan BD Objective on 150mm EL-Nikkor on bellows:  Bausch & Lomb MonoZoom7  The Nikon 5X has a larger effective aperture and required 8 stacked images. The MZ7 required only 5 stacked images. Working distance for the Nikon 5X was only about 7mm, while for the MZ7 it is 80mm (!) which gives a lot more lighting flexibility. I have a Mitutoyo 5X MPlan APO objective that supposedly has long working distance, but am waiting for a reversing adapter to arrive. I will make the comparison again between the 3 optics when the adapter arrives. Ray
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
That's all the stronger a recommendation for the MZ7 - it's obviously the far better instrument in terms of chromatic aberration, even though its' resolution doesn't appear to be very much greater. The MZ7's color correctness shows genuine luster in areas where the Nikon/Nikon combo struggles with chroma, like on the upper surfaces of the digits.
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Pillar of the Community
  United States
4038 Posts |
For this photo, the MZ7 body was set at 5X, with 1x objective and 1.5x multiplier. So there is continuous zoom adjustment available on both high and low side, with up to 7X on high side and down to 1X on low side available, all at approx same working distance. For some reason I can not get the 1.5x multiplier to be parfocal, so some WD adjustment is needed with that combo as height is changed. On the other hand, my 3x multiplier is parfocal, so I expected the 1.5x to be as well.
I have a full set of objectives acquired over the years: 0.25X, 0.5X, 0.75X, 1X, and 2X. These are great for adjusting working distance and mag range. So with this one instrument, I have an effective mag range at the sensor from approx 1:4 up to approx 42:1 (overall range of 168 !!) though of course for a given objective and multiplier combination the range is "only" 7X. WD gets quite large with 0.5X and is massive with 0.25X objectives, but even with 2X is still workable for lighting.
I've never made the comparison of the MZ7 with low mag objectives for a full coin shot versus my "normal" setup. Maybe that's a good activity for the weekend...
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Quote: I've never made the comparison of the MZ7 with low mag objectives for a full coin shot versus my "normal" setup. Maybe that's a good activity for the weekend...
Man, if you can make an MZ7 do a full-coin image, I may have to reconsider my spirituality.  I doubt it'll match the subtle magnificence of the Apo-Rodagon, though. You've sold me there.
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Pillar of the Community
  United States
4038 Posts |
SuperDave...Well, getting the full coin image was not easy but I managed to convince the MZ7 to do it. From the images below, it is clear that the MZ7 is not optimized for ~1:1 magnification. Field flatness is not great, and since its effective aperture is pretty small, diffraction is degrading the image compared with the 75ARD1. I used a ring light for both the images to make the comparison easier. Here are the images: Bausch & Lomb MonoZoom7 at ~0.8:1 magnification at the D7000 sensor, Ring Light  Rodenstock Apo-Rodagon D M=1 at ~0.8:1 magnification at the D7000 sensor, Ring Light 
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Replies: 140 / Views: 49,946 |